Scat Pro Comp rods, anyone use them?
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
Scat Pro Comp rods, anyone use them? been looking around at different connecting rods and noticed scat makes a 4340 I-beam rod, bushed, with 7/16 ARP cap screws, in either 5.7 or 6.0" length for less that $300 bucks. (the Pro-Comp series)
they look far superior in design and material than the similarly priced Eagle SIR rod, which is 5140 instead of 4340, and still use 3/8" bolts instead of 7/16" screws.
does anyone have any experience with these rods?
stock crank, forged pistons and the aboved mention Scat rods, good for 500rwhp levels on the bottle? (150shot) or will I need to move up to a 4340 crank, or H-beam style rods?
they look far superior in design and material than the similarly priced Eagle SIR rod, which is 5140 instead of 4340, and still use 3/8" bolts instead of 7/16" screws.
does anyone have any experience with these rods?
stock crank, forged pistons and the aboved mention Scat rods, good for 500rwhp levels on the bottle? (150shot) or will I need to move up to a 4340 crank, or H-beam style rods?
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Southern Maryland
Those SCAT I-beams with the 7/16" bolts are very good for the $300 bucks. They have the exact same shape as the Lunati Pro-Mod rod (doesn't mean they are as good but it's the same shape).
For a cheap China rod, that SCAT I-beam 7/16" is my favorite.
The 3/8" bolt I-beams from SCAT and Eagle are fine too for a budget build, (cheapest of the cheap). I'd use a stock GM powdered metal rod before I would use one of those Eagle SIR $180 rod sets.
One thing about the SCAT 7/16" bolt I-beam rod is that it seems to be starting to become very popular. The cost for that rod has risen by about $40 bucks over the past year. (from $260 to $300 retail).
The shape of that rod will cause you to have to clearance the inboard side of the cylinder bottom (as well as the normal spot outboard and the pan rail). The Lunati Pro-Mod rod and the SCAT 7/16" bolt I-beam both have a wide big-end that bumps the bottom of the cylinder (near the cam).
Just think though, for a few more weeks of saving lunch money you could have a set of Compstar H-beams or a set of Howard's USA made sportsman rods.
(edit: forgot to add.... The budget crank and rods can handle that but the one moment that the tune up is off will spell disaster. The big money forged bottom-end parts can handle a few bad tune ups and live to die another day.
Karl Ellwein
For a cheap China rod, that SCAT I-beam 7/16" is my favorite.
The 3/8" bolt I-beams from SCAT and Eagle are fine too for a budget build, (cheapest of the cheap). I'd use a stock GM powdered metal rod before I would use one of those Eagle SIR $180 rod sets.
One thing about the SCAT 7/16" bolt I-beam rod is that it seems to be starting to become very popular. The cost for that rod has risen by about $40 bucks over the past year. (from $260 to $300 retail).
The shape of that rod will cause you to have to clearance the inboard side of the cylinder bottom (as well as the normal spot outboard and the pan rail). The Lunati Pro-Mod rod and the SCAT 7/16" bolt I-beam both have a wide big-end that bumps the bottom of the cylinder (near the cam).
Just think though, for a few more weeks of saving lunch money you could have a set of Compstar H-beams or a set of Howard's USA made sportsman rods.
(edit: forgot to add....
stock crank, forged pistons and the aboved mention Scat rods, good for 500rwhp levels on the bottle? (150shot) or will I need to move up to a 4340 crank, or H-beam style rods?
Karl Ellwein
Last edited by Karl Ellwein; Jul 4, 2007 at 03:33 AM.
I have a customer with these rods in a 383 w/6-71 blower & 300 shot of n2o. They have been in that motor now for over a year without a problem. He has dyno'd over 800 rwhp and ran a 9.85 second 1/4 mile pass with this engine @ 5300 ft. of actual elevation. I would also recommend upgrading the cap screws to the ARP 2000 series for about $50 more.
