New 355 LE2 head / LE1.5 cam LT1 motor done.
#1
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Finally, I got my new 355 running.
Here are the specs:
2 bolt block bored .030" over, lightly decked, align honed w/ threaded oil plugs
Melling select SV oil pump w/ GM white spring
Oil adapter bypass plugged w/ oil cooler removed
Mahle .030" 6" forged pistons
Scat 6" forged connecting rods
Reconditioned stock LT1 crankshaft
ARP main studs, rod & head bolts
LE2 ported heads
LE1.5 high lift cam
Comp 1.6 pro-mag NSA roller rockers
Comp chromoly 7.00" push-rods
LT4 ED timing set
ASP under drive pulley
LE ported intake manifold
52mm ported throttle body w/ LT1 aluminum cover proudly displayed
Trick flow elbow
30# SVO fuel injectors
MSD coil and super conductor OTVC plug wires
AS&M cold air induction
RK sport mid-length headers
Borla cat-back w/e-cutout without cat
Aluminum drive shaft
Custom Kevlar clutch
4.10 ring/pinion
Madz28.com tune
I have about 50 miles on the motor and I fired on it for the first time today. First gear just smoked the tires, but I took it to 6K RPM in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. The new motor revving up to about 3K RPM feels like my old motor but then the power starts to come on and it does not let up a bit all the way to 6K and most likely even higher than that. The power just feels incredible. The exhaust tone just flat out sounds mean as hell, it has a nice lope and screams I aint stock. Oil pressure is 40 at idle ad 70+ at WOT and it runs smooth as silk with no funky vibes.
My old near all-bolt on motor made 301RWHP so it is very obvious I am making a great deal more now according to the butt dyno. I am expecting this new motor to rev to about 6.4K RPM once it is broken in. It feels very streetable and has not shown any signs of funky or unwanted characteristics, exactly as I wanted.
It appears that the left BLM's are 128 +-10 points or so and are in check but the right is seeing 160 at at idle so I will need to address this. It appears that I have a bit of minor knock retard but it tends to come and go. It is most noticeable at light throttle but is not present at WOT.
Once it has around 500 miles or so it will go to the dyno. My goal has been for 390-400 RWHP and mid 12's in the quarter or so. I think i will be close.
Thanks to Lloyd Elliot and all who helped me to get this thing going.
It also looks sharp too, I painted everything including the whole engine compartment.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r6/wrd1972/IMG_0192.jpg)
Here are the specs:
2 bolt block bored .030" over, lightly decked, align honed w/ threaded oil plugs
Melling select SV oil pump w/ GM white spring
Oil adapter bypass plugged w/ oil cooler removed
Mahle .030" 6" forged pistons
Scat 6" forged connecting rods
Reconditioned stock LT1 crankshaft
ARP main studs, rod & head bolts
LE2 ported heads
LE1.5 high lift cam
Comp 1.6 pro-mag NSA roller rockers
Comp chromoly 7.00" push-rods
LT4 ED timing set
ASP under drive pulley
LE ported intake manifold
52mm ported throttle body w/ LT1 aluminum cover proudly displayed
Trick flow elbow
30# SVO fuel injectors
MSD coil and super conductor OTVC plug wires
AS&M cold air induction
RK sport mid-length headers
Borla cat-back w/e-cutout without cat
Aluminum drive shaft
Custom Kevlar clutch
4.10 ring/pinion
Madz28.com tune
I have about 50 miles on the motor and I fired on it for the first time today. First gear just smoked the tires, but I took it to 6K RPM in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. The new motor revving up to about 3K RPM feels like my old motor but then the power starts to come on and it does not let up a bit all the way to 6K and most likely even higher than that. The power just feels incredible. The exhaust tone just flat out sounds mean as hell, it has a nice lope and screams I aint stock. Oil pressure is 40 at idle ad 70+ at WOT and it runs smooth as silk with no funky vibes.
My old near all-bolt on motor made 301RWHP so it is very obvious I am making a great deal more now according to the butt dyno. I am expecting this new motor to rev to about 6.4K RPM once it is broken in. It feels very streetable and has not shown any signs of funky or unwanted characteristics, exactly as I wanted.
It appears that the left BLM's are 128 +-10 points or so and are in check but the right is seeing 160 at at idle so I will need to address this. It appears that I have a bit of minor knock retard but it tends to come and go. It is most noticeable at light throttle but is not present at WOT.
Once it has around 500 miles or so it will go to the dyno. My goal has been for 390-400 RWHP and mid 12's in the quarter or so. I think i will be close.
Thanks to Lloyd Elliot and all who helped me to get this thing going.
It also looks sharp too, I painted everything including the whole engine compartment.
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r6/wrd1972/IMG_0192.jpg)
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r6/wrd1972/IMG_0194.jpg)
Last edited by wrd1972; 05-14-2007 at 08:39 AM.
#4
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Let me know your #'s. I just bought the LE3 kit with the LE4 cam from Lloyd Elliot. Ported intake and all. He's a really nice guy. Have you seen his car. He has the Firebird Trans Am that runs 11.3 in the Quarter all motor with the LE2 kit and a A4 tranny. Not bad. You should break the 400whp mark easly. I am looking at 460+ at the wheels on my setup. Hopefully all motor + I am stroking it. Along with more weight reduction and drivetrain upgrades to reduce the drivetrain loss to the wheels. Fidanza Lightweight aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, rear end upgrade. I see a minimum of 430whp on a bad day all motor. On top of that, 300+shot of juice.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Karl Ellwein
Beautiful engine and engine bay.
With the stock crankshaft, (which is a good idea by the way) what do you mean by "Forged" 355?
With the stock crankshaft, (which is a good idea by the way) what do you mean by "Forged" 355?
Maybe I am using the term incorrectly since I dont have a true forged crank.
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whats the benefit of running a le1.5 cam vs. a le2 cam?
Just curious cause I was going to go with the le2 package and someone had mentioned something to me about doing the 1.5 cam instead of the 2 cam
Just curious cause I was going to go with the le2 package and someone had mentioned something to me about doing the 1.5 cam instead of the 2 cam
#16
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Originally Posted by XzWhiteGhstzX
whats the benefit of running a le1.5 cam vs. a le2 cam?
Just curious cause I was going to go with the le2 package and someone had mentioned something to me about doing the 1.5 cam instead of the 2 cam
Just curious cause I was going to go with the le2 package and someone had mentioned something to me about doing the 1.5 cam instead of the 2 cam
The LE1.5 cam revs similar to the CC503. The LE2 cam revs similar to the CC306. I did not want to rev to 6500 RPM or so because I want engine longevity, stock like street manners and decent MPG. I dont mind giving up some power to get these things.
I also did not want the low end torque hit that tends to come with a bigger cam.
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This is something I should have done instead of my 396! Looks sharp! Too bad I hadn't heard of Lloyd in 2002. If I ever have my heads off for any reason, I'm gonna send them to Lloyd to go over them and make an LE3 equivalent and pickup an LE port matched Edelbrock LT1 intake.