98vortecbw

ok...well im 17 yrs. old and ive never done headers before. i have a 96 camaro w/ lt1 and i am about to buy the dynatech long tubes. im tired of paying ppl to do this stuff when i know i can do it. i just need to know the basics like 1) do you do it from the top or bottom? 2) do i have to remove anything to get them in? any help would be appreciated.

DropTopFireChKn

well i installed shorties and to take out the passenger side header i removed the bracket that holds the ac, powersteering and alternator, it's a pia... that one came out from the top but we installed it from the bottom, which was a also a pain in the ***... the driver side came out from the top as well and all i removed was the steering knuckle and it went in from the top pretty easy... all in all it took about a good 12-14 hours of actually working but it was also like the first tme i did anything like that... be careful not to break any sparkplugs (btw it's a really good time to change them) and do not use copper gaskets on aluminum heads!! big headache! and another thing to be careful about is not to strip the holes, jus be patient and take ur time, u learn a lot about your after be under there so long... have fun and let me know how it go's lol

Daez

***I might have not done this the right way, or the best way, so I am not guranteeing this is how to do it, just how I did it, and it worked fine for my car, no flaming my newbieness***

Long tube header installs are a bit different that shorties(I can't speak of how much cuz I have only done long tube's, but I've heard long tubes are alot harder). I installed long tubes with a friend(he was alot better, and did more of the work), and I would suggest having an assistant to help guide the headers from the top, while you are underneath.

I would strongly suggest getting a lift.. and I wouldn't even try until you can get the middle(by the seats) about 2-3 feet off the ground(higher than jackstands that I used heh.. had to stack 8 bricks under the car).

For the drivers side you can pull it out without even having to take anything off, but when you put the long tubes in you'll need to take apart the steering knuckle, go from underneath, have someone help guide. I also had to take out my oil filter.

For the passengers side I had to take off the alternator bracket(this was very easy for me). I installed from underneath, and had to remove the starter, and carefully bend a silver bracket looking line(don't know know what it was because I suck). I removed all my EGR **** also. I had to jack the engine up a bit on both sides, I also had to unbolt the K-member on both sides. To unbolt the K-member, I jacked it up, then unbolted, then slowly lowered it back down, and it made a decent opening.

Some of these things might have only been neccesary because I could not get my car high enough for a good angle to stick the tubes in. I also used a allen styled bolts for easier tightening access. Also.. make sure you put your wires in the right spot, and don't let em touch those headers =D. I love the **** out of my long tubes, wouldn't have it any other way.

P.S. prepare to be pissed.

redhot lt-1

iTrader: (2)

how much are they wanting to charge tou for the install i had a local shop for $350.00 and they installed my slp exhaust also for $100.00 and it took only 2 days maybe 3 but no more than that

DropTopFireChKn

"redhot lt-1 how much are they wanting to charge tou for the install i had a local shop for $350.00 and they installed my slp exhaust also for $100.00 and it took only 2 days maybe 3 but no more than that"

damn that's a good price, an exhaust shop quoted me 500 and i thought that was a shitty price, until after i did them and then i thought 500 would be rippin my mechanic off ... one thing i forgot to mention is don't take the header off the heads before you undo your y-pipe!! trust me!! i made that mistake and lets jus say that after a metal grinder and $150 later i ended up with a custom y-pipe..

98vortecbw

awesome... thanks alot for the help guys!

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

The Dynatech long tube headers are not a street header... unless I am aware that Dynatech is making a street header again under their name. It has a slip on collector and it will leak. If you are picking up a set of used FLP headers (Dynatech manufactured them for FLP), then you'll be fine. My car was the guineapig for the LT1 headers for FLP/Dynatech. Just make sure to change your plugs and wires at the same time. It'll be much easier when everything is removed. Also... use the fiber gasket along with some High Temp Silcone on the header gasket. Tighten the header bolts from the inside out. Make sure to check the header bolts after you run the car for the first time (make sure to let the engine cool off as you don't want to burn yourself or strip the threads in the head). FYI... just because the header tubes are cool, doesn't mean that the heads are cool yet. You'll have to remove the dipstick tube as well. With the FLP headers, you will not have to jack up the engine or loosen the k-member. The headers go in from the bottom. Here's a tip. Install the header by barely threading the very outside header bolts... the header will just hang there. Take the header gasket and cut the bolt hole opening at the other part of the gasket so that the gasket will slip over the 2 outer bolts holding the header on. Now the gasket will line up with the head and the header. This makes the gasket installation much easier especially when you have High Temp Silcone on the gasket (just a thin layer will do). Then just install the rest of the bolts and tighten from the inside out.

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

drivers side is pretty easy, just take the old manifold off, then you will have to take off the rack and pinion and oil filter to install the header, on the pass side you will have to take off the alternator to get the old manifold off, then you will have to jack up the car way high, and slide it right in.

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

Rack and pinion? Oil filter? Huh? What headers did you install that needed this. If he is installing FLP/Dynatech headers, that won't be needed.

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

the pacesetters that i put on needed them to be removed.

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

I know that the removal of the oil filter helps with the Pacesetters, but the rack. I don't think that is necessary.

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

What kind of headers are you getting?

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

well its pretty common to have to remove it for a pacesetter install, considering you cant get the header in with the steering rod in place.

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

"Steering rod" is totally different than what you mentioned earlier... "the rack and pinion".

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

haha, yeah, sorry brain fart.

Camaro94SS

Took out the oil filter and thats it....installed pacesetter LTs about month ago....never even touched the steering...but i also had my friends dad who is a full blown mechanic

I used stage 8 locking bolts....we had to modify the clips on them because the header tubing is SO close to the hole that my bolts barely fit....

Ginz Ls1

iTrader: (2)

i have a set of those exact Dynatech headers and yes they are an off road header but i drive them on the street and it worked well.

As for putting them in i was dropping in a new motor so it will alittle easier for me but to save you a **** load of time if your using a floor jack and jack stands make sure that you replace the starter,oil filter, plug and wires they are the hardest things to get to. Also the best thing is have a guy under the car and the guy tighting the headers onto the engine it works alot easier, and last but not least get the wire organzer piece that sets your wires on top of the header because stock wires and even up graded ones will burn from that preticlar header.

Have fun they are a pain in the @$$

SShawn

iTrader: (6)

for the pacesetter i also had to remove the seering u joint, but definately not the rack.i also had to jack the engine up to get the new ones in. if your dynatechs are anything like the pacesetters they will go in a lot easier than they come out. be carefull though of the plugs, AND the coolant temp sensor.

just have someone get you a 30 pack, and leave the better part of a day to do it, it may be a pain to do, but in the end when you fire it up itll be damn worth it.

Camaro94SS

Oh yeah....the dipstick was a bitch and i also had to remove that(and obviosuly all plugs)....if you can use a lift....highly reccomended

We ended up doing the entire job in about 7 hours....with putting an ORY, and welding a cutout into my exhaust....


LoL broke mine....had to go buy one at autozone during the install

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

The FLP headers (street version of the Dynatechs with welded on collectors) were designed on my car and I have never burned 1 wire during the 6 years that I have had the headers. Just make sure to secure the wires properly and you won't have a problem.

Remove the alternator, starter, and dipstick tube on the passenger's side. Driver's side just remove the manifold... be careful not to break the coolant gauge switch on the driver's side.
Follow the tips that I mentioned earlier and you'll be fine.