My New 1993 Z28 Project
#221
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Probably right around 7lbs of boost. I'm going to see what I can push it up to once we set it up to run on alcohol. You might now have to wait too much longer on the turbo plumbing. I need to buy a K member and a cage / headliner and the K member is definetly the cheaper of the two options.
#222
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I fiddled with everything last night trying to determine what things are. Here's everything I've managed to remove up until this point.
I really need some help identifying plugs and figuring out what I can remove. If you could answer any of these questions it would be greatly appreciated.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=219
I messed with removing a bunch of stuff from my Formula today so no updates on this one. I'm kind of at a point where I can't do much more other than the wiring because I have no money. I grabbed a bunch of my parts sitting around. I'm going to be making a for sale thread shortly and I'll put a link up.
I really need some help identifying plugs and figuring out what I can remove. If you could answer any of these questions it would be greatly appreciated.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=219
I messed with removing a bunch of stuff from my Formula today so no updates on this one. I'm kind of at a point where I can't do much more other than the wiring because I have no money. I grabbed a bunch of my parts sitting around. I'm going to be making a for sale thread shortly and I'll put a link up.
#225
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From: Jax Beach, Florida
I haven't been messing with the car too much recently. I did do a little work today and added some ideas to what I plan on doing to the car.
I was given a set of hatch struts from a member that I am very thankful of. Unfortunately, they weren't in as good of shape as my current ones. I took both sets on and off a couple times. I also almost managed to loose one of my fingers. That hatch is freakishly heavy without the struts on there. With that in mind I decided to take off the two plastic covers and look for any areas where I could remove weight from the hatch.
I've been getting sick of loading an unloading the car. I went through everything and decided all of this crap is not going back on the car.
I'll just make something out of some really thin aluminum or leave it.
During which time I noticed the spare tire area was full of metal shavings. I broke out a pen magnet and went to work for about half an hour attempting to clean it out. It took a long time because this was just sticking it in the spare tire area and not even moving it around:
There's still tons of metal shavings all over the car. I need to wheel the vacuum over to the car and go to town.
During which time I had the oddest looking bug ever fly up and land on my car:
Since I had already removed the wire for the rear defroster in the wiring harness I removed the rest of the associated wiring:
I still need to fix the yellow wire for the brake light in the spoiler.
The last thing I did was look at all the areas on the hatch and decide where I can remove material from. I believe the hatch is made from the same material as the doors. I plan on doing the same sort of thing I did to the doors to the hatch.
I have a few new plans that I'm thinking about doing to the car. I got a little lucky and I should have some money that I can invest in this car to get it running soon. I'm going to do a little research, but here's what I'm thinking:
Drivetrain:
- TH350 = Already have, but $$$ to build up a little
- 3000ish Stall = Can get really cheaply
- Moly DS = $$$
- 3.73-3.90 gears in the 10 bolt = $$$, but I think I can get some 4.10s super cheap $50ish if they aren't broken.
- 15x10 prostars with 325/50/15s = $$$
Ignition:
- !Opti -> Low profile distributor with crank trigger = $$$, but I can sell my brand new Opti to offset some of the cost.
Does anyone with a 93 intake manifold have a distributor in there? Pictures? What did you have to relocated?
- 2 step
- I plan on pulling the heads and doing a valve job / light porting job. I might be able to throw a set of springs in there too.
- Quite possibly a cam and associated parts (doubtful $$$)?
Thoughts?
I was given a set of hatch struts from a member that I am very thankful of. Unfortunately, they weren't in as good of shape as my current ones. I took both sets on and off a couple times. I also almost managed to loose one of my fingers. That hatch is freakishly heavy without the struts on there. With that in mind I decided to take off the two plastic covers and look for any areas where I could remove weight from the hatch.
I've been getting sick of loading an unloading the car. I went through everything and decided all of this crap is not going back on the car.
I'll just make something out of some really thin aluminum or leave it.
