LT1 vs LS1
#26
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Not its not! Its crappy post and shitty advice to give somone
He is simply out launching and out driving his freinds
Look at a dyno graph of a stock LS1 and look at one of a stock LT1
LS1 makes power all over, look at were there power bans are]
Ls1 is that much better period
#27
#28
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Man I love this debate.
Bottom line. Superior is not the word. The only hp gain exception is the heads. Talk to someone that has a custom set of 18* LT1 heads on their LT1 and you will see the LS1 get knocked down severely. Port design helps the LS1 a little bit but the 18* vs. the 23* is where the hp difference is.
Bottom line. Superior is not the word. The only hp gain exception is the heads. Talk to someone that has a custom set of 18* LT1 heads on their LT1 and you will see the LS1 get knocked down severely. Port design helps the LS1 a little bit but the 18* vs. the 23* is where the hp difference is.
At that point its not longer a LT1 its a SBC with FI
#31
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an lt4 has a better top end. $ for $ its cheaper to buy a lt1 and go with your own choice of heads and cam. go to www.eportworks.com and look at those packages.
#33
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LT1 = reverse cooled motor. So it's not a "SBC with FI" after those mods. When it comes to swapping parts from Gen1 to Gen2 (LTx), it's not as easy as it seems. Some parts do, sure, but not enough to just bolt spare parts together and have a running motor.
Crank, rods, pistons, cam (assuming it's roller) and a few small other things should port over from the 357 in your sig. Well other than the Flowie
Crank, rods, pistons, cam (assuming it's roller) and a few small other things should port over from the 357 in your sig. Well other than the Flowie
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#35
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There are a few things a search won't tell you that a lot of LT1 guys have experienced first hand. When you decide to rip into your car and mod it, you may go the nitrous route. I have seen several LT1 cars spraying a 125-150 all day long on stock bottom ends. When the motor finally lets go, and I'm talking some serious nitrous-junkie usage, it usually just pops a head gasket. Thats a very large LABOR fix, but a very tiny $$$$ fix in parts if you do it yourself. Now, I'm sure there are other problems that CAN occur, but thats usually what happens. LS1's on the other hand, tend to do some serious carnage when they let go. A local guy was spraying at the track with a 150 shot, it looked like someone stuck a stick of dynamite in his motor. I've seen other boosted LS1's grenade as well, where the windage tray looks like someone shot it with a shotgun. It just seems that the old-school iron LT1 is far more durable, and a hell of a lot cheaper to rebuild.
#36
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ScreaminRedZ, thats exactly what i was thinking, they were saying they hate these but this is the most replies to any thread ive ever had lol but i wasnt trying to cause an argument i am just curious and wanted some questions answered. can lt1's handle a turbo setup well??
#37
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I'll chime in on this one.
I've owned one lt1 and i'm on my second ls1. I really liked my lt1 96' camaro m6. It was a solid runner and very inexpensive. With a 503 cam and 125 zex nitrous my best run was 12.0 with a 1.8 60', that was without head work and on stock manifolds with pcmforlesstune. On the nitrous it made a little over 400 rwhp and the same torque on a conservative dyno. The cons of that car is i went thru 3 distributors which was a huge pain in the butt in only a 30,000 mile period.
My ls1 cars are by far much stronger runners. My 2000 camaro with cam and 150 shot HSW ran best of 11.2 with a 1.58 60'. That was with the full suspension and rear pulled right out of the 96 (12 bolt) and the exact same tires and rims, so they would be older tires since i used them the year prior with the lt1 and bought them used. The camaro on nitrous (only a 25 shot more size then the lt1) had 500 rwhp and 500 rwtorque. I ran a 150 shot on that car many times without a problem at all. I haven't ran the trans am so I can't say how good it runs.
The lt1's do not have more torque stock. If everyone can agree that the ls1's have more horsepower then they have to have more torque since horsepower if a calculation off of torque and rpm.
Good luck on your choice but i don't think you'll be dissapointed with either choice.
I've owned one lt1 and i'm on my second ls1. I really liked my lt1 96' camaro m6. It was a solid runner and very inexpensive. With a 503 cam and 125 zex nitrous my best run was 12.0 with a 1.8 60', that was without head work and on stock manifolds with pcmforlesstune. On the nitrous it made a little over 400 rwhp and the same torque on a conservative dyno. The cons of that car is i went thru 3 distributors which was a huge pain in the butt in only a 30,000 mile period.
My ls1 cars are by far much stronger runners. My 2000 camaro with cam and 150 shot HSW ran best of 11.2 with a 1.58 60'. That was with the full suspension and rear pulled right out of the 96 (12 bolt) and the exact same tires and rims, so they would be older tires since i used them the year prior with the lt1 and bought them used. The camaro on nitrous (only a 25 shot more size then the lt1) had 500 rwhp and 500 rwtorque. I ran a 150 shot on that car many times without a problem at all. I haven't ran the trans am so I can't say how good it runs.
The lt1's do not have more torque stock. If everyone can agree that the ls1's have more horsepower then they have to have more torque since horsepower if a calculation off of torque and rpm.
Good luck on your choice but i don't think you'll be dissapointed with either choice.
#38
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thanks alot for the reply pddye, i am still debating, i have a little daughter and i cant just go out and blow loads and loads of money, thats why im leaning towards the lt1 more. anything will be faster than what i have. my chevy truck is my daily driver and i dont wanna mess with it. so will the stock bottom end hold up to boost on the lt1 or will it need to be upgraded before i put a turbo setup on it?
#39
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There are a few things a search won't tell you that a lot of LT1 guys have experienced first hand. When you decide to rip into your car and mod it, you may go the nitrous route. I have seen several LT1 cars spraying a 125-150 all day long on stock bottom ends. When the motor finally lets go, and I'm talking some serious nitrous-junkie usage, it usually just pops a head gasket. Thats a very large LABOR fix, but a very tiny $$$$ fix in parts if you do it yourself. Now, I'm sure there are other problems that CAN occur, but thats usually what happens. LS1's on the other hand, tend to do some serious carnage when they let go. A local guy was spraying at the track with a 150 shot, it looked like someone stuck a stick of dynamite in his motor. I've seen other boosted LS1's grenade as well, where the windage tray looks like someone shot it with a shotgun. It just seems that the old-school iron LT1 is far more durable, and a hell of a lot cheaper to rebuild.
I really dont understand stand were your getting that from? Ive scene both cars pop head gaskets etc
FYI there are 300shot stock bottom end LT1s and LS1s around here with no problems....You car just needs to be tuned well for it and you have to know what your doing..
600whp FI is being done with stock bottom end LS1s also
ITS ALL ABOUT THE TUNE!
#40
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LT1 = reverse cooled motor. So it's not a "SBC with FI" after those mods. When it comes to swapping parts from Gen1 to Gen2 (LTx), it's not as easy as it seems. Some parts do, sure, but not enough to just bolt spare parts together and have a running motor.
Crank, rods, pistons, cam (assuming it's roller) and a few small other things should port over from the 357 in your sig. Well other than the Flowie![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Crank, rods, pistons, cam (assuming it's roller) and a few small other things should port over from the 357 in your sig. Well other than the Flowie
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)