Ram Air vs K&N
12-27-2007, 07:27 PM
#41
12-27-2007, 07:33 PM
#43
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More air is coming into and escaping the engine bay.
Lid > Airbox .
Which hood you have is irrelevant.
Helping heat escape the engine bay is all you should be worried about, not 1hp at 6800rpms at 158mph from your "ram air" hood.
Last edited by burnzilla; 12-27-2007 at 07:38 PM.
12-27-2007, 08:03 PM
#44
The stock intake on the LT1 Fbodies is one of the most restrictive air-intake designs in the history of GM performance. They even admitted it.
Dyno proven results show aftermarket CAI's giving 4-9 hp on stock and modded cars. GM performance even did a small project about 4-5 months ago on a 94 Formula, when they gave it a Thunder Racing Performance Package, which included a K&N Intake, Air Foil and Magna-Flow Catback.
Results where 12-15hp, and the car went from 14.1's to 13.9's and some 13.8's on better passes.
The K&N and Moroso Intake have been proven to outperform stock Ram Air, even on the birds.
The lid is the best.
On my Moroso intake the filter is located far below the old intake box and DOES get cold air, then is passes through my aluminum high-temp ceramic coated elbow.
Dyno proven results show aftermarket CAI's giving 4-9 hp on stock and modded cars. GM performance even did a small project about 4-5 months ago on a 94 Formula, when they gave it a Thunder Racing Performance Package, which included a K&N Intake, Air Foil and Magna-Flow Catback.
Results where 12-15hp, and the car went from 14.1's to 13.9's and some 13.8's on better passes.
The K&N and Moroso Intake have been proven to outperform stock Ram Air, even on the birds.
The lid is the best.
On my Moroso intake the filter is located far below the old intake box and DOES get cold air, then is passes through my aluminum high-temp ceramic coated elbow.
I am well aware of how garbage the stock airbox is - I was mentioning the FIPK, the K&N cai - which is more then enough for a stock cube LT1, and any "ram air" gimmick has been tested bogus. The FIPK from K&N is a great piece - it is not just about the shape of a CAI, but the internal area!
As I said, I only got ~2.4rwhp with an open throttle body over the K&N cai during back to back testing runs within seconds of each other...on a ported heads/ported intake/custom cam LT1. It is just not an area for improvement on a stock cube LT1, since it readily flows well over the air a 350ci engine can ever use(unless you spin it to 9k rpms or something!).
Oh don't get me wrong, I agree that track times are always the ultimate goal...but you must admit that back to back dyno runs with less the 3 hp change is good for some sort of evidence? I cannot imagine the brief period of speed reached at the end of a run being enough "ram air" for any type of benefit. Even with the car at 100mph the air will not be "forced" into the intake - the air intake charge at WOT is already moving well over that speed and 650cfms worth of volume, even on a bone stock LT1 - how can it build any pressure?!
12-27-2007, 08:04 PM
#45
Keep dreaming, the test on the WS6 car proves that more air is going through the MAF at speed on the highway vs on the dyno WOW I wonder what is doing that...the ram air nostrils MAYBE? Takes no rocket scientist to see those results. Can you comprehend what you read?
As far as the bikes go, same thing. Simulating the air the bike is getting at speed on the highway makes more power, period.
By the way tell these guys ram air is bullshit and watch them laugh in your face. They have a carb plate that seals the carb to the hood scoop, forcing cooler air down the throat of the carbs and sealing out underhood heat. MAKING MORE POWER!
Think what ya want, I got better stuff to do than teach someone common sense.
OVER AND OUT
David
As far as the bikes go, same thing. Simulating the air the bike is getting at speed on the highway makes more power, period.
By the way tell these guys ram air is bullshit and watch them laugh in your face. They have a carb plate that seals the carb to the hood scoop, forcing cooler air down the throat of the carbs and sealing out underhood heat. MAKING MORE POWER!
Think what ya want, I got better stuff to do than teach someone common sense.
OVER AND OUT
David
12-27-2007, 08:08 PM
#46
Keep dreaming, the test on the WS6 car proves that more air is going through the MAF at speed on the highway vs on the dyno WOW I wonder what is doing that...the ram air nostrils MAYBE? Takes no rocket scientist to see those results. Can you comprehend what you read?
