Any one put a double roller on there lt1, any problems or did it come out good

 

I've been running a Cloyes 9-3145 double-roller for many years now.

Pros:
-Strong
-Only costs $90

Cons:
-Requires 1995+ style optispark/camshaft/timing cover/etc.
-Causes clearance issues with 1996-1997 crank position sensors. Not sure how people combat this issue, other than to remove the crank sensor.
-Requires clearancing of the back of the timing cover to fit without interference. However, severity seems to vary from car-to-car.

[Edit] Whoops! -Forgot to mention that it requires an electric waterpump due to the cam gear. VVVV

 

Well I Have A 95 Opti And Cover So Im Good There And Im Guessing This Price Includes The Gears Needed And Of Course Chain! Thanks For Ur Help Man! Did U Get It From Jegs Or Is It Popular Enough That A Local Shop Will Have It, Standard For A Small Block Chevy Right

 

Maybe you should ask about who has ever had an issue with a stock setup?

 

I converted to an electric water pump and got the Summit brand double roller. As Alex94TAGT said above, I had clearance issues with the crank position sensor and the timing cover. I got a single roller and have had no problems. No problem with stock one but it had 150K on it and I was rebuilding the entire engine.

 

Also, FWIT for me it was about the same cost to upgrade to an electric water pump and use the cheaper timing chain rather than use the LT1 specific timing chain.

 

hes got an electric pump now and about to pull the motor apart and hes wanting to do a double roller....

btw he needs to make a sig so every1 knows what car he has but its a 1994 z stock right now with a th350...

 

Everyone wants to use cheaper and stronger as excuses to swap out the stock setup but breaking stock chains is exceptional;ly rare and last I priced it the whole 3 piece set was only about $60 compared to the $80 guys often spend on supposedly cheaper setups.

Problem is people ASSume the LT4 ED setup is better and somehow necessary and frankly I am aware of more failures of those than stock sets. They compare prices too that.

 

Its One Of Those Things U Want To Have It Not Cuz U Need It I Guess, I Already Have All The Other Stuff Just Got To Buy The Timing Set Up Was Mainly Wanting To See If Was Hard To Do, But Im Seeing Its A Easy Mod So Ill Do It!

 

Hell thats a good deal! Where did you find a LT1 chain for that price? I couldn't find one under $200! Once I decided to go with the elec. WP I didn't need the LT1 chain. As I said I got 150K out of mine wth no issues, the chain I have now was like $35.

 

Honestly it has been awhile, but I paid that from Combination Motorsports which is no longer around. If they were selling it for that though sombody else can come close.

Just in 07 I bought an oversizes crank gear to take up the slack in a stock chain for $20, still in the box on a shelf but I have it for if and when I am in the engine again.

 

The 2nd Post Down That Helped Me He Said It Would Cost $90 For The Cloyes 9-3145 And I Had Already Heard From Friends That It Was A 90 Dollar Mod So Its Cheap Enough And Cant Hurt I Figure

 

10128346 LT1 Link-Chain Timing Set Crank Sprocket $25.xx from GMpartsdirect
10128485 LT1 Link-Chain Timing Set Link Chain $28.xx from gmpartsdirect
10126039 95+ LT1 Link-Chain Timing Set Cam Sprocket or 94 + B-body unavailable from gmparts direct

Oversized crank gear cloyes S505

There are better sources than that online store but this gives you an idea.
These are from an Impala related source so they assume a vented opti.

 

When I did heads/cam in 2005, I replaced the timing chain and sprockets(cam,crank,waterpump) with new gm parts. Still in time without skipping a beat. Even w/150 shot.

 

So? The $20 difference wouldn't even fill up my gas tank.

The only viable source you've provided is GMPD, which doesn't even support your claims:
10128346 1993-1997 LT1 crank sprocket: $25.26 + $5.56 s&h
10206039 1995-1997 LT1 cam sprocket: $32.94 + $10.95 s&h
10128485 1993-1997 LT1 timing chain: $28.68 + $6.31 s&h

In total, a stock 1995 LT1 timing set shipped to your door from GMPD is $109.70. (If you live in NH, it's $115.56.)

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So, the Cloyes is actually $20 cheaper, and you'd be getting a true double-roller as opposed to the factory stiff-back/link-belt design. The better "cost" argument is that the Cloyes requires additional components to work, which can add up quickly, albeit they provide a few extra horsepower at the same time. I've never personally heard of the Cloyes double-roller failing.

To be fair, it's true that the factory sets don't often fail. I've only seen 2 or 3 cases online in the past 7 years. However, they develop an 'uncomfortable' amount of slack even after 100 miles, so at very least consider the aforementioned oversize crank gear.

 

So I Should Go With The Cloyes Set Up We Talked About At First And All I Spend Is 90 Bucks!!

 

That's your decision to make -- not ours.

FYI -- With the above combo (electric waterpump, 1995 optispark/cam/timing cover, and no 1996-1997 crank position sensor, etc.), you can technically run (almost) any 1987-and-newer SBC timing set. A few people have even converted to gear drives, though they were quickly removed, and not at all recommended.

I can bore you with more information, but I think I'll step out now. PM me if you have any further questions on the Cloyes 3145. -I've got pictures of the required clearancing and whatnot.

 

Good point!! I had a leaky crank seal a few years back, and since I had to pull it down fairly far to fix it, I thought I'd change the timing set while I was there. I bought a Cloyes LT-1 replacement set, and I know it was well over $100 even at jobber wholesale.

As if that wasn't bad enough, the new cam gear wasn't machined correctly, and when I installed it, the gear locked up against the block. I removed it, and took all the critical measurements and compared it to the OE gear, and found one dimension was off. I called Cloyes directly to discuss the situation. Their reply was "the dimensions were on the nominal of the spec, don't know what to tell you". Fortunately I have access to mills and lathes......

 

I for one would never put a stock chain in my car espcially w/ nitrous....i chose the extreme duty chain, when i did the heads/cam and will be going to an e-waterpump and double roller once i get the direct port manifold on the car.

 

Thanks for the help and advice, i know my plan of action now just glad i was lucky and already had the right foundation to build on lol!!