old procharger?
#1
old procharger?
Does anybody know if this is an old procharger kit or a modified procharger kit? it says procharger on the intake duct but I thought procharger intercoolers were on top of the motor not under it. Its my friends car who bought it the way it is and he doesn't know much about it. The car is a 97 z28 and he wants to sell it to me for a low price and seeing as how its got a fresh motor, full suspension upgrades and supercharger it seems like a killer deal. I just don't want to get stuck with a junk supercharger kit. The car has an oil leak from the intake (he thinks) a misfire (bad optispark probably) and supposedly overheats on long drives. Even with the problems it seems like a good deal but I'd like to get some outside opinions. any help would be much appreciated, thanks
#2
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
Originally Posted by duffman2
Does anybody know if this is an old procharger kit or a modified procharger kit? it says procharger on the intake duct but I thought procharger intercoolers were on top of the motor not under it. Its my friends car who bought it the way it is and he doesn't know much about it. The car is a 97 z28 and he wants to sell it to me for a low price and seeing as how its got a fresh motor, full suspension upgrades and supercharger it seems like a killer deal. I just don't want to get stuck with a junk supercharger kit. The car has an oil leak from the intake (he thinks) a misfire (bad optispark probably) and supposedly overheats on long drives. Even with the problems it seems like a good deal but I'd like to get some outside opinions. any help would be much appreciated, thanks
#3
I meant the intercooler or I guess aftercooler for prochargers sits on top of the motor, air to water I believe. The intercooler on this car is air to air and appears to sit behind the air dam at the bottom of the motor.
#5
The car has been sitting in basically the desert for a while, so ya its pretty damn dirty but nothing a little water and soap can't take care of. My brother is a mechanic so any problems should be easy to handle but has anyone ever seen this type of sc kit or know if its any good?
#6
-Vortech aftercoolers are Air-Water and sit up high in the engine compartment.
-ProCharger only sells Air-Water intercoolers for the all out race car crowd. None of there kits comes with one, only Air-Air.
Thats an old P600B or P1sc kit for the LT1 cars w/ the std 3core intercooler. Upgraded kits had twin coolers under the headlight areas on each side just ahead of the radiator support. Yet still horizontally mounted.
That intercooler can cool air, but not too good because of its location.
-ProCharger only sells Air-Water intercoolers for the all out race car crowd. None of there kits comes with one, only Air-Air.
Thats an old P600B or P1sc kit for the LT1 cars w/ the std 3core intercooler. Upgraded kits had twin coolers under the headlight areas on each side just ahead of the radiator support. Yet still horizontally mounted.
That intercooler can cool air, but not too good because of its location.
#7
Is it possible to upgrade to the twin intercoolers? I'm also told this supercharger does not have a self contained oil system and is oiled by the motor which doesn't really seem like it would make to much of a difference. The motor only has about 25k on it and I believe the supercharger is about the same, how long should I expect either to last at 6-7 psi?
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#8
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
Originally Posted by duffman2
Is it possible to upgrade to the twin intercoolers? I'm also told this supercharger does not have a self contained oil system and is oiled by the motor which doesn't really seem like it would make to much of a difference. The motor only has about 25k on it and I believe the supercharger is about the same, how long should I expect either to last at 6-7 psi?
When you say "fresh motor" is that just a stock rebuild or...? That would determine how long the motor will last. If it's just stock with stock compression than the motor can last as long as you don't beat on it and as long as you can keep a good tune in the car. Back in the day I popped my motor on only 6#'s of boost but it was a cold night and the air got nice and dense and I didn't adjust the tune for it when I was racing a bike.
Some of those old systems were hit or miss with the P600/P1SC so hopefully it's all good. I know some guys (Ellis ) can attest to the nightmare that they caused...
#9
thats a P600B kit, its missing the air scoop on the intercooler tho with out that its not getting any air to it to help cool, the diffrence between a self contained and a non isnt that big but with will tend to heat the air up a little more since there is hot oil in there, the self contained ones dont get as hot. but with that scoop not being there and being oil cooled Im sure the air charge temp is really hot.
#10
I have the same set up - I ended up mounting an 8 inch pro-cool fan (puller) on top of the intercooler. It pulls air through the intercooler nicely and made a big difference.
Another thing...I see it still has the stock FMU. My opinion....don't use it. Get bigger injectors, a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (Aeromotive makes a good one for the LT1), and get it professionally tuned. I did not initially.....and promptly leaned out at high RMP and blew a head gasket - lucky I did not blow the motor.
Another thing...I see it still has the stock FMU. My opinion....don't use it. Get bigger injectors, a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (Aeromotive makes a good one for the LT1), and get it professionally tuned. I did not initially.....and promptly leaned out at high RMP and blew a head gasket - lucky I did not blow the motor.
Last edited by real82it; 03-26-2007 at 06:38 PM. Reason: added info...