As far as the bikes go, same thing. Simulating the air the bike is getting at speed on the highway makes more power, period.
By the way tell these guys ram air is bullshit and watch them laugh in your face. They have a carb plate that seals the carb to the hood scoop, forcing cooler air down the throat of the carbs and sealing out underhood heat. MAKING MORE POWER!
Think what ya want, I got better stuff to do than teach someone common sense.
OVER AND OUT
David
As far as the bikes go, same thing. Simulating the air the bike is getting at speed on the highway makes more power, period.
By the way tell these guys ram air is bullshit and watch them laugh in your face. They have a carb plate that seals the carb to the hood scoop, forcing cooler air down the throat of the carbs and sealing out underhood heat. MAKING MORE POWER!
Think what ya want, I got better stuff to do than teach someone common sense.
OVER AND OUT
David
Seriously, just because more air passes the maf does not mean the engine will be using it. It intakes air in PULSES, not a smooth stream, and any MINIMAL ram air benefit a street car would see in the 1/4 is NEGLIGABLE.
You cannot begin to compare an F-body ram air system on a car trapping at 120 to a funny cars direct ram air scoop doing well over 200.
12-27-2007, 08:21 PM
#47
When is the last time you hit over 250mph in the 1/4?
Seriously, just because more air passes the maf does not mean the engine will be using it. It intakes air in PULSES, not a smooth stream, and any MINIMAL ram air benefit a street car would see in the 1/4 is NEGLIGABLE.
You cannot begin to compare an F-body ram air system on a car trapping at 120 to a funny cars direct ram air scoop doing well over 200.
Seriously, just because more air passes the maf does not mean the engine will be using it. It intakes air in PULSES, not a smooth stream, and any MINIMAL ram air benefit a street car would see in the 1/4 is NEGLIGABLE.
You cannot begin to compare an F-body ram air system on a car trapping at 120 to a funny cars direct ram air scoop doing well over 200.
And that IS NOT a Funny Car, its a PRO STOCK CAR...GEEZ!
A plenum type intake needs to keep the plenum full, an individual throttlebody type setup, Hilborns etc are more of a "pulse" intake type deal.
I promise you guys this, the next time I go to the track I will block off my nostrils in my hood and SHOW you the car is slower.
I am at a loss for words, really I am.
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 12-27-2007 at 08:57 PM.
12-27-2007, 08:53 PM
#48
since an engine is nothing more than a big air pump the more you can get to it the better!
since the corvette is gm's flagship and they put better items on them than the f-body why is it that they NEVER put a cannister style air filter box in the vette? the vette has ALWAYS had a ram air style air box(85 - now!)
since the corvette is gm's flagship and they put better items on them than the f-body why is it that they NEVER put a cannister style air filter box in the vette? the vette has ALWAYS had a ram air style air box(85 - now!)
12-27-2007, 08:55 PM
#49
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When is the last time you hit over 250mph in the 1/4?
Seriously, just because more air passes the maf does not mean the engine will be using it. It intakes air in PULSES, not a smooth stream, and any MINIMAL ram air benefit a street car would see in the 1/4 is NEGLIGABLE.
You cannot begin to compare an F-body ram air system on a car trapping at 120 to a funny cars direct ram air scoop doing well over 200.
Seriously, just because more air passes the maf does not mean the engine will be using it. It intakes air in PULSES, not a smooth stream, and any MINIMAL ram air benefit a street car would see in the 1/4 is NEGLIGABLE.
You cannot begin to compare an F-body ram air system on a car trapping at 120 to a funny cars direct ram air scoop doing well over 200.
Finally someone with some common sense!
Your at a loss of common sense if you really think air is being "forced" into your motor by your little "scoops" in the front of the hood.
You want forced induction? Buy a procharger.
In fact, you want a real answer?
Go the to Racers Lounge and start a thread called, "does Ram Air actually up HP?"
Be prepared to get flamed for lack of common sense.
Last edited by burnzilla; 12-27-2007 at 09:11 PM.
12-27-2007, 09:17 PM
#50
Finally someone with some common sense!
Your car won't be any slower, your under-hood temps might go up because there is no where for hot air to escape.
