Optispark Help
Optispark Help How are you supposed to line this thing up I did a cam swap on my 94 and it wount start . I think I have the opti misagiled there seemed to be notch so I thought it would only go in one way am I wrong
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Before you go tearing into everything, I'd triple-check your plug wires. Not only make sure they are on the right cylinder, but that they 'snap' onto the opti/spark plug terminals.
1) -When you installed the Optispark, did it sit flush on the timing cover before you put the bolts in, or did you have to pull it on with the bolts? [It should sit flush without force.]
2) When you reinstalled the timing set, were you absolutely positive that the dots on the cam/crank gears were lined up? Is it possible that you installed it a tooth off?
3) How exactly did you adjust valve lash? How much preload did you use?
Theoretically, neither of the two Optispark designs are supposedly capable of indexing incorrectly (keyed shaft on the type-1, only one notch large enough on the type-2), yet many people have managed to get them misaligned.
1) -When you installed the Optispark, did it sit flush on the timing cover before you put the bolts in, or did you have to pull it on with the bolts? [It should sit flush without force.]
2) When you reinstalled the timing set, were you absolutely positive that the dots on the cam/crank gears were lined up? Is it possible that you installed it a tooth off?
3) How exactly did you adjust valve lash? How much preload did you use?
Theoretically, neither of the two Optispark designs are supposedly capable of indexing incorrectly (keyed shaft on the type-1, only one notch large enough on the type-2), yet many people have managed to get them misaligned.
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
yet many people have managed to get them misaligned.
I helped my bud replace his Opti on his 95', and we needed a book, two internet articles and some advice before we got it right.
The teeth and alignment holes have to be set perfectly.
The laser beam the opti gives off is very accurate and works very well, but the slighest miscalculation can lead to a **** load of problems.
Wierd idling, misfires, not all cylinders firing, etc..
Its really quite a pain in the ***, and something you want/have to do right the first time.
[QUOTE=Alex94TAGT]Before you go tearing into everything, I'd triple-check your plug wires. Not only make sure they are on the right cylinder, but that they 'snap' onto the opti/spark plug terminals.
I just finished that all seems good
1) -When you installed the Optispark, did it sit flush on the timing cover before you put the bolts in, or did you have to pull it on with the bolts? [It should sit flush without force.]
Yes it sat flush no force needed
2) When you reinstalled the timing set, were you absolutely positive that the dots on the cam/crank gears were lined up? Is it possible that you installed it a tooth off?
I line them up rotated it twice and checked again and were right on
3) How exactly did you adjust valve lash? How much preload did you use?
I didn't I was going to do it when the car was running. I set the pushrods just touching the lifters . Otherwise they would colapes the lifter .
Thank you for the info it is good stuff any other ideas
I just finished that all seems good
1) -When you installed the Optispark, did it sit flush on the timing cover before you put the bolts in, or did you have to pull it on with the bolts? [It should sit flush without force.]
Yes it sat flush no force needed
2) When you reinstalled the timing set, were you absolutely positive that the dots on the cam/crank gears were lined up? Is it possible that you installed it a tooth off?
I line them up rotated it twice and checked again and were right on
3) How exactly did you adjust valve lash? How much preload did you use?
I didn't I was going to do it when the car was running. I set the pushrods just touching the lifters . Otherwise they would colapes the lifter .
Thank you for the info it is good stuff any other ideas
Also since I have the valve covers off to adust the valves and I am waiting for the air pipe provitions I couldn't get out of the manfolds the car sputers and backfires out of the open holes in the headers it dosen't seem to be getting spark . Do you think the opti took a crap
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
We just did and optispark on a 97 and after the install it ran real rough and misfired. We also thought we misaligned the opti and took it off again. I our case the plug wires were shot, they had no visible exterior damage.
Even with two plug wires on wrong it should start.
Any ground wires off?
Opti harness connector condition?
It was a know good Opti before the cam swap?
Good luck
Even with two plug wires on wrong it should start.
Any ground wires off?
Opti harness connector condition?
It was a know good Opti before the cam swap?
Good luck
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Well, it sounds like the timing set and Optispark were installed correctly. If there's a problem with the optispark, it must have just been coincidence. Don't suppose you have access to a DTC scan tool?
Please don't take this as an insult, but in the interest of troubleshooting, I'll have to assume this is your first time performing a cam swap / adjusting lash. You could very well know more about it than I do, but just to double-check:
1) What kind of camshaft are you running?
2) When you did this pre-adjustment, did you do all cylinders at once, or did you find #1 TDC and adjust each cylinder from there (turning the crank 90-degrees for each cylinder, following the firing order)? Or, did you use the "adjust all rockers at two crank intervals" method?
I'm wondering if the valve lash adjustment is just so outta whack that the car can't start (valves not fully opening/closing). I always adjusted my hydraulic lifters with the car off -- just have to be very careful to feel for the lifter's plunger as you adjust. My hearing is so bad that I couldn't adjust with the car running even if I wanted to.
Just a thought. Naturally, if you can check for any DTC's, that might point us in the right direction (optispark codes, etc).
Originally Posted by CamaroSS19
Me: How exactly did you adjust valve lash? How much preload did you use?
You: I didn't I was going to do it when the car was running. I set the pushrods just touching the lifters . Otherwise they would colapes the lifter .
You: I didn't I was going to do it when the car was running. I set the pushrods just touching the lifters . Otherwise they would colapes the lifter .
1) What kind of camshaft are you running?
2) When you did this pre-adjustment, did you do all cylinders at once, or did you find #1 TDC and adjust each cylinder from there (turning the crank 90-degrees for each cylinder, following the firing order)? Or, did you use the "adjust all rockers at two crank intervals" method?
I'm wondering if the valve lash adjustment is just so outta whack that the car can't start (valves not fully opening/closing). I always adjusted my hydraulic lifters with the car off -- just have to be very careful to feel for the lifter's plunger as you adjust. My hearing is so bad that I couldn't adjust with the car running even if I wanted to.
Just a thought. Naturally, if you can check for any DTC's, that might point us in the right direction (optispark codes, etc).
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Verdad Gallardo I am running a mild com cam
I tryied the 2 crank intervals and it wase't right with the cam so I redid it at top dead center of each cylinder . I thought the same thing but I can see the valves opening and closing .
I will try and check codes tommarow .
I am also going to change the wires tommarow as they are original with 130k and I was definetly banging them around .
There is no way I could have installed the opti 180 off
Thaks for the help no offence taken thanks for the info
I tryied the 2 crank intervals and it wase't right with the cam so I redid it at top dead center of each cylinder . I thought the same thing but I can see the valves opening and closing .
I will try and check codes tommarow .
I am also going to change the wires tommarow as they are original with 130k and I was definetly banging them around .
There is no way I could have installed the opti 180 off
Thaks for the help no offence taken thanks for the info
Well I ohme the plug wires were way out of spec so replaced them still no spark I get a weak spark without the resistor tester I have . I tested the coil the spark is weak out of the coil the coil didn't fix that either I am getting a ignition control modual to see if that helps any other ideas
I replaced the modual did nothing I have weak spark coming off the coil but it will not jump the test plug that simulate the resistance from compresion .
I checked compresion is at 180
I am all out of ideas
I checked compresion is at 180
I am all out of ideas