During which time I noticed the spare tire area was full of metal shavings. I broke out a pen magnet and went to work for about half an hour attempting to clean it out. It took a long time because this was just sticking it in the spare tire area and not even moving it around:
There's still tons of metal shavings all over the car. I need to wheel the vacuum over to the car and go to town.
During which time I had the oddest looking bug ever fly up and land on my car:
Since I had already removed the wire for the rear defroster in the wiring harness I removed the rest of the associated wiring:
I still need to fix the yellow wire for the brake light in the spoiler.
The last thing I did was look at all the areas on the hatch and decide where I can remove material from. I believe the hatch is made from the same material as the doors. I plan on doing the same sort of thing I did to the doors to the hatch.
I have a few new plans that I'm thinking about doing to the car. I got a little lucky and I should have some money that I can invest in this car to get it running soon. I'm going to do a little research, but here's what I'm thinking:
Drivetrain:
- TH350 = Already have, but $$$ to build up a little
- 3000ish Stall = Can get really cheaply
- Moly DS = $$$
- 3.73-3.90 gears in the 10 bolt = $$$, but I think I can get some 4.10s super cheap $50ish if they aren't broken.
- 15x10 prostars with 325/50/15s = $$$
Ignition:
- !Opti -> Low profile distributor with crank trigger = $$$, but I can sell my brand new Opti to offset some of the cost.
Does anyone with a 93 intake manifold have a distributor in there? Pictures? What did you have to relocated?
- 2 step
- I plan on pulling the heads and doing a valve job / light porting job. I might be able to throw a set of springs in there too.
- Quite possibly a cam and associated parts (doubtful $$$)?
Thoughts?
#226
Sorry those hatch struts didn't work out for ya. I guess the Camaro's hatch is much heavier than the Firebird hatch, because they used to work great on my old hatch. Glad you still have your finger though
#230
there used to be a company in Dallas called L.A.P. lightning auto performance. they would modify the LT1 intakes to run a distributor for about $200. your other choice is to source a ram jet intake or a tpis miniram/holley stealth ram.
i thank you for so many pictures of things taken apart, it really helps get the wheels turning for my project.
i thank you for so many pictures of things taken apart, it really helps get the wheels turning for my project.
#231
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From: Jax Beach, Florida
there used to be a company in Dallas called L.A.P. lightning auto performance. they would modify the LT1 intakes to run a distributor for about $200. your other choice is to source a ram jet intake or a tpis miniram/holley stealth ram.
i thank you for so many pictures of things taken apart, it really helps get the wheels turning for my project.
i thank you for so many pictures of things taken apart, it really helps get the wheels turning for my project.
#233
#234
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From: Jax Beach, Florida
I've been doing some research on transmissions.
4l60 roughly = 175 lbs wet
4l80e roughly = 255 lbs wet
TH-350 roughly = 130 lbs wet
In switching to the TH-350 I'd save 45 lbs right away. Then, throw in the weight of a lighter convertor and I'm probably around 60 lbs lighter. With a 325/50/15 and 3.73 gears I'd be at 3157 rpms I'd be going 70 mph. 6500 rpms puts me at 144.10 mph. That should do pretty well in the quarter mile. I'm still not completely sure if I want to loose my OD though.
I've been looking at the delteq and the LTCC, but I'm not a big fan of them still using the Opti for optical input. I want to completely get rid of the thing.
Agreed.
4l60 roughly = 175 lbs wet
4l80e roughly = 255 lbs wet
TH-350 roughly = 130 lbs wet
In switching to the TH-350 I'd save 45 lbs right away. Then, throw in the weight of a lighter convertor and I'm probably around 60 lbs lighter. With a 325/50/15 and 3.73 gears I'd be at 3157 rpms I'd be going 70 mph. 6500 rpms puts me at 144.10 mph. That should do pretty well in the quarter mile. I'm still not completely sure if I want to loose my OD though.