AND JUST WHERE IS HOT AIR ESCAPING NOW? SEEING AS THE AIRBOX IS SEALED TO THE HOOD??AS I HAVE SAID LIKE 4 TIMES NOW!!!!
Your at a loss of common sense if you really think air is being "forced" into your motor.
You want forced induction? Buy a procharger.
MAN YOU GOT IT GOIN ON I MUST SAY, A YOUR FULL TIME JOB A ROCKET SCIENTIST, OR BRAIN SURGEON?
At a certain mph(and I have no idea what that mph may be) YES the air pushing on the front of the car DOES overcome what the engine is pulling in on it's own. THAT is a no brainer.You DO know that cars PUSH air in front of them ....right?THAT alone is what makes ram air possible.
Furthermore, the colder air provided by MY setup is better than a CAI any day, anytime.
It is proven that drag cars with forward facing hood scoops need to be jetted up, WHY...more air.Been there seen that, Carb Mustang went from a cowl type hood to a forward facing scoop sealed to the carb tray and it needed a rejet..why? You tell me, car only ran mid 10's at the same mph I have.You reckon it got more air?
Alas, you just dont get it.
David
Your car won't be any slower, your under-hood temps might go up because there is no where for hot air to escape.
AND JUST WHERE IS HOT AIR ESCAPING NOW? SEEING AS THE AIRBOX IS SEALED TO THE HOOD??AS I HAVE SAID LIKE 4 TIMES NOW!!!!
Your at a loss of common sense if you really think air is being "forced" into your motor.
You want forced induction? Buy a procharger.
MAN YOU GOT IT GOIN ON I MUST SAY, A YOUR FULL TIME JOB A ROCKET SCIENTIST, OR BRAIN SURGEON?
At a certain mph(and I have no idea what that mph may be) YES the air pushing on the front of the car DOES overcome what the engine is pulling in on it's own. THAT is a no brainer.You DO know that cars PUSH air in front of them ....right?THAT alone is what makes ram air possible.
Furthermore, the colder air provided by MY setup is better than a CAI any day, anytime.
It is proven that drag cars with forward facing hood scoops need to be jetted up, WHY...more air.Been there seen that, Carb Mustang went from a cowl type hood to a forward facing scoop sealed to the carb tray and it needed a rejet..why? You tell me, car only ran mid 10's at the same mph I have.You reckon it got more air?
Alas, you just dont get it.
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 12-27-2007 at 09:26 PM.
12-27-2007, 09:28 PM
#51
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A Lid is better then both.
Your 400hp car with 2 little vents is not the same as a funny car with 1000+hp.
12-27-2007, 09:36 PM
#52
At last he admits the truth.
ACTUALLY YOU ADMITTED IT, YOU SAID RAM AIR WAS A "HOAX" IT IS IN FACT REAL. I WILL PROVE IT, I HAVE A SCAN TOOL I CAN DRIVE THE CAR UNDER FULL POWER WITH THE NOSTRILS BLOCKED OFF AND OPEN.RECORD THE VALUES OF IAT AND MAF...DONE DEAL
An Airbox and CAI are pretty close in performance.
A Lid is better then both.
NOT, A LID IS ON PAR WITH MY SETUP...A CAI IS BELOW THEM BOTH.
Your 400hp car with 2 little vents is not the same as a funny car with 1000+hp.
MY 400 HP IS IN REALITY CLOSER TO 600 HP, NO FUNNY CAR ON THE PLANET HAS 1000HP, THE LOWEST IS AN ALCOHOL FUNNYCAR AT 3000 HP. NONE OF THOSE APPLY AS ANY FUNNY CAR HAS A SUPERCHARGER. DUHHHHHHHH!
YOU ARE A LOST CAUSE DUDE.
But people like you allow people like me to go faster than people like you...so its all good!
David
ACTUALLY YOU ADMITTED IT, YOU SAID RAM AIR WAS A "HOAX" IT IS IN FACT REAL. I WILL PROVE IT, I HAVE A SCAN TOOL I CAN DRIVE THE CAR UNDER FULL POWER WITH THE NOSTRILS BLOCKED OFF AND OPEN.RECORD THE VALUES OF IAT AND MAF...DONE DEAL
An Airbox and CAI are pretty close in performance.
A Lid is better then both.
