ABS InOp, and ticking noise (possibly manifold...who knows)
07-15-2007, 02:17 PM
#1
ABS InOp, and ticking noise (possibly manifold...who knows) Hey all, I'll post a video of the noise I'm experiencing in a bit...I gotta get in the car and drive it 
However the most interesting part is...it sounds LOUD on a cold start and a rev...it pops like a popcorn machine
And now, my ABS InOp light is on...what the hell! I don't know if this is related however when I make left turns my back right tire sounds like a whining dog wanting food, if you catch my drift.
Any help would be verrrry much appreciated, I'll be sure to get that video up on here ASAP.
However the most interesting part is...it sounds LOUD on a cold start and a rev...it pops like a popcorn machine
And now, my ABS InOp light is on...what the hell! I don't know if this is related however when I make left turns my back right tire sounds like a whining dog wanting food, if you catch my drift.
Any help would be verrrry much appreciated, I'll be sure to get that video up on here ASAP.
07-15-2007, 02:49 PM
#2
Edit, the ABS light only sometimes comes on after when I've been driving...
And I also noticed, there's a tiny little whine that keeps happening, almost sounds like a little robot is moving his arm...I can't remember what it is but I know it's only suppose to happen once then die off a few seconds after the car has been started then go away, it keeps turning off, then on, then off, then on....???
Here's the video of the popcorn machine and some nice ticking under the hood...
http://www.torqradio.com/stuff/popcorn.wmv
And I also noticed, there's a tiny little whine that keeps happening, almost sounds like a little robot is moving his arm...I can't remember what it is but I know it's only suppose to happen once then die off a few seconds after the car has been started then go away, it keeps turning off, then on, then off, then on....???
Here's the video of the popcorn machine and some nice ticking under the hood...
http://www.torqradio.com/stuff/popcorn.wmv
07-15-2007, 04:32 PM
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Popping from the exhaust at cold start is normal. It's a combination of cold metals in the engine creating too much clearance until they warm up. Also a car runs really rich at cold start to help the motor get to operating temperatures.
07-15-2007, 07:26 PM
#7
bang on you cat, see if it rattles.
for the ABS problem, when you first start your car the ABS unit goes through a self test, sometimes when one of the solenoids are bad or stuck it makes a loud noise that can be heard from inside the car. When the ABS light comes on it sets A DTC, If your OBDII Autozone may be able to check ABS codes, I'm not sure though. If your OBDI its going to coast some money to check it out.
for the ABS problem, when you first start your car the ABS unit goes through a self test, sometimes when one of the solenoids are bad or stuck it makes a loud noise that can be heard from inside the car. When the ABS light comes on it sets A DTC, If your OBDII Autozone may be able to check ABS codes, I'm not sure though. If your OBDI its going to coast some money to check it out.
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07-15-2007, 08:51 PM
#8
Originally Posted by sleeperMULLET
bang on you cat, see if it rattles.
for the ABS problem, when you first start your car the ABS unit goes through a self test, sometimes when one of the solenoids are bad or stuck it makes a loud noise that can be heard from inside the car. When the ABS light comes on it sets A DTC, If your OBDII Autozone may be able to check ABS codes, I'm not sure though. If your OBDI its going to coast some money to check it out.
for the ABS problem, when you first start your car the ABS unit goes through a self test, sometimes when one of the solenoids are bad or stuck it makes a loud noise that can be heard from inside the car. When the ABS light comes on it sets A DTC, If your OBDII Autozone may be able to check ABS codes, I'm not sure though. If your OBDI its going to coast some money to check it out.
hmm...nope cat doesn't move around...and I'm OBDII, but I dont know why it would only throw after I've been driving, then turns off randomly....wtf!
