synthetic vs. non synthetic
09-27-2006, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by UnitZ28
GMHigh Tech said they broke an engine in with the delo 15w40 dielse oil b/c of it's properties .02
09-27-2006, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GIZMO
That's funny. I have two cases of 0-30 Mobil 1 in front of me.
09-27-2006, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by burnzilla
"Don't let anyone tell you synthetic oil is thinner, 10W30 SAE is exactly the same weight and thickness as any synthetic 10W30. They both must pass the same tests, one is not thicker or thinner than the other. Anyone who tells you different is full of ****."
Mobil 1 10W30 is great oil for a healthy LT1.
Mobil 1 10W30 is great oil for a healthy LT1.
Originally Posted by Captainofiron
The reason behind breaking engines with Desiel engine oil is because they have additives that protect against higher temps and higher compressive stresses than conventional motor oil. Basically they have more detergents and good stuff, but I wouldnt run it regularly in a gasoline motor
There's nothing with running a diesel speced motor oil in a gas engine. UOAs show very good results.
09-27-2006, 06:32 PM
#25
dhdenny, GIZMO and Buffman are the ONLY ones supplying any good info here. Buffman provided a wonderful link to help the rest of you shed your ignorance.
Captainofiron gets an honorable mention because while I still believe he needs to do some learning his statements show some clear effort into real research a detail most of you had not even considered.
Captainofiron gets an honorable mention because while I still believe he needs to do some learning his statements show some clear effort into real research a detail most of you had not even considered.
09-27-2006, 06:39 PM
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burnnzilla M1 5w30 and 10w30 are decent choices in an LT1 but there are way better choices such as German Castrol 0w30 in terms of of wear and tear etc. You cant just recommend an oil anymore. Gotta have proof an oil is doing it's job. The oil forum is a great place to learn.
Our engines tend to love a slightly thicker oil. the previous m1 5 and 10w30 oils (SL version) was in the low 10s cst @ 100C whereas the new SM version is slightly above 11cst. Most 10w30s will have a cst of around 10.5 @ 100c
Our engines tend to love a slightly thicker oil. the previous m1 5 and 10w30 oils (SL version) was in the low 10s cst @ 100C whereas the new SM version is slightly above 11cst. Most 10w30s will have a cst of around 10.5 @ 100c
Last edited by buffman; 09-27-2006 at 06:47 PM.
09-27-2006, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by buffman
Im sorry burnzilla but that's not how it works. Oil will shear down and loose viscosity. Go do some reading on the oil boards.
The fact that synthetic is thinner is false. It has different chemical properties stemed from newer research and better technology, hence less friction.
The actual material itself... weight, thickness, etc.. is all in the same class. If you want "thinner" oil, then get 10W40.
09-27-2006, 08:06 PM
#29
10w-30 is NOT 10w-30 though that is a RANGE not an exact measurement, for a long time one of the thinnest Xw-30 oils you could find was M1 10w-30 but 0w-30 Castrol Syntec labled made in Germany is one of the thicker ones.
Far as shearing down, yes most do, but Amsoil in particular has been known to oxidize and thicken.
Synthetics have a lot of positive attributes that FEW of us ever begin to tap into, really for most of us the base oil means less than the additive package.
Far as shearing down, yes most do, but Amsoil in particular has been known to oxidize and thicken.
Synthetics have a lot of positive attributes that FEW of us ever begin to tap into, really for most of us the base oil means less than the additive package.
09-27-2006, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by burnzilla
Yes, all oil's breakdown and lose viscosity over time.
The fact that synthetic is thinner is false. It has different chemical properties stemed from newer research and better technology, hence less friction.
The actual material itself... weight, thickness, etc.. is all in the same class. If you want "thinner" oil, then get 10W40.
The fact that synthetic is thinner is false. It has different chemical properties stemed from newer research and better technology, hence less friction.
The actual material itself... weight, thickness, etc.. is all in the same class. If you want "thinner" oil, then get 10W40.
The newer M1 now has a cst of low 11s @ 100c. CG is still a 30w even though 0w30, has a cst @ 100C of 12.1. So as dwayne mentioned it's a range not an exact measurement. so comparing even the newer m1 10w30 to the 0w30 GC, it could be called a "thin" 30wt oil
Last edited by buffman; 09-27-2006 at 08:22 PM.
09-27-2006, 10:23 PM
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pretty good info here.
question i am gonna throw out there. i have some vavline 10w-30 syn, and was thinking about putting it in my 90,000 mile 95. any thoughts on that?
question i am gonna throw out there. i have some vavline 10w-30 syn, and was thinking about putting it in my 90,000 mile 95. any thoughts on that?
09-27-2006, 10:28 PM
#32
I'm no expert on this, but I will say that the lighter synthetic oils will show a real performance improvement in a N/A drag race motor. Years ago I did a back to back test in my IHRA Pure Stock LT1 Firebird. I switched from regular Castrol 20-50 and Mobil 0-30 synthetic and picked up almost a tenth in the 1/8th! I can also tell you that running Stock I have run as little as three quarts of 0-10 Royal Purple in the quarter without damaging the motor (@7500 rpm). The motor will see "0" oil pressure thru the traps and does not burn anything up. Try that with conventional oils!!
Daren
Daren
09-27-2006, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
dhdenny, GIZMO and Buffman are the ONLY ones supplying any good info here. Buffman provided a wonderful link to help the rest of you shed your ignorance.
Captainofiron gets an honorable mention because while I still believe he needs to do some learning his statements show some clear effort into real research a detail most of you had not even considered.
Captainofiron gets an honorable mention because while I still believe he needs to do some learning his statements show some clear effort into real research a detail most of you had not even considered.
Anyways I learned alot from those classes but cant really remember any of it, haha. Was nearly asleep for most with only coffee keeping me concious
Last edited by Captainofiron; 09-27-2006 at 11:42 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something
09-28-2006, 02:53 AM
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ahh.... nice to see burnzilla get owned by 2 guys, whose setups I look to for guidance. Gives me that warm and fuzzy feeling! thanx guys! I think you know who you are.
Man... this thread: I knew it would get ugly after that post about junky oil and 3,000 miles.
Ever looked at "valuecraft" oil from autozone? it says only to run it in older that 1987 engines... it's pretty much water. On the other side, ever seen STP 10w30? That stuff is as thick as 20w50 penziol. It's all a range.
Man... this thread:
I knew it would get ugly after that post about junky oil and 3,000 miles.Ever looked at "valuecraft" oil from autozone? it says only to run it in older that 1987 engines... it's pretty much water. On the other side, ever seen STP 10w30? That stuff is as thick as 20w50 penziol. It's all a range.
09-28-2006, 02:56 AM
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We need a :nutswing: smiley. He just called everyone who posted in this thread ignorant even if you had nothibg to do with the argument. How weak is that.
09-28-2006, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
We need a :nutswing: smiley. He just called everyone who posted in this thread ignorant even if you had nothibg to do with the argument. How weak is that.
09-28-2006, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MrCadillac
and did you supply any good info? uh huh... and why were you offended? didn't buffman say why to go 15w40? LT1 likes a lil thicker oil, and as an engine gets older, the clearances get looser. looser clearances mean that the oil can easier be forced out of the bearings.
09-28-2006, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MrCadillac
and did you supply any good info? uh huh... and why were you offended? didn't buffman say why to go 15w40? LT1 likes a lil thicker oil, and as an engine gets older, the clearances get looser. looser clearances mean that the oil can easier be forced out of the bearings.
