My New 1993 Z28 Project
05-08-2009, 10:02 PM
#382
I don't know about baddest car, but it should be one hell of a street sleeper. I'm going to leave it looking completely stock except for the cage. All of the interior panels, carpeting, headliner, two normal (non aluminum) race seats, AC, PS, dual stage fuel system. It should weigh in around the 2900-3000 lb range with me in it once I am done and make around 12-1300 rwhp. I'm hoping for some 8.20s around 170ish.
05-09-2009, 11:36 AM
#385
It is going to be a long time until this thing is running. I have a humongous pile of parts at this point. I may put the engine together when I put the one for my Formula together, but I'll probably spend the money on getting the car setup chassis wise.
05-10-2009, 09:05 AM
#386
TECH Resident
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Nope, that is how large it is. The box it came in was 70 something pounds and massive. My jaw pretty much dropped when I pulled it out of the box. I thought it was all just packaging. I'd say the thing weighs in the 55-6x pound range.
It is the roughly the same physical size as the one on the gold car, but internally it is different. It is good for around 1800-1900hp where the one on the gold car is a 106 and good for around 2400-2500 hp.
It is the roughly the same physical size as the one on the gold car, but internally it is different. It is good for around 1800-1900hp where the one on the gold car is a 106 and good for around 2400-2500 hp.
http://forcedinductions.com/productsFI1.htm
How do u compare it to the size of S91? Do you think it will swap in place of S91, OFI kit?
05-10-2009, 07:53 PM
#387
I couldn't find it on FI web site!
http://forcedinductions.com/productsFI1.htm
How do u compare it to the size of S91? Do you think it will swap in place of S91, OFI kit?
http://forcedinductions.com/productsFI1.htm
How do u compare it to the size of S91? Do you think it will swap in place of S91, OFI kit?
Compare:
GT4202
S95:
If you can find an S95 out there I seriously doubt it would fit in place of a kit designed for a S91. There's a local guy with a S91 in his trans am and this thing makes it look small.
06-06-2009, 08:45 PM
#388
It's been a long time since I've managed to do anything related to this car due to saving money to buy parts for my Formula, but... I'm taking some steps in the right direction. My good friend and I recently happened upon a really good deal on here and decided to call the guy. My friend was looking at a 1999 Z28 Roller that was for sale for $1000. It is pretty much exactly what he was looking for. He had bought his car for $200 with a monstrous dent in the side and did the whole V6 --> LS1 swap. His car is rather beat up, but it runs.
He'd been looking for a really nice body for a while. I told him I would front him part of the money and he could pay me back so we went for it. I told him to call the guy and set it up. When he called the guy who owned it he said he also had a 2000 V6 car that had been in a wreck for $150 and a moly 10 point cage out of a convertible also for $150. We got him to send us pictures and everything looked good. We jumped on it and bought everything from him. It all came on one really large trailer yesterday.
Here's the roller for my friend. It is in about as many pieces as it could possibly be, but we're going to be Frankensteining the three cars back together into one really nice one soon. It is currently camping out with my 95 in the driveway.
It is a super clean car and for the price it was a great deal. We just need to put it back together. Of course he wants me to work some of my weight reduction magic on it.
This is the V6 car I bought that had been in a wreck. It definetly got smacked pretty hard and the whole passenger side of the car is pretty much gone. It is taking up about all of the available space in my garage. I need to get rid of that random wall in my garage. Once it is out of there it will make my garage a viable option for working on things.
I've alreay started taking the interior apart. I lucked out on the color options and the fact that it is a hard top. The interior is ebony and the head liner is in pretty much perfect condition. I am really excited about that as I can now pretty much put the whole interior back into my 93 once the cage goes in. This is everything I've pulled out so far of the car.
10 point moly cage. I need to do some measuring on this. The main hoop looks really short. I think when they removed it they cut part of the bars instead of cutting them at the weld in base pads. In which case I would not be very happy. If anyone has the measurements on their 10 point cage I would really appreciate it. If you could just measure the total length of the main hoop, how tall it is in the center of the car, and the length of the top bars that go by your head it would help my out a whole lot in figuring this thing out. At the very least I plan on removing the X bar and redoing the front bars so they go through the dash board.