NOT, A LID IS ON PAR WITH MY SETUP...A CAI IS BELOW THEM BOTH.
Your 400hp car with 2 little vents is not the same as a funny car with 1000+hp.
MY 400 HP IS IN REALITY CLOSER TO 600 HP, NO FUNNY CAR ON THE PLANET HAS 1000HP, THE LOWEST IS AN ALCOHOL FUNNYCAR AT 3000 HP. NONE OF THOSE APPLY AS ANY FUNNY CAR HAS A SUPERCHARGER. DUHHHHHHHH!
YOU ARE A LOST CAUSE DUDE.
But people like you allow people like me to go faster than people like you...so its all good!
David
12-27-2007, 09:58 PM
#54
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Again i wonder what kind of hood he had when he dynoed the airbox, and if he had a stock hood were the baffles cutout?? How good was it sealed?
In my 96 Ws6 with the baffles cutout of the hood, The Airbox GETS AIR AND IT IS COLD, like i said before, if i take my car for a ride, esp on the highway, and pull over and feel my airbox, its COLD. Im not talking about rwhp diffrences over a Cai, im just saying My air box gets outside air, and it is COLD, and i am talking about the middle of the summer in 90% temps, my airbox,filter, maf piping would be cold, i remember one time i was sitting in traffic on a hot 100% day for about 15-20mins, never got above 5mph, then i got on the highway for about 8-10 mins, doing about 70 and a quick 120mph burst, and when i got home my airbox was cold, how else do you explain that? How could that match a fender mounted one?
Personally, my car came with ramair, and i would never take it off for a fender mounted one.. Not to mention my trans am with my ws6 hood looks way meaner then your cowl hood
In my 96 Ws6 with the baffles cutout of the hood, The Airbox GETS AIR AND IT IS COLD, like i said before, if i take my car for a ride, esp on the highway, and pull over and feel my airbox, its COLD. Im not talking about rwhp diffrences over a Cai, im just saying My air box gets outside air, and it is COLD, and i am talking about the middle of the summer in 90% temps, my airbox,filter, maf piping would be cold, i remember one time i was sitting in traffic on a hot 100% day for about 15-20mins, never got above 5mph, then i got on the highway for about 8-10 mins, doing about 70 and a quick 120mph burst, and when i got home my airbox was cold, how else do you explain that? How could that match a fender mounted one?
Personally, my car came with ramair, and i would never take it off for a fender mounted one.. Not to mention my trans am with my ws6 hood looks way meaner then your cowl hood
12-27-2007, 10:16 PM
#56
Finally someone with some common sense!
Your car won't be any slower, your under-hood temps might go up because there is no where for hot air to escape.
AND JUST WHERE IS HOT AIR ESCAPING NOW? SEEING AS THE AIRBOX IS SEALED TO THE HOOD??AS I HAVE SAID LIKE 4 TIMES NOW!!!!
Your at a loss of common sense if you really think air is being "forced" into your motor.
You want forced induction? Buy a procharger.
MAN YOU GOT IT GOIN ON I MUST SAY, A YOUR FULL TIME JOB A ROCKET SCIENTIST, OR BRAIN SURGEON?
At a certain mph(and I have no idea what that mph may be) YES the air pushing on the front of the car DOES overcome what the engine is pulling in on it's own. THAT is a no brainer.You DO know that cars PUSH air in front of them ....right?THAT alone is what makes ram air possible.
Furthermore, the colder air provided by MY setup is better than a CAI any day, anytime.
It is proven that drag cars with forward facing hood scoops need to be jetted up, WHY...more air.Been there seen that, Carb Mustang went from a cowl type hood to a forward facing scoop sealed to the carb tray and it needed a rejet..why? You tell me, car only ran mid 10's at the same mph I have.You reckon it got more air?
Alas, you just dont get it.
David
Your car won't be any slower, your under-hood temps might go up because there is no where for hot air to escape.
AND JUST WHERE IS HOT AIR ESCAPING NOW? SEEING AS THE AIRBOX IS SEALED TO THE HOOD??AS I HAVE SAID LIKE 4 TIMES NOW!!!!
Your at a loss of common sense if you really think air is being "forced" into your motor.
You want forced induction? Buy a procharger.
