LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Grounding Kit = 9HP?

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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 06:03 PM
  #41  
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i was thinking maybe it helps out the 350z mote becuase its not a iron block and so maybe its not grounded out very well? not sure haha but my friends 350z has like 10 ground wires i thought it was stupid but i was wondering if it really works or not

thanks for the help (kinda)
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #42  
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Just gettin ready to order a cam, but now I am gonna need these new wires. Looks like I will have to wait until next paycheck for the cam. I hope these wires come in purple or bright neon green.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:49 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Whos gettin mad? I think its funny that there are people like you around to keep companies like this in business.
Now, if you woulda come on here saying "I'm gonna replace my 'big 3' so my lights will be brighter", then I wouldnt have anything to pick on you about.
But you didnt. You came on here and stated that its "dyno proven" that changing out your "big 3" will increase HP. Thats just silly.
And as far as my e-***** goes, I'm not the one that came off sounding like I was trying to school someone. You were.
I'm not an IT guy. I'm a car guy. I run a dyno everyday. I solve electrical problems on cars, everyday. Does that make my e-***** bigger? Maybe, if you have e-***** envy.
Your comment about keeping companies like this in business is bogus, as I would make my own cables, I would never pay the overpriced amount for one of these kits. I DO however think that their advertising is ridiculous. It does rival the tornado saying that if you buy it you will gain horsepower. Maybe I shouldn't have blanketed my statement as I did. My fault. Will it gain HP on any engine? No. Will it gain HP on some cars, even with that car NOT having an electrical issue to begin with? YES. Especially GM vehicles I've worked on from the mid 90's and up. Their electrical system is a joke if you ask me. I absolutely did not mean to come across as trying to school you. Go back and read my first post, then read what you responded with. I read your response as saying that I was only talking about replacing half the circuit. I know how electricity works as well, just like you. I HAVE seen this dyno tested, and it was a good test. If I can find it, I'll post it. I have yet to be able to find it. It was years ago that I saw it. I have respect for any member on here that seems like they know what they are talking about. I'm not an expert on this car, I just bought my first f-body, that's why I'm here. I'm an IT guy, yes. I'm a car guy too, yes. I've swapped engines, i've diagnosed electrical issues, yes. I'm not trying to do anything but learn and help others here. Sorry if I took you wrong and sorry if you took me wrong as well. /drama.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:52 PM
  #44  
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Edcmat-l1 - I apologize. I know why you were saying what you were now. I never went and looked at the ebay kit that was linked. That's a different concept than what I was thinking of. I guess that kit is trying to eliminate the possibility of a ground loop issue. The concept behind it is good I guess, but you wouldn't see the true capability of it without replacing the power wires too, as you well know. My fault.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:55 PM
  #45  
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Drama!
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 08:54 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by jasonp31
Makes a difference if you run anything extra electrically, also stops your lights from dimming at a stoplight with your foot on the break.
Never had that issue in any of my vehicles. They've all been older than 93 too.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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Most of the cars I've worked on have been 95 and newer, though I did have a 91 Grand Prix that had the issue as well. Dunno, maybe I'm just picky. If the voltage at my components/battery isn't 14 volts or higher with the engine running, then I start replacing/upgrading stuff.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LoStOCeAnZ63
Drama!
thread=killed.

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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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on my last car it took close to 700 to keep my volts at 14.4 hope your not going off the dash display that was with (high beams on and radio bumpin at idle) lol i never did that mod i wonder if i would have picked up .3 waste of time if you ask me
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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I don't trust the OEM dash gauges, even on a brand new car. I read it right off the battery. Maybe the f-body electrical systems are better than what I'm used to working on. I haven't looked at it yet on my 95 Formula.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 11:34 PM
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Let me get this straight.... you add some lbs of thicker wire and gain about 9HP.... but since you added weight to your car.... its basically at the same performance level?
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 11:35 PM
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Whats the point then! Why worry about it.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 11:49 PM
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Time to go put on my waders, the **** is getting deep in here!!
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 12:13 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1
Time to go put on my waders, the **** is getting deep in here!!
Thats some funny sh.... stuff.....
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 02:19 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by jasonp31
Let me re-iterate, not every car will see a gain from replacing the big 3 wires. These three I'm talking about, for edcmat-l1, is the battery to alternator, battery to chassis, and engine to chassis.

Let me explain it this way, see if you guys may get off the bandwagon long enough to make an intelligent conversation out of this instead of chalking it up as the next tornado. Ever heard of or seen someone use an aftermarket wiring kit for a fuel pump? These kits, which can also be just rewired yourself, increase the gauge of wire for the power and ground. Why do that? Surely the awesome GM electrical system can feed the pump enough juice right? Wrong. When you install one of these kits, the headroom of fuel pressure rises significantly. Still think the Big 3 is a dumb idea? What about saying that every little bit helps? Like the airfoil mod. What a joke right? Does very little. Hey, but it does something right? Why not toss it on?
**** I guess I'm lucky that my walbro with the stock wiring harness could feed my car when it was a h/c car on a 150 shot.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonp31
Edcmat-l1 - I apologize.
No worries.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 08:18 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
**** I guess I'm lucky that my walbro with the stock wiring harness could feed my car when it was a h/c car on a 150 shot.
I'm talking about cars that are close to maxing out their pump. Re-wiring provides additional headroom. I explained that more than once.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 11:06 PM
  #58  
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personally, I've been thinking of doing this as well.
regardless of a performance increase or not, but a lower resistance in your electrical system will probably make your electrical components last longer, wouldn't it?
hmm... less resistance in the grounding system of your car could possibly make an opti last longer???? it's a stupid idea, but damn, if it meant prolonging the enevitable opti shitting out on me, it's worth any amount of money!
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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[QUOTE=Mighty Whitey;7978627]personally, I've been thinking of doing this as well.
regardless of a performance increase or not, but a lower resistance in your electrical system will probably make your electrical components last longer, wouldn't it?
hmm... less resistance in the grounding system of your car could possibly make an opti last longer???? it's a stupid idea, but damn, if it meant prolonging the enevitable opti shitting out on me, it's worth any amount of money![/QUOT


I dont think it would help the opti last any longer, over reving and condensation getting inside the opti is what wears them out. But it would help all the lights in the vehicle last longer, and all of the electronic displays. Resistance is was kills electronic circuits.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1

I dont think it would help the opti last any longer, over reving and condensation getting inside the opti is what wears them out. But it would help all the lights in the vehicle last longer, and all of the electronic displays. Resistance is was kills electronic circuits.

I partially agree with your statement, I know high rpm and moisture kills the opti. but a good clean grounded electrical system probably wouldn't hurt. stray voltage from an outside source is conducted in to the opti circuit when moisture is present- the path of least resistance to ground.

now... if the path that the electrical current is SUPPOSED to follow, is a much better (easier) path to follow, there would be less chance of stray voltage trying to find its way to ground via the opti circuitry when moisture is present- low-resistance wires, good plugs, no anti-seize on the threads, good block to chassis, and block to battery grounds, etc...

more than anything I agree with the conclusion that the "big 3" mod is probably not going to help a whole lot unless your electrical system is in bad shape. I did it to my truck and noticed a difference in performance... then again, the cable going from the alternator to the battery had corroded in half as well, on top of the power wire to the distribution block being corroded 4 inches down the cable for the battery terminal. so replacing the wire only brought it back up to par with what it was in '94, but it was definately an improvement.
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