Anyone NOT running vent lines from back of head?
11-27-2006, 05:40 PM
#61
Originally Posted by asudecat
How would I be the Idiot??? Im not the one who built it. If LME say's it will work then I trust them. If it blows then I sure as hell should get it re-built for free.
I find it hard to believe that LME would build it for free if you blew it up..I know guys whose engine lost oil pressure on the dyno, NO street miles....they got NO help at all...just a little 411 for ya.
David
11-27-2006, 05:49 PM
#62
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dont remove **** if it was put on to serve a good puropse to the engine.
TB bypass is different, but the vent/cooling lines back there do their jobs. removing it will add no horsepower, nor will it de clutter the engine bay as it isnt seen. they were put on for a reason and you shouldnt mess with it.
TB bypass is different, but the vent/cooling lines back there do their jobs. removing it will add no horsepower, nor will it de clutter the engine bay as it isnt seen. they were put on for a reason and you shouldnt mess with it.
11-27-2006, 06:03 PM
#63
All you guys attacking me can go F*ck yourself.
I'm simply telling my situation on what MY BUILDER did and what he has told me. I didnt remove them. I didnt build the engine.
Hell I wish I had the damn lines still there.
And yea alittle 411 for yourself. If an engine builder removes something and tells you that it will be ok and it ends up blowing. I believe they are responsible. Im not talking about something stupid as losing oil pressure.
I'm simply telling my situation on what MY BUILDER did and what he has told me. I didnt remove them. I didnt build the engine.
Hell I wish I had the damn lines still there.
And yea alittle 411 for yourself. If an engine builder removes something and tells you that it will be ok and it ends up blowing. I believe they are responsible. Im not talking about something stupid as losing oil pressure.
11-27-2006, 06:06 PM
#64
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just wait and see what the engine does.
i wasnt attacking you either.
i wasnt attacking you either.
Originally Posted by asudecat
All you guys attacking me can go F*ck yourself.
I'm simply telling my situation on what MY BUILDER did and what he has told me. I didnt remove them. I didnt build the engine.
Hell I wish I had the damn lines still there.
And yea alittle 411 for yourself. If an engine builder removes something and tells you that it will be ok and it ends up blowing. I believe they are responsible. Im not talking about something stupid as losing oil pressure.
I'm simply telling my situation on what MY BUILDER did and what he has told me. I didnt remove them. I didnt build the engine.
Hell I wish I had the damn lines still there.
And yea alittle 411 for yourself. If an engine builder removes something and tells you that it will be ok and it ends up blowing. I believe they are responsible. Im not talking about something stupid as losing oil pressure.
11-28-2006, 02:05 PM
#67
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Originally Posted by 9T4Z
On a retrofit the line runs back to the radiator right under the coolant overflow hose....
gary
and yes you NEED these lines...(ask me how I know)
gary
and yes you NEED these lines...(ask me how I know)
11-28-2006, 04:25 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
What was your reason for removing it?
12-24-2006, 12:31 PM
#71
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If you want to keep it, and as long as the tanks on the sides of the rad are metal.... why not just get a fitting and tap/weld it? Cant be that hard to add a small hose hookup. I dont know from experience, just throwing an idea up that may or may not work. Any thoughts on that?
I left my vent lines with the new motor. It does flow a steady stream of coolant back to the radiator.
I had disconnected it on the old motor and ended up blowing the head gaskets or warping the heads (or both, not sure). I have no proof or reason to blame the problems totally on the vent line but, it takes up only a little bit of room so I left it on this time.
12-24-2006, 03:57 PM
#72
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The coolant crossover tube SHOULD ALWAYS be used in a reverse cooled application, especially a high HP, power adder, street application. the gas bubbles do accumulate back there and cooling to the rear cylinders will be severely affected. Long term, you run the risk of increased detonation and hot spots that eventually can hurt your motor or pop a head gasket.
I personally have my AFR 220's converted to AN fittings with each side angled up to an Earls fitting "T" then braided line running back to the radiator. Ask MADMAN what he recommends running on LT1's and his experiences if you don't take my word for it.
In this pic, you can see the line just inside the pass. side valvecover.
I personally have my AFR 220's converted to AN fittings with each side angled up to an Earls fitting "T" then braided line running back to the radiator. Ask MADMAN what he recommends running on LT1's and his experiences if you don't take my word for it.
