LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

A/C Firewall Stuff, removal

Old Jan 14, 2008 | 06:34 PM
  #41  
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It can..but you will have some fun with it. Have some extra Tools nearby to replace the ones that you throw.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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A few more pics of the process.

Shows what it looks like once you have it out, but before cutting.

Then where you have to notch that area for the air to blow through, since normally it goes out through the a/c area and then back in.

I cut off the part over the trans hump too, I wanted that space for the pcm, fuseblocks, etc.

Relocated the fan resistor pack so it would still be in the airflow.
Attached Thumbnails A/C Firewall Stuff, removal-dscf0119.jpg   A/C Firewall Stuff, removal-dscf0120.jpg   A/C Firewall Stuff, removal-dscf0122.jpg   A/C Firewall Stuff, removal-dscf0198.jpg   A/C Firewall Stuff, removal-dscf0231.jpg  


Last edited by John_D.; Jan 19, 2008 at 10:11 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 05:39 PM
  #43  
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I haven't taken on of these boxes apart before, but is there ANY way to relocate the coolant lines going in to the box after you remove the evaportor and under-hood A/C box?

if the heater hoses could be relocated down lower, along the "frame rail" it would make things look a WHOLE lot cleaner, imo.

I might toy around with this when I pull my motor to get freshened up. I think it makes things look 10-times better under the hood.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 06:34 PM
  #44  
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Just take it all out. More room, less weight.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 06:56 AM
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I did this but my heat output is ridiculously reduced, I can't stay even moderately comfortable in the car in the winter. It stays cold at every heater setting and the air blowing out the vents you can barely feel. Did I maybe hook up something wrong? I haven't been able to find anything yet.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 08:23 AM
  #46  
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Sounds like the flapper inside the box isn't opening. Make sure you have the small black vacuum line still hooked up to a vacuum source on the engine.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 08:49 AM
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the vacuum line is still hooked up to the T in the engine bay and everything appears on the up and up. Any other ideas?
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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I'm thinking the amount of air flow you're getting is the root of the problem.

Did you block off the opening to the cowl, where the fresh air intake is? The blower will try to pull air from the cowl, unless you have the selector on Max AC, then it will pull cabin air. If that opening is blocked the blower won't be able to pull any air. If you want cabin air all the time, take off that piece that goes on top of the blower.

Can you hear the flapper move when you move the selector from AC to heat?

Did you make a place for the air to go around, between the blower and the heater core?
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by John_D.
A few more pics of the process.

Shows what it looks like once you have it out, but before cutting.

Then where you have to notch that area for the air to blow through, since normally it goes out through the a/c area and then back in.

I cut off the part over the trans hump too, I wanted that space for the pcm, fuseblocks, etc.

Relocated the fan resistor pack so it would still be in the airflow.
Just curious as to when you moved the resistor...Can you still get to it where it is fairly easy or is it gonna be a PITA? I would probably move mine as well. But where to I wouldn't know! Just wondering if it was to go bad if you'd have to pull the box out or just remove the panel under the hood??
Thanks and it looks good BTW.

And so does everyone else's too!

And Merv thanks for the write ups on how to do this. You helped out a buddy of mine when he did his and we're getting ready to put his car back together in the next few weeks so it will be done for the shootout!
Just bought a new dash for it b/c someone broke in and stole his radio, and demolished his dash. While we were pulling the dash out of another camaro at the Junkyard we took out the Air Bag....And to let everyone know, That thing prolly weighs about 20 lbs. It was pretty heavy! (Weight Reduction Guys')
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by LT1Formula007
...curious as to when you moved the resistor...Can you still get to it where it is fairly easy or is it gonna be a PITA? ...Just wondering if it was to go bad if you'd have to pull the box out or just remove the panel under the hood??
Thanks and it looks good BTW.
Thanks.

The panel is sandwiched between the box and the firewall (it's on the dash side of the firewall, so to get the panel out, the box would have to come out.

Fortunately neither one has to come out to get to the resistors. Just the cover over the heater core. What I don't remember is if the heater core overlaps them at all. If it does, it's just by a little. Enough that just loosening the heater core and letting it shift over a little would clear it.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by LT1Formula007
And Merv thanks for the write ups on how to do this. You helped out a buddy of mine when he did his and we're getting ready to put his car back together in the next few weeks so it will be done for the shootout!
No prob man..glad you guys got it all together.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by John_D.
I'm thinking the amount of air flow you're getting is the root of the problem.

Did you block off the opening to the cowl, where the fresh air intake is? The blower will try to pull air from the cowl, unless you have the selector on Max AC, then it will pull cabin air. If that opening is blocked the blower won't be able to pull any air. If you want cabin air all the time, take off that piece that goes on top of the blower.

Can you hear the flapper move when you move the selector from AC to heat?

Did you make a place for the air to go around, between the blower and the heater core?

The area I cut out looks to be about the same size as the pics you posted. It maybe a bit smaller. I don't believe I've blocked off the opening on the cowl. All the parts are stock up there. Flapper sounds like it's moving.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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I don't know if you guys discussed this, but what is the electrical wire at the center of the HVAC housing? If I remember correctly, it was a sensor going to the evaporator.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 08:53 PM
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Sounds good. Just wondered about the resistor and what it would take replace it if you ever had to change it.
Thanks Again.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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i did this mod and sealed it up great and the heat is hot and everything and you can hear the blower motor switching speeds but it only comes out of the vents as if it is on low setting any help?
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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It's not sealed then. Only answer.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:21 PM
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i put mine in the engine bay and i used rubber to seal underneath it...any other suggestions then?
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 11:42 PM
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did you hook up the vacuum line for the HVAC?
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 12:00 AM
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Yes i did that's why i didnt get it???
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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Did you cut a passage way from the blower motor to the heater core?
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