MAN YOU GOT IT GOIN ON I MUST SAY, A YOUR FULL TIME JOB A ROCKET SCIENTIST, OR BRAIN SURGEON?
At a certain mph(and I have no idea what that mph may be) YES the air pushing on the front of the car DOES overcome what the engine is pulling in on it's own. THAT is a no brainer.You DO know that cars PUSH air in front of them ....right?THAT alone is what makes ram air possible.
Furthermore, the colder air provided by MY setup is better than a CAI any day, anytime.
It is proven that drag cars with forward facing hood scoops need to be jetted up, WHY...more air.Been there seen that, Carb Mustang went from a cowl type hood to a forward facing scoop sealed to the carb tray and it needed a rejet..why? You tell me, car only ran mid 10's at the same mph I have.You reckon it got more air?
Alas, you just dont get it.
David
The reason they are used on factory cars nowadays like you pointed out is because they look appealing and use buzzwords like "ram air" which the general public - you included - eat up
. Ricers also come with wings from the factory, but does that give them a few tenths in the 1/4? 
. IMO you either horribly overbuilt for your time goals or something really needs tweaking. A huge headed single plain 383 should NOT be in the 11's still. Guess the ram air isn't helping your 60 foot's any You brought it up, but I digress...
12-27-2007, 10:35 PM
#57
Redundancy aside...how little would SURPRISE you . IMO you either horribly overbuilt for your time goals or something really needs tweaking. A huge headed single plain 383 should NOT be in the 11's still. Guess the ram air isn't helping your 60 foot's any You brought it up, but I digress...
Seeing as the car made 463RWHP with two burned pistons(not my fault, bad fuel) through a 4L60E and a 9inch rear and steel driveshaft....my little pumpgas 383 LT1 puts out good power...I still look in the dyno section on this site to see ANY LS1 based engine putting down the same power through a 4L60E and a 9 inch rear...and have yet to see one on pumpgas in street trim! With the two pistons fixed I venture to say it make 475 to the tires! WIth a six speed and a 10 bolt like the dyno queens have it would probably make 520 to the tires.
Weighing 3800lbs raceready does not help, although it IS a REAL streetcar! But seeing as you guys dont believe in ram air, you probably think EVERY car with that much power should run low 10's regardless of weight, or what intake setup it has LMAO!
11.02@124 mph all motor, on pumpgas and drag radials aint bad, once I learn to work the car better 10.80's are in my future, I have only been to the track with it 3 times.
SO when YOU build an all motor 10 second 3800lb streetcar on radials and pumpgas....then you have some room to crack on me.
Until then, get to work,
David
. IMO you either horribly overbuilt for your time goals or something really needs tweaking. A huge headed single plain 383 should NOT be in the 11's still. Guess the ram air isn't helping your 60 foot's any You brought it up, but I digress...Seeing as the car made 463RWHP with two burned pistons(not my fault, bad fuel) through a 4L60E and a 9inch rear and steel driveshaft....my little pumpgas 383 LT1 puts out good power...I still look in the dyno section on this site to see ANY LS1 based engine putting down the same power through a 4L60E and a 9 inch rear...and have yet to see one on pumpgas in street trim! With the two pistons fixed I venture to say it make 475 to the tires! WIth a six speed and a 10 bolt like the dyno queens have it would probably make 520 to the tires.
Weighing 3800lbs raceready does not help, although it IS a REAL streetcar! But seeing as you guys dont believe in ram air, you probably think EVERY car with that much power should run low 10's regardless of weight, or what intake setup it has LMAO!
11.02@124 mph all motor, on pumpgas and drag radials aint bad, once I learn to work the car better 10.80's are in my future, I have only been to the track with it 3 times.
SO when YOU build an all motor 10 second 3800lb streetcar on radials and pumpgas....then you have some room to crack on me.
Until then, get to work,
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 12-27-2007 at 10:40 PM.
12-27-2007, 11:14 PM
#58
Redundancy aside...how little would SURPRISE you . IMO you either horribly overbuilt for your time goals or something really needs tweaking. A huge headed single plain 383 should NOT be in the 11's still. Guess the ram air isn't helping your 60 foot's any You brought it up, but I digress...