I am leaving Wednesday for a week, but when I get back I am going to call the guy who I want to install my cage and talk prices. I want to see what he can do with this thing and go from there. Once that is in I am going to put in all of the interior panels, body harness wiring, and dash. I am not sure if I want to stick with my 93 dash or put the one of of the wrecked car in there. I like the ebony, but I also have the gauge pods that I spent a lot of time on molding into my 93 dash. Thoughts?
He'd been looking for a really nice body for a while. I told him I would front him part of the money and he could pay me back so we went for it. I told him to call the guy and set it up. When he called the guy who owned it he said he also had a 2000 V6 car that had been in a wreck for $150 and a moly 10 point cage out of a convertible also for $150. We got him to send us pictures and everything looked good. We jumped on it and bought everything from him. It all came on one really large trailer yesterday.
Here's the roller for my friend. It is in about as many pieces as it could possibly be, but we're going to be Frankensteining the three cars back together into one really nice one soon. It is currently camping out with my 95 in the driveway.
It is a super clean car and for the price it was a great deal. We just need to put it back together. Of course he wants me to work some of my weight reduction magic on it.
This is the V6 car I bought that had been in a wreck. It definetly got smacked pretty hard and the whole passenger side of the car is pretty much gone. It is taking up about all of the available space in my garage. I need to get rid of that random wall in my garage. Once it is out of there it will make my garage a viable option for working on things.
I've alreay started taking the interior apart. I lucked out on the color options and the fact that it is a hard top. The interior is ebony and the head liner is in pretty much perfect condition. I am really excited about that as I can now pretty much put the whole interior back into my 93 once the cage goes in. This is everything I've pulled out so far of the car.
10 point moly cage. I need to do some measuring on this. The main hoop looks really short. I think when they removed it they cut part of the bars instead of cutting them at the weld in base pads. In which case I would not be very happy. If anyone has the measurements on their 10 point cage I would really appreciate it. If you could just measure the total length of the main hoop, how tall it is in the center of the car, and the length of the top bars that go by your head it would help my out a whole lot in figuring this thing out. At the very least I plan on removing the X bar and redoing the front bars so they go through the dash board.
I am leaving Wednesday for a week, but when I get back I am going to call the guy who I want to install my cage and talk prices. I want to see what he can do with this thing and go from there. Once that is in I am going to put in all of the interior panels, body harness wiring, and dash. I am not sure if I want to stick with my 93 dash or put the one of of the wrecked car in there. I like the ebony, but I also have the gauge pods that I spent a lot of time on molding into my 93 dash. Thoughts?
06-07-2009, 07:51 PM
#391
I worked on the car a little bit today. I am starting to run out of space to work on things so I just removed what I was going to be putting in my 93 and left the rest for right now. I did go through the car and throw away a bunch of the random crap that was in there that neither of us need or would be able to sell. I managed to get the headliner (with out destroying it), door panel, rear dome light, and the rest of the interior panels out of the car.
I am pretty excited about having a headliner in good shape. As you can see it only has a couple spots on it that need to be cleaned off. Other than that it is perfect.
The only slight problem I've had so far is rather self explanatory:
I tried prying it off, but that didn't seem to work. I'm not too worried about it as I have a lot of time to get it off, but it is rather annoying.
Once I got through that stuff I decided to orient my cage and take some measurements.
I had to move that blueish chair and transmission. I managed to drop that chair on one of my toes which wasn't too much fun.
I then took the driver's seat out of the car with the manual seat slider still attached to it and shoved it under the cage. I shimmed it up to the correct orientation and the way it would sit in the car. I have the seat back all the way forward like when you pull the side handle and then push it back to it's first stopping point.
I sat in it and hit my head on the front bar instanteously. I was thinking that my fears were confirmed and the people cut it way too short. I started doing some measurements and then realized a few things.
MEASUREMENTS:
Main Hoop:
A 38.9 inches tall from the ground to the highest point on bar.
B 46.5 inches wide from the absolute lowest point
C 108.5 inches in length. I measured the whole main hoop with a tape measurer.
Top Bars that form the square:
D 36.5 inches wide at the front of the square
E 27.5 inches wide at the rear of the square
F 23.5 inches long from the rear to the front of the square
Door Bars:
G 53 inches long
Front of the Cage:
52 inches wide at the front of the cage. From where the door bars meet the floor. I measured from the driver's side to the passenger side.