Thread Starter
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
Originally Posted by Karl Ellwein
The shape of that rod will cause you to have to clearance the inboard side of the cylinder bottom (as well as the normal spot outboard and the pan rail). The Lunati Pro-Mod rod and the SCAT 7/16" bolt I-beam both have a wide big-end that bumps the bottom of the cylinder (near the cam).
Karl Ellwein
I've heard of people having to do this when using a stroker crank, but is this necassary with a stock stroke (355ci) engine? I've never heard of anyone having to clearance the block with a stock style crank, or stock style rod?
I've seen these callies-built Compstar rods before, but where can you get prices for them? the sponsor's site shows nothing on pricing.
Originally Posted by Mighty Whitey
I've heard of people having to do this when using a stroker crank, but is this necassary with a stock stroke (355ci) engine? I've never heard of anyone having to clearance the block with a stock style crank, or stock style rod?
I've seen these callies-built Compstar rods before, but where can you get prices for them? the sponsor's site shows nothing on pricing.
I've seen these callies-built Compstar rods before, but where can you get prices for them? the sponsor's site shows nothing on pricing.
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
Originally Posted by TravisA
That's the same rods I bought Rob. There actually a nice rod for the price....Now if I could ever get George to get my **** done 
good luck with george... he's about like every other machinist, if you don't ask about a completion date, you're liable to not get anything back for months!
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Originally Posted by Mighty Whitey
good luck with george... he's about like every other machinist, if you don't ask about a completion date, you're liable to not get anything back for months!
When I first dropped it off he said it will be 8 to 10 business days before I start on it and it will only take 1 day to finish. Well that was around May 1st if I remeber correctly.
Originally Posted by Mighty Whitey
I've seen these callies-built Compstar rods before, but where can you get prices for them? the sponsor's site shows nothing on pricing.
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
Originally Posted by dhdenney
They're about $600 with ARP 2000 bolts. I bought a set from Allen Motorsports on Ebay. Great looking rod. The machine work is superb. I think Thunder also has them priced on their site as well.
Jesus!!! that's pretty steep for a set of rods isnt it? I mean, Eagle H-beams could be had for that price, and still have half the money for a set of pistons left! 
Have the SCAT 7/16 bolt rods in many engines. In the stock stroke 3.48 its a bolt in and go. On the 3.75 and up you have to clearance the block but its much less the the H-beams.
The rods are very tough and have them in one persons boat with twin 383 small blocks running 6000 rpm for one hour. He suprizes a lot of boats when he says its only small blocks.
The rods are very tough and have them in one persons boat with twin 383 small blocks running 6000 rpm for one hour. He suprizes a lot of boats when he says its only small blocks.
Originally Posted by Mighty Whitey
Jesus!!! that's pretty steep for a set of rods isnt it? I mean, Eagle H-beams could be had for that price, and still have half the money for a set of pistons left!
TECH Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by Mighty Whitey
been looking around at different connecting rods and noticed scat makes a 4340 I-beam rod, bushed, with 7/16 ARP cap screws, in either 5.7 or 6.0" length for less that $300 bucks. (the Pro-Comp series)
they look far superior in design and material than the similarly priced Eagle SIR rod, which is 5140 instead of 4340, and still use 3/8" bolts instead of 7/16" screws.
does anyone have any experience with these rods?
stock crank, forged pistons and the aboved mention Scat rods, good for 500rwhp levels on the bottle? (150shot) or will I need to move up to a 4340 crank, or H-beam style rods?
they look far superior in design and material than the similarly priced Eagle SIR rod, which is 5140 instead of 4340, and still use 3/8" bolts instead of 7/16" screws.
does anyone have any experience with these rods?
stock crank, forged pistons and the aboved mention Scat rods, good for 500rwhp levels on the bottle? (150shot) or will I need to move up to a 4340 crank, or H-beam style rods?
2-ICR6000-7/16 6.000" Bushed $259
If you are they are decent rods should be suitable for your stated goals and a great bargain too!
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by Mighty Whitey
Jesus!!! that's pretty steep for a set of rods isnt it? I mean, Eagle H-beams could be had for that price, and still have half the money for a set of pistons left!