Seeing as the car made 463RWHP with two burned pistons(not my fault, bad fuel) through a 4L60E and a 9inch rear and steel driveshaft....my little pumpgas 383 LT1 puts out good power...I still look in the dyno section on this site to see ANY LS1 based engine putting down the same power through a 4L60E and a 9 inch rear...and have yet to see one on pumpgas in street trim! With the two pistons fixed I venture to say it make 475 to the tires! WIth a six speed and a 10 bolt like the dyno queens have it would probably make 520 to the tires.
Weighing 3800lbs raceready does not help, although it IS a REAL streetcar! But seeing as you guys dont believe in ram air, you probably think EVERY car with that much power should run low 10's regardless of weight, or what intake setup it has LMAO!
11.02@124 mph all motor, on pumpgas and drag radials aint bad, once I learn to work the car better 10.80's are in my future, I have only been to the track with it 3 times.
SO when YOU build an all motor 10 second 3800lb streetcar on radials and pumpgas....then you have some room to crack on me.
Until then, get to work,
David
. IMO you either horribly overbuilt for your time goals or something really needs tweaking. A huge headed single plain 383 should NOT be in the 11's still. Guess the ram air isn't helping your 60 foot's any You brought it up, but I digress...Seeing as the car made 463RWHP with two burned pistons(not my fault, bad fuel) through a 4L60E and a 9inch rear and steel driveshaft....my little pumpgas 383 LT1 puts out good power...I still look in the dyno section on this site to see ANY LS1 based engine putting down the same power through a 4L60E and a 9 inch rear...and have yet to see one on pumpgas in street trim! With the two pistons fixed I venture to say it make 475 to the tires! WIth a six speed and a 10 bolt like the dyno queens have it would probably make 520 to the tires.
Weighing 3800lbs raceready does not help, although it IS a REAL streetcar! But seeing as you guys dont believe in ram air, you probably think EVERY car with that much power should run low 10's regardless of weight, or what intake setup it has LMAO!
11.02@124 mph all motor, on pumpgas and drag radials aint bad, once I learn to work the car better 10.80's are in my future, I have only been to the track with it 3 times.
SO when YOU build an all motor 10 second 3800lb streetcar on radials and pumpgas....then you have some room to crack on me.
Until then, get to work,
David
Musta costs a pretty penny for all those go fast parts too 
When you can unlock the potential of your car and get it to run the times it should, then YOU have some room to "crack on me" .Once again, this is not the point of the thread though. As fun as the side arguments are, you keep preaching benefits that do not exist in a street car ram air setup! I could care less how your intake tract feels after driving on the highway - after a hard run I can touch my fuel rails and...GUESS WHAT??? They get cold too
. I can assume that it is not becuase my hood vents are just that awesome though :rollseyes:.You argue as if this debate hasn't been beat to death a million times already...
I can promise you there is far from one person to ditch the crappy stock ram air gimmick for a real CAI and benefit. Sure, your modified setup with no baffles is far superior to the lame stock "ram air", but dont start getting a complex like it is far better then a regular old lid or a good CAI - because no matter what you paid for the conversion it is not.
12-27-2007, 11:23 PM
#59
You are correct. My car only runs mid 11's on motor, and your's is significantly faster. Mine happens to be a fairly mild daily driver too though, which is where you are wrong about not knowing "street cars" - stock ported heads, stock ported intake, "baby" custom HR cam, pumpgas, Lt1 style TB, drag radials, 3200 stall, stock gears...I can go on if you would like. Surely your huge headed, single plain 383 stroker with almost 100 more rwhp then me should run quicker then the .6ths??? Musta costs a pretty penny for all those go fast parts too When you can unlock the potential of your car and get it to run the times it should, then YOU have some room to "crack on me" .
Once again, this is not the point of the thread though. As fun as the side arguments are, you keep preaching benefits that do not exist in a street car ram air setup! I could care less how your intake tract feels after driving on the highway - after a hard run I can touch my fuel rails and...GUESS WHAT??? They get cold too. I can assume that it is not becuase my hood vents are just that awesome though :rollseyes:.
You argue as if this debate hasn't been beat to death a million times already...
I can promise you there is far from one person to ditch the crappy stock ram air gimmick for a real CAI and benefit. Sure, your modified setup with no baffles is far superior to the lame stock "ram air", but dont start getting a complex like it is far better then a regular old lid or a good CAI - because no matter what you paid for the conversion it is not.