Rough Drawing. I hope you aren't color blind because I am and this was tough.
After smashing my head a few times I decided to measure inside of the car. The first thing I realized is that when people install cages they put the main hoop on this area:
That will of course raise the cage up a few inches from where I was measuring. I measured roughly 4 inches of added height to be achieved from installing it on that raised area.
When shooting for an 8.50 certification with a cage is there a rule on how thick your mounting plates can be? Let's say my cage was cut short and that it is too low. I know the standard mounting plates are rather thin. Could I say use a 2 or 3 inch thick plate to weld to the car to raise the bar up? I know it would add quite a bit of weight, but I can easily offset that with other things I plan on cutting out.
I am pretty excited about having a headliner in good shape. As you can see it only has a couple spots on it that need to be cleaned off. Other than that it is perfect.
The only slight problem I've had so far is rather self explanatory:
I tried prying it off, but that didn't seem to work. I'm not too worried about it as I have a lot of time to get it off, but it is rather annoying.
Once I got through that stuff I decided to orient my cage and take some measurements.
I had to move that blueish chair and transmission. I managed to drop that chair on one of my toes which wasn't too much fun.
I then took the driver's seat out of the car with the manual seat slider still attached to it and shoved it under the cage. I shimmed it up to the correct orientation and the way it would sit in the car. I have the seat back all the way forward like when you pull the side handle and then push it back to it's first stopping point.
I sat in it and hit my head on the front bar instanteously. I was thinking that my fears were confirmed and the people cut it way too short. I started doing some measurements and then realized a few things.
MEASUREMENTS:
Main Hoop:
A 38.9 inches tall from the ground to the highest point on bar.
B 46.5 inches wide from the absolute lowest point
C 108.5 inches in length. I measured the whole main hoop with a tape measurer.
Top Bars that form the square:
D 36.5 inches wide at the front of the square
E 27.5 inches wide at the rear of the square
F 23.5 inches long from the rear to the front of the square
Door Bars:
G 53 inches long
Front of the Cage:
52 inches wide at the front of the cage. From where the door bars meet the floor. I measured from the driver's side to the passenger side.
Rough Drawing. I hope you aren't color blind because I am and this was tough.
After smashing my head a few times I decided to measure inside of the car. The first thing I realized is that when people install cages they put the main hoop on this area:
That will of course raise the cage up a few inches from where I was measuring. I measured roughly 4 inches of added height to be achieved from installing it on that raised area.
When shooting for an 8.50 certification with a cage is there a rule on how thick your mounting plates can be? Let's say my cage was cut short and that it is too low. I know the standard mounting plates are rather thin. Could I say use a 2 or 3 inch thick plate to weld to the car to raise the bar up? I know it would add quite a bit of weight, but I can easily offset that with other things I plan on cutting out.
06-22-2009, 08:34 PM
#393
This is my fourth time typing this out. I swear if my computer freezes or someone closes this again I'll smash something.
Thanks. The car should look a lot better than it currently does. Hopefully soon the cage will be going in, along with the interior wiring, and the rest of the interior.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
While I was gone I received one more small piece for the build. I bought a set of AFR 8000 valve springs from TWS, a member on here, and a fellow owner of a large amount of F Bodies, except most of his work.
The AFR 8000 springs are comprable to the Comp Cams 26089 valve springs I was planning on running, but I got these for a great price so it was hard to pass up. Comparison wise they are very close:
Part Number: AFR-8000
Size: 1.540 OD, .800 ID
Seat Load: 225# @ 1.950
Open Load: 600# @ 1.250
Material: Chrome Silicon
Coil Bind: 1.155
Rate(lbs/in): 550
Max. Recom. Lift: .710
Part Number: 26089
Size: 1.550 OD, .812 ID
Seat Load: 230# @ 2.00
Open Load: 580# @ 1.300
Coil Bind: 1.230
Rate(lbs./in.): 500
Max. Recom. Lift: .750
I should be able to get a set of titanium retainers for around $60 as long as they have them in stock. I just need to figure out a couple things and make the call.