In this pic, you can see the line just inside the pass. side valvecover.
12-24-2006, 04:33 PM
#73
Originally Posted by Turbo_6
The coolant crossover tube SHOULD ALWAYS be used in a reverse cooled application, especially a high HP, power adder, street application. the gas bubbles do accumulate back there and cooling to the rear cylinders will be severely affected. Long term, you run the risk of increased detonation and hot spots that eventually can hurt your motor or pop a head gasket.
I personally have my AFR 220's converted to AN fittings with each side angled up to an Earls fitting "T" then braided line running back to the radiator. Ask MADMAN what he recommends running on LT1's and his experiences if you don't take my word for it.
In this pic, you can see the line just inside the pass. side valvecover.
I personally have my AFR 220's converted to AN fittings with each side angled up to an Earls fitting "T" then braided line running back to the radiator. Ask MADMAN what he recommends running on LT1's and his experiences if you don't take my word for it.
In this pic, you can see the line just inside the pass. side valvecover.
WHat kind of hood do you have to run the LS1 lid setup? DId you have to lay the radiator back any further? Is your car a six speed?
David
12-24-2006, 04:53 PM
#74
If I open my radiator, I can see the head coolant return line strongly pissing. It's a good flow coming back from the heads. And it's HOT. I'd say this lil' cooling line goes a long way in keeping the rear of the heads cool. Unless there's a real reason to remove it, I'd leave it be. When I did my H/C/I work, I bought a new cooling line from GM. Came with the tube with the hose crimped on as well as new banjo bolts with the proper sealing washers. Well worth the 30 or so bucks to me.
If you've got a set of gen1 heads without the cooling holes, I'll bet it won't cause any real trama but looking at the obvious cooling abilities of the "as designed" system, you'll miss out on at least some extra cooling out back. Remember, these engines have a higher CR and keeping the heads cool is important.
If you've got a set of gen1 heads without the cooling holes, I'll bet it won't cause any real trama but looking at the obvious cooling abilities of the "as designed" system, you'll miss out on at least some extra cooling out back. Remember, these engines have a higher CR and keeping the heads cool is important.
12-25-2006, 11:49 AM
#76
Originally Posted by Turbo_6
David, radiator in stock location, just use an LS1 radiator shroud and airlid. The LT1 WS.6 hood fits with this setup without any modifications, 6spd.
Is that an LS1 radiator? How much DCR and SCR are you running? On pumpgas? I am thinking about doing this with a LT1 ws6 setup and a suncoast twin nostril hood, or a Sunoco hood and an LS1 lid. But I have a BIG Griffin radiator and custom made the radiator hold down to fit it. Also had to make custom fans and brackets to clear my heavy duty Meziere water pump, so I cant lay the rad back at all. The fans will hit the water pump. Just out of curiosity have you dynoed the car with a K&N CAI? Just to compare?
David
12-26-2006, 06:17 AM
#78
The LT1s run the coolant off the back of the heads to relieve an air pocket that always builds around 7 and 8 cylinders because of the reverse cooling. If you had a pyrometer in the headers you will see a 75-100 degree difference in exhaust temps without your coolant lines in place. On all my LT1 builds I run -6 hose from the rear ports to the radiator to cool the rear of the heads. I have seen the rear cylinders get to with in 20 degrees of the other cylinders with this modification.
12-26-2006, 10:26 AM
#79
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
The LT1s run the coolant off the back of the heads to relieve an air pocket that always builds around 7 and 8 cylinders because of the reverse cooling. If you had a pyrometer in the headers you will see a 75-100 degree difference in exhaust temps without your coolant lines in place. On all my LT1 builds I run -6 hose from the rear ports to the radiator to cool the rear of the heads. I have seen the rear cylinders get to with in 20 degrees of the other cylinders with this modification.
this is what most of us thought... nice to have a forum with reliable information. I also burned up a rear cylinder (melted piston) when my vent tubes were inadvertently blocked off.
regards and happy new year
12-26-2006, 06:37 PM
#80
I don't see why you couldn't route the line (6an line) from the back of the heads and tee it into the Drivers side waterpump hose??? That hose goes through the rad before the motor Right???