#11
I'm probably going to buy the car, I just have never seen that intercooler on a F-body but I also haven't had too much experience with forced induction either. I guess I also didn't really make myself clear, the stock motor overheated and blew and was replaced by a stock low mile lt1 from a wrecked car. From what I hear the motor is bone stock except for a flowmaster muffler, 170 thermo and the supercharger. I do have a '98 T56 Z28 I'm going to try to use for a trans swap and any other parts that would work better including injectors which I don't think are really much bigger. My brother also is pretty knowledgeable when it comes to tuning F bodies so that should help with getting it running properly. The intercooler scoop seems like something I could easily make out of sheet metal and I have a permacool fan laying around I could probably use also. you cant see it from the pics I posted but the motor does have a aftermarket fuel regulator (if that's what you mean by fmu) that I believe came with the supercharger kit. here's a better pic
#13
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
Originally Posted by duffman2
I do have a '98 T56 Z28 I'm going to try to use for a trans swap and any other parts that would work better including injectors which I don't think are really much bigger.
#14
Bunch of good advice above... Couple things Id like to point out though.
Like someone else said above ~ get rid of that FMU, and install at least 42# injectors.
A different pressure regulator is pointless, the stock one will do fine.
You'll need to make sure their's at least a Walbro 255lph in-tank pump in there... The inline booster pumps that come with the kits are garbage. A Racetronix twin in-tank setup would be ideal for insurance.
If its lubed with engine oil its the P600B supercharger
Unless your bro has LT1edit or TunerCats, a wideband A/F monitor and LOTS of experience with Forced Induction, I would not let him touch it.
Tuning boosted LT1's requires alot more specialized experience than just simply stating "I have lots of experience tuning F-body's".
Stock LT1 motors are fragile when playing with boost, therefore it takes extreme amounts of knowledge to properly tune one.
Basically, be careful who you allow to work on the car, as it could very easily end up costing you a motor and a huge headache.
Like someone else said above ~ get rid of that FMU, and install at least 42# injectors.
A different pressure regulator is pointless, the stock one will do fine.
You'll need to make sure their's at least a Walbro 255lph in-tank pump in there... The inline booster pumps that come with the kits are garbage. A Racetronix twin in-tank setup would be ideal for insurance.
If its lubed with engine oil its the P600B supercharger
Unless your bro has LT1edit or TunerCats, a wideband A/F monitor and LOTS of experience with Forced Induction, I would not let him touch it.
Tuning boosted LT1's requires alot more specialized experience than just simply stating "I have lots of experience tuning F-body's".
Stock LT1 motors are fragile when playing with boost, therefore it takes extreme amounts of knowledge to properly tune one.
Basically, be careful who you allow to work on the car, as it could very easily end up costing you a motor and a huge headache.
#15
Thanks for all the advice, my brother does have LT1 edit and a wideband but not to much experience with forced induction but I was planning on taking it to a reputable dyno tuner anyway. Regarding my 98 the main parts I want to use are the coil packs and interior parts and I still haven't done to much research but I have heard the main difference between lt1 and ls1 t56's are the input shafts, clutch assembly's and bellhousing which can be changed but I could be wrong. I still haven't completely decided on buying the car because I definitely want another 6 speed car but if I cant use my 98 trans stuff I might steer away from the purchase.
#17
Originally Posted by LT1MAN
you want it just because it has a supercharger dont you.....
#18
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
Originally Posted by duffman2
...but I have heard the main difference between lt1 and ls1 t56's are the input shafts, clutch assembly's and bellhousing which can be changed but I could be wrong. I still haven't completely decided on buying the car because I definitely want another 6 speed car but if I cant use my 98 trans stuff I might steer away from the purchase.
There is some good info in the thread but 42# injectors are NOT necessary with the mods you have described. If there is one thing to never forget is that forced induction requires you to spend more period. So never skimp or you'll regret it later....
#19
Sounds like a damn good deal at that price....
Fix the old designed **** (FMU ) and it will fly....I used to run one of those kits at 6-7 psi and was always worried the stock pistons were going on vacation. Never did though, and that kit went on to another F-body. FI can work on stock LT1 engine very reliablely if you get rid of those few comings mentioned on here. Just watch and fuel curves and boost on cold nights....
Fix the old designed **** (FMU ) and it will fly....I used to run one of those kits at 6-7 psi and was always worried the stock pistons were going on vacation. Never did though, and that kit went on to another F-body. FI can work on stock LT1 engine very reliablely if you get rid of those few comings mentioned on here. Just watch and fuel curves and boost on cold nights....
#20
well it sounds like I might be driving another F-body pretty soon. I just don't know if I can live with a fast auto-trans car. I think I might just have to cut a big friggin hole in the floor for the hydraulic master and make that 98 T56 setup work. hopefully.