LT1 might be LTjunk
#1
LT1 might be LTjunk
I need some advise about my LT1, I have been searching for possible solutions for the Intake Backfire problem. I am running out of options for repairs.
Car: 94 t/a with 130K
recently developed a Intake back fire, nothing major I could still haul *** in the car. Problem got worse where anytime I put the pedal to the floor, the car would hesitate, sputter and pop. I let off and I can ease into the gas up to 70+mph with out a hic up. Then the car died out on me on the road. wouldn't start just crank and crank, no fuel pump I could here. Car cooled off, fired right up. as I am driving I can put the car in nuetral and i can rev all I want with no backfire. Put it in Drive it backfires....Also car takes some cranking to start when cold before it fires up
This is what I have replaced since..
TPS
IAC
Plugs
Wires
Opti
Coil
ICM
With the same problem still existing, should I do 02's and a MAP sensor? its really annoying I havent pin pointed the problem yet Car is throwing no codes what so ever
Thanks
Car: 94 t/a with 130K
recently developed a Intake back fire, nothing major I could still haul *** in the car. Problem got worse where anytime I put the pedal to the floor, the car would hesitate, sputter and pop. I let off and I can ease into the gas up to 70+mph with out a hic up. Then the car died out on me on the road. wouldn't start just crank and crank, no fuel pump I could here. Car cooled off, fired right up. as I am driving I can put the car in nuetral and i can rev all I want with no backfire. Put it in Drive it backfires....Also car takes some cranking to start when cold before it fires up
This is what I have replaced since..
TPS
IAC
Plugs
Wires
Opti
Coil
ICM
With the same problem still existing, should I do 02's and a MAP sensor? its really annoying I havent pin pointed the problem yet Car is throwing no codes what so ever
Thanks
Last edited by 7901 WS6; 05-29-2007 at 12:57 PM.
#6
Originally Posted by 95FbFormula
Take out the O2s and check them. does it seem to be running rich or smoking at all.
#7
Originally Posted by TravisA
Possibly the pcm going bad?
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#8
I thought the computer didnt even read the o2s or MAP at WOT. Is there any difference with how the car runs from when you first start it cold to when its warmed up? I would do a leak down test.
Jason
Jason
#12
The car will start right up after it is warmed up.
I did not check the Fuel PSI, Fuel Pump is a job I dread the most. I dont think it would be bad as a opti though! I wont be pissed if it doesnt solve my problem since the car does have alot of miles on the pump which I assume is original. I will test it though for sure. What is the stock PSI??
Temp Sensor.. or is it running lean cause of fuel pump going out..?
I did not check the Fuel PSI, Fuel Pump is a job I dread the most. I dont think it would be bad as a opti though! I wont be pissed if it doesnt solve my problem since the car does have alot of miles on the pump which I assume is original. I will test it though for sure. What is the stock PSI??
Temp Sensor.. or is it running lean cause of fuel pump going out..?
#14
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by 7901 WS6
I changed that before I had the issue @ 115K, Any one else??
Sorry, I've been watching House M.D. for the past 24hrs (Season 1 and 2, my own lil Marathon for S3 finale tonight! ), but I still strongly stick by it being the fuel filter! If not, I"m sorry you were out $6, or even $10 if they over charge out there.
#16
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by Schweet97Z
what kind of opti did u replace it with. please dont tell me anything other than msd, dynaspark, or gm. please!
#18
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by Schweet97Z
no there is summit, and local parts stores versions of the opti's also i also think jegs has there own version.....all of which are ****
So none of those are just rebuilt cores? They all have their own parts made for them to their own spec, instead of GM spec? I'm honestly asking, because I don't know lol Not to be a dick.
#19
its ok, but the accel, summit, jegs, etc. are brand new units. im also guessing the autozone units are to, because im pretty sure they have a lifetime warranty. now dispite the warranty it doesnt make them a good unit. a friend of mine bought a summit opti and the rotor screws backed out of it within (im guessing) 2000 miles. as far as spec goes, im sure alot of them use GM's spec, but the quality of parts just isnt there, which is how they sell alot cheaper. that being said ive read guys destroying accel, jegs, and autozone opti's just as much. there are a few high hp guys still on a gm unit. i always look at a part as, you get what you pay for. id rather have the car sit for alittle longer to save up for the best of the best, or something close to it. for example i was in a hurry for my headers and got pacesetters, they are now rusting and look like hell. what i should have done is just saved the money for the kooks and have been done with it. ive learned my lesson from that and try to pass it on to everyone else. "best bang for the buck" theory works for awhile but isnt always the greatest route. (yea i know i kinda went off track alittle, but also tryin to prove a point lol)
#20
Fuel Filter wouldnt hurt to do again, I will do a leak down test first before anything.
Opti was replaced with a MSD, 515.00 was a better price to pay than 674.00 that GM wanted for their P.O.S.
Opti was replaced with a MSD, 515.00 was a better price to pay than 674.00 that GM wanted for their P.O.S.