Musta costs a pretty penny for all those go fast parts too When you can unlock the potential of your car and get it to run the times it should, then YOU have some room to "crack on me" .Once again, this is not the point of the thread though. As fun as the side arguments are, you keep preaching benefits that do not exist in a street car ram air setup! I could care less how your intake tract feels after driving on the highway - after a hard run I can touch my fuel rails and...GUESS WHAT??? They get cold too
. I can assume that it is not becuase my hood vents are just that awesome though :rollseyes:.You argue as if this debate hasn't been beat to death a million times already...
I can promise you there is far from one person to ditch the crappy stock ram air gimmick for a real CAI and benefit. Sure, your modified setup with no baffles is far superior to the lame stock "ram air", but dont start getting a complex like it is far better then a regular old lid or a good CAI - because no matter what you paid for the conversion it is not.
ANd your cars raceweight is.....................?
And The ACTUAL ET is..................?
The MPH is............?
EDIT...I did a little reading, your best to date is an 11.71 as far as I can tell, at probably 3600ish raceweight. Put My extra 200lbs on YOUR car...puts you pushing 12.0's. ANd for the record an 11.71 is not "mid" 11's...11.60-11.40 is "mid" 11's
Yeh my BIG motor is a FULL second quicker at the same weight. When I get it ironed out it will go a bit quicker.
WIth my 160lb buddy at the wheel, it would have ALREADY run 10.80, I am 330lbs!
Streetcar to streetcar I got you COVERED!
There are 2 options to going fast, and ONLY two. Build more power OR lighten the car...I built more power....and am about to put that power on a diet.
I will get 200 lbs out of the car, get it 60 footing better and run 10.70's...just a matter of time, the MPH is there already...its called POWER, that is what BIG engines make with ram air!
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 12-28-2007 at 07:08 AM.
12-28-2007, 07:59 AM
#60
ANd your cars raceweight is.....................?
And The ACTUAL ET is..................?
The MPH is............?
EDIT...I did a little reading, your best to date is an 11.71 as far as I can tell, at probably 3600ish raceweight. Put My extra 200lbs on YOUR car...puts you pushing 12.0's. ANd for the record an 11.71 is not "mid" 11's...11.60-11.40 is "mid" 11's
Yeh my BIG motor is a FULL second quicker at the same weight. When I get it ironed out it will go a bit quicker.
WIth my 160lb buddy at the wheel, it would have ALREADY run 10.80, I am 330lbs!
Streetcar to streetcar I got you COVERED!
There are 2 options to going fast, and ONLY two. Build more power OR lighten the car...I built more power....and am about to put that power on a diet.
I will get 200 lbs out of the car, get it 60 footing better and run 10.70's...just a matter of time, the MPH is there already...its called POWER, that is what BIG engines make with ram air!
David
And The ACTUAL ET is..................?
The MPH is............?
EDIT...I did a little reading, your best to date is an 11.71 as far as I can tell, at probably 3600ish raceweight. Put My extra 200lbs on YOUR car...puts you pushing 12.0's. ANd for the record an 11.71 is not "mid" 11's...11.60-11.40 is "mid" 11's
Yeh my BIG motor is a FULL second quicker at the same weight. When I get it ironed out it will go a bit quicker.
WIth my 160lb buddy at the wheel, it would have ALREADY run 10.80, I am 330lbs!
Streetcar to streetcar I got you COVERED!
There are 2 options to going fast, and ONLY two. Build more power OR lighten the car...I built more power....and am about to put that power on a diet.
I will get 200 lbs out of the car, get it 60 footing better and run 10.70's...just a matter of time, the MPH is there already...its called POWER, that is what BIG engines make with ram air!
David
. Of course you should have me "covered" - look at all the crap you have on there! Does not change the fact that you have a mid-high 10 second car still in the 11's Seems like you did your homework, but can't get it all to the ground!Taking shots at my car is useless - it runs pretty well for what it is...a tired old DD LT1
***BACK ON TOPIC***
What my car runs has nothing to do with the fact that ram air is almost useless on a street/strip car. If those nostrils were facing backwards or sideways you would run the same times and make the same power in the 1/4.