Abdullah

iTrader: (2)

do i need yank 4400 thruster pro or less? i want to keep my stock 3.23's or if i have to have more gear i will not go more than 3.42. is that true the Nitto DR's and BFG comp TA DR's will hook better on the street than ET streets?

my mods : race ported LT1 heads 270+ cfm, CC XE224 236 112lsa cam, coated hooker LT's,3" to 3" y pipe, Borla catback (block off plate),BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, CC pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers, Moroso CAI, stock converter, stock 3.23 gears. i have just done a tune up to my car i.e. raplacing spark plugs, cleaning injectors, raplacing fuel filter. it now feels realy healthy. i havn't done any suspension mods at all. what suspension mods i will need for better traction on the street? the 1/4mile time in the sig.

Ken95Z28

iTrader: (1)

Tough call on that one, I would think the 4400 might be to much. Maybe the 3800 would be a better fit. But than again each car responds differently to a converter. Check around and see what everyone is using. I'm using a ST3500 with 3.42's and love it.

Gangly

ET Streets will hook better than the Drag Radials anytime any place(other than water). will need mroe gear than 3.23....3.42's might possibly be too small also. if you are going with such a big converter, your drivability is gonna suck so why not go with shorter gears, like 3.73's or something? if you are keeping the gears the way they are, then might want to go with a 3600 or somewhere around there, 4400 is too big i think, but thats just my opinion.

Abdullah

iTrader: (2)

Ken, did you have stock heads with the timeslip in your signnature? that is amazing for LT1 if so <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> . what suspension mods did you have on that 11 second run?

<small>[ November 09, 2002, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: Abdullah ]</small>

Patman

Keep in mind that with an OBD1 LT1 A4, they often have problems shifting when you go with a higher than 2800 stall. You may very well need an OBD2 computer first.

Nick D'Agostino

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong>Keep in mind that with an OBD1 LT1 A4, they often have problems shifting when you go with a higher than 2800 stall. You may very well need an OBD2 computer first.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Justmy personal experience, but my car shifts like a champ even under spray. It is a 97 and I actually reto-fitted it with OBD1. Reason being I own the OBD1 version of LT1 edit not the OBD2. Anyhow times are in my sig, and it was a 4200 Vigilante in there.

Ok onto Mr. Abdullah. First and foremost if you want the 4400 get a smaller gear set. Something in the way of 3.73:1 or 4.10:1, but if you want to stick with the 3.42:1 gears then I would do a 3200 stall. On your cam specs you failed to list what the lift was. If you have all of that info you can call Yank, Precision, or any of the converter company and they will tell you best converter for your combo. The folks at Precision have never once steered me wrong.

Suspension, I only have one word here, BMR!!! Maybe thats more letters than a word though <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . Either way I would set your car up with their Track Pak, but be sure to get the Pak with adjustable torque arm. The Track Pak includes Subframe connectors, Adjustable Torque Arm, Lower Control Arms, and a Drive Shaft Loop. I would also reccomend that you look at the LCA re-location brackets and a new Panhard bar.

With yoour power level and being able to hook, you should get in the low-mid 12's on motor. Its all about leaving the line, and yes ET Streets will put the beat down on a Nitto anytime, anywhere. Its all about a big smokey burnout to get the tires hot first.

Ok I hope I was of some help. Good luck with whatever you decide. Keep us posted <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />

Abdullah

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the replies. i think i will call Yank for the converter selection. i have questions regrading the suspension parts :

1- will a BMR extreme duty torque arm clear the hooker LT's Y-pipe? the y-pipe i have is the same as the modern muscle car y-pipe. although i will change later to Arizona speed and marine 1-3/4" headers due that i want to lower the car.

2- what i would binifit more for drag racing a panhard rod and LCA's with spherical ends OR panhard rod and LCA's with polyurethane bushings?

3- will KBDD SFC's clear the y-pipe i have?

4- which strut tower brace that will clear vortech aftercooler?

if the questions above satisfied i will get :

1- BMR extreme duty torque arm ( since i will stroke and supercharge my LT1)

2- BMR panhard rod and LCA's suits drag racing.

3- BMR drag race extreme duty rear sway bar.

4- BMR strut tower brace

5- 16" ET streets

6- Yank converter that suits my future mods (stroker and supercharger).

7- Kenny Brown Double Diamond subframe connectors.

what do you think?

Abdullah

iTrader: (2)

by the way, what are the advantages and disadvantages of boxed LCA's and boxed panhard rod, chromemoly LCA's and chromemoly panhard rod, tubular LCA's and tubular panhard rod?

<small>[ November 10, 2002, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: Abdullah ]</small>