LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Solid roller Lifters ???'s

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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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Default Solid roller Lifters ???'s

With a solid roller cam, can you just use solid roller lifters from any small block chevy? Is there any reason you wouldnt be able to use stock replace ment solid lifters on 224/230 .536/.544 solid roller?

Also on a side note, what are the benefits of solid roller over hydraulic?
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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No you can't just use *any* solid lifters. There are many manufacturers that make them for the LT1. I am using the Crane 11522's, but I would recommend a set that have high pressure pin oiling (HIPPO). Isky & Crower are 2 that offer that type that I can think of off the top of my head, but they are $$$. Solid allows you to run much more aggressive cam profiles (steeper ramps) with out having to worry about destroying a hyd. lifter. More HP, better overall performance, and improved throttle response etc... You will have to set the heads up for solid as well. It calls for way higher spring pressures, and in most cases you will need a harder metal for the intake seat (ie: R&R). Talk to a cylinder head specialist or performance machine shop. They will go into way more detail for you if you so desire.


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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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Wow those 11522's at Advance Autoparts run about 350.00 is that the average cost for solid roller lifters?
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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$350 is a steal for solid lifters.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 12:30 AM
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Here is another link for a set of great lifters. Morel makes PBM's LS1 solid roller lifter's, which just happen to fit Gen 1 & 2 SBC's that were equipt. with a HR cam. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Morel...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 12:55 AM
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They won't work in an LT1, you need them to have the 2 flat sides and put the stock lifter retainers in or they need to have link bars to prevent them from spinning in the bore. BTW, that "224/230 .536/.544" is a itty bitty baby cam for going solid roller. Might as well stay hydraulic, won't have any issues with specs like that. I run a 260/266 .672/.672 stick.


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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by O Holy P
They won't work in an LT1, you need them to have the 2 flat sides and put the stock lifter retainers in or they need to have link bars to prevent them from spinning in the bore. BTW, that "224/230 .536/.544" is a itty bitty baby cam for going solid roller. Might as well stay hydraulic, won't have any issues with specs like that. I run a 260/266 .672/.672 stick.


P
Uh, they do have the flat side on them. Maybe the pic is just deceiveing you. In real life they are what you are describing above, at least they fit into my LT1 link bars without any problem's.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 12:55 PM
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Duh...had to squint, hehe.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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Patrick, what kind of power is your car making?
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 11:22 PM
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Not sure exactly, had it on a dyno twice and had trouble both times. For now it has a street tune on it and running really well. I would guess in the 480~490 rwhp realm n/a. Taking it to the track on Friday to get some good numbers out of it, I hope. It just needs to stay together. *knockonwood*


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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by projekt70chevelle
Wow those 11522's at Advance Autoparts run about 350.00 is that the average cost for solid roller lifters?
350 is cheap for ANY serious high performance lifter set. Price some Morel hydraulics.
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