TNMuscle

how well does/did it run, and are there many perf. parts that are interchangable with them and the fbodys? What is the quickest you have ever seen one run the quarter?

TNMuscle

I have searched for this by the way........

METALBEAST

iTrader: (1)

96Capricemgr has one. Knows them in and out. He should chime in soon!

TNMuscle

ok cool

LittleRedZ

iTrader: (5)

everything internal is interchangeble, everything outside the motor isnt, headers, exhaust, brakes, suspension will not bolt up to B body, only drivetrain parts. Fastest is 9.9X@137mph i belive.
b bodys are about 1000lbs heavier and that makes them about 1 sec slower in a 1/4 mile a strong running b body should see 14.8 no problem.
They also come with Iron heads instead of aluminum on fbodys/corvettes

TNMuscle

first, cant you do weight reduction to take out some of that 1000lb diff? and dont the iron headsflow better?

AdioSS

iTrader: (2)

I would direct you to www.impalassforum.com but it is down for a server upgrade at the moment. My member number on there is 8 and there are over 10,000 members now BTW

91-93 Caprices used TBI 305 and 350 motors. The most powerful was 205hp.

94-96 Caprice/Impala SS/Buick Roadmaster/Cadillac Fleetwood. used Gen2 motors. the base motor is a 265cid "L99" baby LT1. It made 200hp. Then the LT1 was optional. 350cid iron heads that flow around 230cfm, a baby 191/196@.050 111LSA .418/.430" lift cam. It was rated at 260hp and 330ft-lbs stock. They usually dyno 215-225rwhp stock. The bottom end is the same as F-body LT1s though. All had the 4L60E transmission. L99 cars had 3.23 gears and LT1 cars had 2.93s (I think) and 3.08s. Most weigh 4200-4400.

We've got a damn good ET Page that shows the details of over 300 cars.
http://dan.esteban.com/impalass/ReturnTopET.asp

Ok, some cars are listed many times, but each with a different timeslip. The list starts at 15 flat, but these cars usually run right around that bone stock. Mine went 15.2@92mph stock. Without changing the opti, plug wires, or even valve springs my car has run 12.971@102.63 with a 1.709 sixty foot time in damn good weather.

Even though these cars are heavy pigs, they do handle well. There are modifications that allow them to pull over 1g in the corners.

TNMuscle

handling isnt the most important thing to me........it is important though

Old SStroker

Here's some recent Impy engine work.

http://64.65.63.61/forums/showthread.php?t=416243

Heads on this 383 are aluminum from a Camaro.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Anything else in particular you need to know with Cheston here, myself and I am sure Buffman will pop in I am sure we can answer any questions you have.
Like was already said the bottomend is identical as is the intake, the b-body motors got a little different cam and the iron heads with most accept flow more than the 95 and earlier aluminums. This is attributed to two things one they were designed a year or two later and two the larger chamber does not shroud the valves, not a huge flow difference. The iron heads also have pressed rocker studs as opposed to the screwin of aluminum. Look at what the bolton cars have done in the link Cheston posted there are tabs on top so you can make it highlight different classes very informative site.

TNMuscle

could you pm me the parts list on that motor? I would like to know. and what about weight reduction, is there any way to lighten up the car, or is it all "dead weight" that cant be removed

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Some guys get them down to raceweights with a light driver of around 4000lbs. The link Cheston posted will help you see what they do to accomplish what weight reduction. One vendor makes aluminum bumper supports which save a lot of weight but personally no way in hell would I run one on the street, The Impala wheels are HEAVY so a lot of guys run front skinnys, pull swaybars. There is another Carbonfiber hood in the works due to the size of our hood you are looking at something like a 40lbs savings there.
Advanytages these things have at the track is they hook well even with me on street tires when I was running 14 second times most LS1 cars were looking at my tailights till past the 1/8th and we have a full frame and 8.5" axle no stiffening necessary and the 8.5" survives 10 second runs.
Mike Harris currently number 40 on the list Cheston posted went 11.8 with home ported irons on a home built 383 with a TINY Comp 501 cam. Look around that page and you will see some very fast cars running the irons, the only reason you don't see more is because people do not bother to try working with them the guys that do though get good results. So do not feel you have to buy alumuminums to get performance.

AdioSS

iTrader: (2)

TNMuscle, do you even have a car yet? I thought you were interested in the 98-99 LS1 cars, not the older heavier LT1 cars.

TNMuscle

well since I found this caprice behind my dads office he said he would give me in may for my birthday im tryin to learn some stuff before i get it.

TNMuscle

and yes i have the el camino in my sig

TNMuscle

more details in the new ls1 owners forum

nutiger

iTrader: (2)

I race my 96 Caprice LT1 and right now its down to a 13.07@102. This is achieved with just bolt ons for now. The car weighs 4200# w/driver. Some specs on the car:

stock engine w/ F-body MAF, 52M TB, 1.6RR, 160 t-stat, Accel 300+ box
stock trans
Bryan Herter OBD1 program
SLP headers
export pipes
Dynomax catback
2800 Edge TC
alum DS
3.73
SSRI CAI
275/50/15 M/T DR's
This car also has 138K original miles and the car is not stripped...yet.

TNMuscle

im not really lookin for a 10 sec beast, im lookin for somethin like a really quick 12 or a mild 11 sec car. Is that possible w/o makin the motor a 355 or a 383 ci motor?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Heads cam and spray can get you mid 11s if done well. The guys who have done it know their stuff though and someone with lesser experiance will struggle some to get there. Going fast costs money too a good heads/cam/valvetrain setup is going to start at around $2000 and that is if you reuse some stock parts. To be ready for that you are talking probably $1000 or more in intake and exhaust, $700+ in just a stall and shift kit nevermind the tranny build you should do, $700+ in gears and posi, $100+ in tuning. I should stop in case anyones wife is looking over their shoulder.

TNMuscle

lol ok, so probably h/c and spray, maybe a CAI, and what is a good exhaust for these cars?