LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 removal

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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Default LT1 removal

Im helping a buddy of mine take his LT1 out the bottom of his car. Every other time it has gone out the top. I was just wondering if anyone had a web site that maybe went through the process. I have searched but came up with nothin.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/Hea...ineRemoval.htm
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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Jeff95TA’s 1995 Pontiac Trans Am Engine Removal - September 2005

= picture

= part number

(drawer #) = location of parts in bin


remove hood (drawer #1)
remove strut tower brace
disconnect battery
remove front air dam (drawer #1)
drain coolant
remove radiator cap; open bleed screws ; open sill ****
remove catalytic converter: two front nuts (leave on y-pipe studs); loosen clamp
two rear nuts/washers (leave on exhaust pipe)
remove y-pipe (drawer #2)
remove block plug (move mount bolt to get to plug; replace nut) (drawer #2)
disconnect knock sensor wire & remove knock sensor (drawer #2)
remove intake elbow, MAF, CAI ,
unplug IAT
disconnect Optispark air
unplug MAF
disconnect secondary air injection hose from CAI
remove front sway bar bolts/screws
driver side - plate over one bolt must be removed ; 2 screws & 1 nut; left front is stud that holds plate (drawer #3)
passenger side (drawer #3)
remove serpentine belt
discharge A/C; disconnect A/C hose (pg. 1B-3, item #7) from condenser & compressor (pg. 1B-3, bolt item #28) (drawer #4)
disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines
one at radiator
other on line (hose clamp)
remove lower radiator hose from radiator & water pump
remove upper radiator hose from water pump
remove heater outlet hose from water pump
remove heater inlet hose from water pump
remove bypass hose from radiator & water pump
remove electrical grounds from right side of engine block (drawer #5)
remove shift linkage from transmission
remove bracket (2 bolts) - put back on pan
remove cable from lever assembly
remove torque arm
support rear end & remove bolts from rear (put back in place)
loosen 2 mount bolts
match mark driveshaft to yoke & remove (have to remove driveshaft safety loop - drawer #5); put caps & bolts back on yoke
remove intermediate steering shaft
remove clamp & move boot
remove bolt from gear assembly (drawer #6)
remove shaft from gear assembly
remove boot
remove shaft assembly shield
remove bolt from shaft assembly (drawer #6)
remove shaft assembly
remove two ground straps & screw from driver side frame rail (drawer #6)
disconnect electrical connectors for front wheel speed sensors 5E1-178 (leave attached at wheel)
disconnect on frame rails (driver) & (passenger)
disconnect fuel lines from fuel rail
loosen filler cap
relieve pressure at fuel pressure connection
disconnect fuel lines
remove from fuel line hold-down ring
disconnect vacuum line that runs in fuel line loom
remove accelerator control/cruise control servo cable adjuster assembly
remove cover
remove 2 nuts on manifold (drawer #7)
rear nut holds a bracket with a hold-down ring for throttle cable
disconnect throttle cable
remove cover nut & cover (drawer #7)
remove cable from throttle body & bracket
note that throttle cable routes under wiring harness
disconnect brake booster vacuum hose from intake manifold
disconnect coolant air bleed pipe hose from radiator
disconnect A/C hose from expansion valve ; plug with plastic bag & tape; note wiring zip tie, plastic clip (drawer #8), & plastic strap
disconnect A/C lines from dehydrator & remove (have to loosen screw on clamp)
remove power steering reservoir screw & retainer (drawer #8); reposition reservoir
remove brake valve assembly, hydraulic modulator/motor pack, & TCS valve assembly (also replacing master cylinder); 12mm lines
remove fluid from master cylinder
disconnect front & rear brake combination valve pipe assemblies @ valve & master cylinder (items 31 & 32 on fig. 10, pg. 5-15)
remove master cylinder (2 nuts - drawer #8)
disconnect 4 electrical connectors ; has a plastic retainer (drawer #8)
disconnect left & right front brake pipes (items 34 & 35 on fig. 10) from valve assembly
disconnect left & right rear brake pipes (items 103 & 102 on fig. 10)
remove heat shield - 2 nuts & 1 screw (drawer #9) - one nut by #1 header
- one screw midway
- one nut at bottom
remove brake pipe clip (breaks easily) (item 38 on fig. 10): one screw/stud (item 42 on fig. 10) (same one heat shield screw attaches to) (drawer #9)
remove traction control brake pressure modulator valve pipe
remove valve assembly bolt
remove valve assembly (slide unit to front to disengage tab)
