AFR Rev Kit Warning!!
#1
AFR Rev Kit Warning!!
So my new motor starts making metal right out of the gate. I am not happy to say the least! THEN on top of that we find the metal maker to be the new AFR Rev Kit!!
Thanks to some help over on CZ28.com this was tracked down to a known issue AFR is saying does not exist. The ends of the springs were eating into both the Spring support bar AND my lifters.
To be Very clear the ONLY reason I used this kit is I have had great luck in the past with other brand kits keeping the lifters in place in the event of valve train failure. I know of a few who have had the spider fail in the last few years and did not want to join them.
SO for my efforts and extra $200 I spent for this kit I was rewarded with an engine full of aluminum at a mear 600 miles...
THANKS AFR!!
Thanks to some help over on CZ28.com this was tracked down to a known issue AFR is saying does not exist. The ends of the springs were eating into both the Spring support bar AND my lifters.
To be Very clear the ONLY reason I used this kit is I have had great luck in the past with other brand kits keeping the lifters in place in the event of valve train failure. I know of a few who have had the spider fail in the last few years and did not want to join them.
SO for my efforts and extra $200 I spent for this kit I was rewarded with an engine full of aluminum at a mear 600 miles...
THANKS AFR!!
#3
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Aggressive cams whack them (high lift?)....Atleast that's the consensous...I used one a long time ago on a mellow cam (say comp 305ish) and never had the issue. That's why Ellis and I thought it would be ok, boy we were wrong....Although, I hear other manufacturers of Rev Kits with metal shims that go over the top of the lifters work just fine.
#4
The biggest problems seem to be the springs ridding directly on the lifters and the Soft non-hardened or annodized bars. The ends of the springs are not prepped very well and have sharp ends. Those ends were making quick work of the soft aluminum bar. They were also bouncing all over the top of the Lifters. Even at the low miles I ahve on the engine(600miles two dynos pull and four 1/4 mile passes) you could see how some of the springs were tring to wedge the lifter up by getting in between the link bars and the lifters.
THis may very well be just a issue with extreme cams and cars...but do you REALLY want to take a chance on loosing a huge investment like your new engine?
THis may very well be just a issue with extreme cams and cars...but do you REALLY want to take a chance on loosing a huge investment like your new engine?
#5
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iTrader: (4)
Wow! This is the first I have heard of this. I used one for years with no problem. The last cam I used for a full season was a 249/252 610/625 108ls which is a BIG hydraulic cam. Had no issues at all. AFR should look at the quality of the new ones compared to the ones they built 3-4 years ago. Maybe they are not totally finishing the product.
#7
I just bought a pair Of AFR's with the rev kit 195 CC w/ 64CC Chambers (Competition package) My cam is a Comp Cam 510/520 @.50 230 236 112 LSA Do you think I will have those problems?
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#8
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Originally Posted by streetwarrior96
I just bought a pair Of AFR's with the rev kit 195 CC w/ 64CC Chambers (Competition package) My cam is a Comp Cam 510/520 @.50 230 236 112 LSA Do you think I will have those problems?
Well with what people are saying, you might wana not use the REV KIT.
#9
HERE at CZ28.com is where I found the information that guided to find my metal maker..
After several E-mails I learned alot on the issue
BTW we have not had many issues with there heads
After several E-mails I learned alot on the issue
BTW we have not had many issues with there heads
#14
I detailed my Hydra-Rev springs (deburr, round the edges, etc.) before I used it and have had Zero problems. Takes about 1 hour to do em and clean em. I do the same for my valvesprings. Just good assembly practice.
You also have to make sure that the AFR aluminum plates sit exactly where they should. I put on a pair of GMPP Fastburn heads, and had to grind the AFR plates to deal with a little nub on the heads.
Typical custom built motor: 'A' fits with 'B', 'B' fits with 'C', but 'A' does not fit with 'C', until you make it right. I've seen a lot of so-called 'expert' shops just slap stuff together without checking everything.
Trust but verify!
Jim
You also have to make sure that the AFR aluminum plates sit exactly where they should. I put on a pair of GMPP Fastburn heads, and had to grind the AFR plates to deal with a little nub on the heads.
Typical custom built motor: 'A' fits with 'B', 'B' fits with 'C', but 'A' does not fit with 'C', until you make it right. I've seen a lot of so-called 'expert' shops just slap stuff together without checking everything.
Trust but verify!
Jim
#15
with the right valvesprings a rev kit is useless get some tool room h-11 springs in the specs you need and you will never have a problem bret bauer got me a deal on some that were $600 but i got a big discount
#16
Originally Posted by DeltaT
I detailed my Hydra-Rev springs (deburr, round the edges, etc.) before I used it and have had Zero problems. Takes about 1 hour to do em and clean em. I do the same for my valvesprings. Just good assembly practice.
You also have to make sure that the AFR aluminum plates sit exactly where they should. I put on a pair of GMPP Fastburn heads, and had to grind the AFR plates to deal with a little nub on the heads.
Typical custom built motor: 'A' fits with 'B', 'B' fits with 'C', but 'A' does not fit with 'C', until you make it right. I've seen a lot of so-called 'expert' shops just slap stuff together without checking everything.
Trust but verify!
Jim
You also have to make sure that the AFR aluminum plates sit exactly where they should. I put on a pair of GMPP Fastburn heads, and had to grind the AFR plates to deal with a little nub on the heads.
Typical custom built motor: 'A' fits with 'B', 'B' fits with 'C', but 'A' does not fit with 'C', until you make it right. I've seen a lot of so-called 'expert' shops just slap stuff together without checking everything.
Trust but verify!
Jim
I am glad they are working for some people. Maybe it is some thing new.
I am sure it is a freak of nature that only happens to certain people.
No I did not detail the springs...I DID how ever ask about it when I bought the kit and I was told not to and that it would void any warranty...which there is none of any way
Even if the springs had been smooth as glass the way they sit on the lifter seems like it would be a a problem. I did not like it and called AFR back when i installed the kit and was told my fears were unfounded and they had never had ANY problems with this setupo. Then I find out there are problems.
I am just one of the problems I guess
I realize I am an Idiot and have NO idea what I am doing. I guess I will have to live with that and Crappy parts
#17
Originally Posted by amean94ta
with the right valvesprings a rev kit is useless get some tool room h-11 springs in the specs you need and you will never have a problem bret bauer got me a deal on some that were $600 but i got a big discount
Re read the post
#19
Originally Posted by amean94ta
I did sorry you got screwed but if you had the right springs you would not need the rev kit in the firstplace
OK ONE last time.
We used the kit as a SAFETY DEVICE!
In case of a valve train or "spider" failure, like many have experianced in the last few years, it would keep the lifters ON the lobes and not twisted in the bores ANY idea what happen when a roller lifter twists in its bore at say 7,200 RPM? This kit was in NO way used as a valve spring crutch. the valves springs are perfectly sound to the 7,200 shift point and beyond.
Call brett and Ask him about this car. Bret was very key in this build up
SO if you re-read the post you will see that