What all is needed to be done to properly remove the A.I.R and EGR system from a lt1?What kinda effects will it have on the engine as far as driveablity?Im installing a set of pacesetter headers on a 93 Z for a friend.They are the race version which have no hookups for the A.I.R and EGR.Thanks for any info guys.

 

He'll need a tune that has them shut off. Which for a 93 is a whole new chip, not a tune like your 94 can have. It did it with mine, and after removing the AIR, my idle was smooth as silk. It was awesome.

 

Can PCM4less handle doing a tune like that?Who did you have turn your EGR and AIR off?I would like to see some pics of a engine that had the delete done to it.Just to see how other ppl have went about doing it.

 

yes pcm for less can do that for you but youll still need the block off plates for the back of the intake and whereever the other one is..

 

was your idle rough because you blocked off the connections? Or did it just get smoother because you disabled the system in a tune?

 

It was the same before and after the tune. Only when I removed the AIR pump and blocked off the exhaust manifold connections did things smooth out.

 

You can just run around with a check engine light after you delete them. Although, I don't advise this unless you are pretty much in tune with your car.

To do it, you have to remove the EGR **** from the back of the intake and block the holes off with plates that you either made or got off ebay. Then you need to seal up the vacuum nipple on the right side of the intake. For the air, you can either remove the pump and everything, or just leave it. It won't hurt anything.

 

you dont need a block off plate for the air?

 

I haven't removed the plumbing yet because I don't have the plate. I just corked them off :\

 

You just need vacuum caps for the intake and vacuum line to the manifold (on 95+ years) and then some kind of cap/covering for the header/manifold fittings. People do different things for those.

 

thats exactly what im saying it needs to be blocked off. some peoplehave the log tube headers and nothing needs to be blocked off on those.. i have long tubes for example...

 

Ya need 2 block off plates for the rear of the intake man., 1 for the egr and 1 for where the a.i.r. tube goes....i made my own and been driving around for a long time now with no difference than b4...jus the check engine light and the fan stay on.

 

lol thats not a bad deal since the fan should usually be on anyways

 

No true. Your primary fan should only kick on when when it gets up to 226, and back off when th temp gets down. Then again if you don't mind replacing dead fans, then having them on all the time is fine.

If you do this w/o getting a tune, then it's fine, but it'd be smart to run a manual fan switch. (Not calling you stupid Blackformy heh)

 

How much room does deleting the EGR and AIR free up? I have stock manifolds still, but I was considering getting these two tuned out (whenever I can afford it ) pics would be cool.
On a related note: has anybody heard of an EGR and/or AIR simulator? I'm using an O2 sim right now and really like the concept. I could have a pcm that'll throw no codes when I have to go in for inspection, and then plug my tuned OBDI back in to actually use. Would that be a simple deal, or are the EGR/AIR systems too complex?

 

even with a manual fan switch the fans will still stay on....ask how i know lol

 

Well, you'd have to run a full manual fan system then. Totally eliminating the Computer from interaction with them.

A-man, I'm sure it's 95% similar between our 93 and your 97, but I know that the manifolds are different and your style is cleaner looking, but I believe yours is also harder to get to the AIR piping (not sure). Mine is right on top, one tube each manifold. Was just a simple removing them, and welding them closed, and then putting them back in. Yours is a smaller style in the back of the manifold, I think. But if you get an EGR block off plate kit, it comes with 3 plates. AIR, EGR and then the AIR Manifold, which is nice. I couldn't find a plug for my manifolds, which is why I had to weld my stock one up heh (not the manifold, just the plug!).

As for room, well it removes the heater (egr) from the back of the intake, which helps from making the manifold warp from heat and leak oil. The AIR pump is electric and doesn't really free up too much space. It's pretty small really.

 

Both of those on the back of the intake mani are EGR stuff ,the A.I.R. only runs from the plastic portion of the intake tract to the exhaust manifolds.

 

thanks for the all the info its very helpful,i have another question though.the headers he is buying are pacesetter longtubes.he is ordering them from jegs.on there website it has 93-97 race version without AIR and EGR....96-97 with AIR and EGR.....94-95 with AIR and EGR.what would be the diffrence in the years on these?would a 94-95 work with AIR and EGR work on a 93 car?

 

There is also a vacuum line that goes from the air pump to the manifold on 95+ year models.