disconnect wiring harness from traction control valve assembly
remove 4 bolts (2 front & 2 rear) holding traction control valve assembly/bracket (drawer #10); drop unit out bottom
reposition traction control throttle cable to clear brake lines
- runs over rear brake pipes
- runs past left side of booster & behind
disconnect wiring harness on A.I.R. pump (runs over to main harness on left)
remove right-hand body pillar trim panel assembly (drawer #11) - 4 screws on sill trim piece
- 1 screw on speaker pod
- 2 plastic pins on cover & metal clip
disconnect three engine wiring harnesses (blue, black, & white) (note the orange retainers on blue & white connectors)
disconnect evaporator temperature sensor connector
wiring harness is routed through firewall
disconnect forward lamp wiring harness connectors
remove two vacuum lines - is attached to the harness (sits under vacuum connector in clip)
- is in the way of the harness
disconnect A/C refrigerant pressure sensor connector
remove PCM - 2 screws (drawer #2)
remove other A/C line on expansion valve
unclip wiring harness hold-downs (closest to firewall penetration) (below expansion valve, on A/C lines)
remove grommet, pull harness thru firewall, place on engine
disconnect positive lead on alternator (leave nut on alternator)
remove zip tie from negative wire on wiring harness
disconnect battery positive lead at junction block (remove zip tie)
disconnect battery negative lead at mounting stud
pull cables out bottom
drain transmission fluid
remove front wheels
place rear wheels on set of old wheels and place jack stands under frame rails
place straps around lower control arm and disconnect struts from strut tower (Torx bolts are on driver’s side) (drawer #13)
place jack under K-member and remove slack
place jack under transmission cross member, remove slack, and remove 4 cross member bolts (drawer #14)
place dolly under transmission pan
remove 6 K-member bolts (short bolt is furthest to rear) (drawer #15)
place another strap to hold steering knuckle
lower jacks until transmission is on dolly
put jack under transmission tail & remove dolly
remove front brake pipe clip (drawer #15)
lower both jacks (front jack went all the way down); transmission jack was still raised a little
attach strut tower brace with 3/8” x 1.5” Grade 5 bolts & nuts
lift body with chain and engine hoist on strut tower brace
when high enough put jack stands/wood risers under frame and lower car
remove engine hoist
wheel engine/transmission out
attach engine hoist to strut tower brace and put car lower on jack stands
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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I have the original document and a picture document I could email you.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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I really appreciate it man thats a great site.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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My email is wwooley22@netzero.com
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 01:13 PM
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**** that's alot of steps... When I did mine out the bottom, it didn't seem like that much.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jwatson
Went to go send you an email, and the Picture document is 11.2 megabytes, hotmail only allows 10MB attachments
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
**** that's alot of steps... When I did mine out the bottom, it didn't seem like that much.
Yeah listing all those steps make it seem a hell of a lot harder then it really is.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Dont worry bout tryin to email it man I really appreciate it though. It does look like alot of steps but I hear its alot better than wrestlin it out the top.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jwatson
Dont worry bout tryin to email it man I really appreciate it though. It does look like alot of steps but I hear its alot better than wrestlin it out the top.
I have done both, and would have to say out the bottom would be the way to go.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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From the top with a Happy Hooker, take hood off, disconnect everything and pull it out.
No need to have the car so far up in the air in an unsafe position.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 03:35 AM
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from what i have seen people just put it in the air to undo **** underneath then on the ground and lift it up by the tower brace and roll it out and swap
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