I've been looking at the delteq and the LTCC, but I'm not a big fan of them still using the Opti for optical input. I want to completely get rid of the thing.
Agreed.
#237
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From: Jax Beach, Florida
In reality to get to the point I'm at now shouldn't take nearly that long. I work really slowly and take my time doing things. It's also about 100+ degrees every day and that doesn't help. If I was to do this again to a car I could probably get it all knocked out in around a week of working about 10 hours a day.
#238
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From: Jax Beach, Florida
I got a little bit done yesterday, but it started raining so I didn't get to what I wanted to do. I just went through the steering column and pulled out the wires for the horn and the trigger for the airbag. During which time I tried to pop off the covers around the blinker lever. Around that time this damn thing fell out:
It's the little lever that controls the high beams and the blinkers. I spent around an hour and a half trying to figure out how the hell this thing goes back in there. All the while getting more and more pissed off. Eventually, I figured it out and got a little lucky in return. My high beam switch used to not work. I'm guessing that's because this thing had come disconnected. It now functions exactly as it should.
After I got the switch back in I pulled the steering wheel off and removed the controller for the driver's side air bag. It has a little retaining ring around it that you'll need to remove by expanding it with a set pliers. Once I got that off I just pried out the controller. I wasn't worried about saving it so I just cut the plug off the other end of the steering column and pulled the wire through.
(I know I need to clean the car out)
Can I remove any of this other stuff?
Here's everything I removed:
I also took some pictures of what I was talking about with the odd setup on the intake manifolds:
The fuel lines run pretty much exactly where I want to put the distributor. I'm pretty sure I can reroute all of those things when I redo the fuel system. Thoughts???
Clearance wise I think it will be far enough back to where it will clear the windshield wiper. I think I can cut the underside of the cowl, flip it over, and reweld it to make a lot more clearance. The back of the intake is right around the area where the cowl dips down behind the wiper motor:
I'm going to work on my Formula on Thursday and finish getting it cleaned off and ready to work on. Friday, I'm going to be back on this one. I want to finally get the hatch cut up and put the covers back on it. I think it would be easiest to pull the hatch off and cut everything out to avoid the mess. Has anyone ever pulled one off before? How much work is it to get it to line back up again?
It's the little lever that controls the high beams and the blinkers. I spent around an hour and a half trying to figure out how the hell this thing goes back in there. All the while getting more and more pissed off. Eventually, I figured it out and got a little lucky in return. My high beam switch used to not work. I'm guessing that's because this thing had come disconnected. It now functions exactly as it should.
After I got the switch back in I pulled the steering wheel off and removed the controller for the driver's side air bag. It has a little retaining ring around it that you'll need to remove by expanding it with a set pliers. Once I got that off I just pried out the controller. I wasn't worried about saving it so I just cut the plug off the other end of the steering column and pulled the wire through.
(I know I need to clean the car out)
Can I remove any of this other stuff?
Here's everything I removed:
I also took some pictures of what I was talking about with the odd setup on the intake manifolds:
The fuel lines run pretty much exactly where I want to put the distributor. I'm pretty sure I can reroute all of those things when I redo the fuel system. Thoughts???
Clearance wise I think it will be far enough back to where it will clear the windshield wiper. I think I can cut the underside of the cowl, flip it over, and reweld it to make a lot more clearance. The back of the intake is right around the area where the cowl dips down behind the wiper motor:
I'm going to work on my Formula on Thursday and finish getting it cleaned off and ready to work on. Friday, I'm going to be back on this one. I want to finally get the hatch cut up and put the covers back on it. I think it would be easiest to pull the hatch off and cut everything out to avoid the mess. Has anyone ever pulled one off before? How much work is it to get it to line back up again?
#240
for the fuel lines, convert to a 94 and newer intake, it has the cross over at the front of the rails rather than behind them like on a 93 or a vette. this is why you see 2 different LT1 regulators. make sure you get the matching lines or just have them fitted w/ AN's.