07-16-2007, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by litch2004
+1 for the ABS. mine also after a little while starts flashing but it isnt all the time. But mine is OBDI = $$$$$. I am just removing it and replacing it with the 3rd Gen style non-ABS
07-16-2007, 12:14 PM
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Check your ABS Sensors. They're on the inside of the fender wells
I'm surprised also no one has mentioned the ticking being caused by an exhaust leak. Double check how well your manifolds are bolted in, and also if the gaskets are blown out.
I'm surprised also no one has mentioned the ticking being caused by an exhaust leak. Double check how well your manifolds are bolted in, and also if the gaskets are blown out.
07-16-2007, 01:13 PM
#13
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
Check your ABS Sensors. They're on the inside of the fender wells
I'm surprised also no one has mentioned the ticking being caused by an exhaust leak. Double check how well your manifolds are bolted in, and also if the gaskets are blown out.
I'm surprised also no one has mentioned the ticking being caused by an exhaust leak. Double check how well your manifolds are bolted in, and also if the gaskets are blown out.
I've done the intake mani gasket, but never a exhaust mani...and something tells me I'll be swearing and drowning my self in PB blaster for the rest of eternity.
07-16-2007, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by litch2004
I am removing the ABS system and replacing it with a valve from the 3rd Gen camaros and firebirds. It is alot cheaper than fixing the ABS and works just fine.
07-16-2007, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by litch2004
I am removing the ABS system and replacing it with a valve from the 3rd Gen camaros and firebirds. It is alot cheaper than fixing the ABS and works just fine.
$50 to have the EBCM codes pulled, which the shop I had taken it to promptly refunded once they pulled and cleared about 20 some codes and had the codes come right back up. They then refunded my $50 saying because they couldn't fix the trouble they wouldn't take the money paid on diagnosis.
I prompted for what might cause so many codes when it seems that the brakes work fine (when the light wasn't lit). The answer given was that they would assume it to be the EBCM itself, but couldn't be sure as they couldn't do a proper diagnosis with their equipment. I was told to take it to a dealership.
Bought a used EBCM for $35. (New ones are almost a grand). Been working perfectly ever since.
That's the route I would go.
Even if you figure the cost of the EBCM codes getting pulled, (which I'd bet most shop would charge you for even if they can't fix the trouble), I spent less than $100.
07-16-2007, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by litch2004
yea you could but since it isnt functional why leave it in there. Iwould rather have more room in the engine bay. Plus I plan on installing a lock line, so it just gives me a reason to pull it
07-16-2007, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Lower
Huh, I had a sporadic ABS light, and it was a very cheap fix;
$50 to have the EBCM codes pulled, which the shop I had taken it to promptly refunded once they pulled and cleared about 20 some codes and had the codes come right back up. They then refunded my $50 saying because they couldn't fix the trouble they wouldn't take the money paid on diagnosis.
I prompted for what might cause so many codes when it seems that the brakes work fine (when the light wasn't lit). The answer given was that they would assume it to be the EBCM itself, but couldn't be sure as they couldn't do a proper diagnosis with their equipment. I was told to take it to a dealership.
Bought a used EBCM for $35. (New ones are almost a grand). Been working perfectly ever since.
That's the route I would go.
Even if you figure the cost of the EBCM codes getting pulled, (which I'd bet most shop would charge you for even if they can't fix the trouble), I spent less than $100.
$50 to have the EBCM codes pulled, which the shop I had taken it to promptly refunded once they pulled and cleared about 20 some codes and had the codes come right back up. They then refunded my $50 saying because they couldn't fix the trouble they wouldn't take the money paid on diagnosis.
I prompted for what might cause so many codes when it seems that the brakes work fine (when the light wasn't lit). The answer given was that they would assume it to be the EBCM itself, but couldn't be sure as they couldn't do a proper diagnosis with their equipment. I was told to take it to a dealership.
Bought a used EBCM for $35. (New ones are almost a grand). Been working perfectly ever since.
That's the route I would go.
Even if you figure the cost of the EBCM codes getting pulled, (which I'd bet most shop would charge you for even if they can't fix the trouble), I spent less than $100.