I have a set of ported 806 perimeter bolt cylinder heads that I plan on putting them on. The heads are set up for solid roller, have guide plates, screw in studs, clearanced for 3/8ths pushrods, cut for 1.550 springs, and been O ringed. They are a nice set of heads for the price I got them for. They need to be cleaned up a little, but for the less than $1000 I'll have in them assembled with titanium intake valves and massive springs I will be very happy.
Here are a couple shots of the springs on the head:
That is an 1.290 OD, TEA .660 lift valve spring on the left with the AFR 8000 on the right.
The thing is I don't have a set of calipers to do some measuring so I need some help. From what I can roughly tell and was told by the previous owner of these heads is that they were cut for 1.550 springs. I took the spring base that came with the AFR springs and dropped them on the heads.
The AFR springs are a 1.540 OD, but I'm not sure of the OD of the spring base. In the picture the base isn't centered on the guide, but there still appears to be a small amount of extra space around the base. How much horizontal clearance should I have in regards to the head and spring base?
The other thing I am not too sure about is the clearance around the valve guide in relation to the guide's OD and the spring base's ID. I took my 1.290 OD, 8mm spring base from my TEA springs and tried to drop it over the guide... Well....
As you can see it doesn't even come close to seating against the head (front one). I then took my AFR 8000 spring base that was originally on a set of LT1 AFR 210cc heads and dropped it on there. It cleared with room to spare. I can tell there is obviously some sort of issue as 806 heads have 8mm ID guides, but maybe someone switched them, and had to install a larger OD guide? I'm also wondering how much horizontal clearance I should have with regards to the ID of the spring base and the OD of the guide. I know you have to fit a valve seal on there and I'd rather not have a set of heads that leak oil.
Any help in regards to setting up my heads would be greatly appreciated.
I am also still looking for cage measurements. I had a few people say they would measure them for me, but I haven't heard anything back yet. I'd like to know if this cage I have will fit in my car before I take the effort to drive it across town.
Thanks. The car should look a lot better than it currently does. Hopefully soon the cage will be going in, along with the interior wiring, and the rest of the interior.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
While I was gone I received one more small piece for the build. I bought a set of AFR 8000 valve springs from TWS, a member on here, and a fellow owner of a large amount of F Bodies, except most of his work.
The AFR 8000 springs are comprable to the Comp Cams 26089 valve springs I was planning on running, but I got these for a great price so it was hard to pass up. Comparison wise they are very close:
Part Number: AFR-8000
Size: 1.540 OD, .800 ID
Seat Load: 225# @ 1.950
Open Load: 600# @ 1.250
Material: Chrome Silicon
Coil Bind: 1.155
Rate(lbs/in): 550
Max. Recom. Lift: .710
Part Number: 26089
Size: 1.550 OD, .812 ID
Seat Load: 230# @ 2.00
Open Load: 580# @ 1.300
Coil Bind: 1.230
Rate(lbs./in.): 500
Max. Recom. Lift: .750
I should be able to get a set of titanium retainers for around $60 as long as they have them in stock. I just need to figure out a couple things and make the call.
I have a set of ported 806 perimeter bolt cylinder heads that I plan on putting them on. The heads are set up for solid roller, have guide plates, screw in studs, clearanced for 3/8ths pushrods, cut for 1.550 springs, and been O ringed. They are a nice set of heads for the price I got them for. They need to be cleaned up a little, but for the less than $1000 I'll have in them assembled with titanium intake valves and massive springs I will be very happy.
Here are a couple shots of the springs on the head:
That is an 1.290 OD, TEA .660 lift valve spring on the left with the AFR 8000 on the right.
The thing is I don't have a set of calipers to do some measuring so I need some help. From what I can roughly tell and was told by the previous owner of these heads is that they were cut for 1.550 springs. I took the spring base that came with the AFR springs and dropped them on the heads.
The AFR springs are a 1.540 OD, but I'm not sure of the OD of the spring base. In the picture the base isn't centered on the guide, but there still appears to be a small amount of extra space around the base. How much horizontal clearance should I have in regards to the head and spring base?
The other thing I am not too sure about is the clearance around the valve guide in relation to the guide's OD and the spring base's ID. I took my 1.290 OD, 8mm spring base from my TEA springs and tried to drop it over the guide... Well....
As you can see it doesn't even come close to seating against the head (front one). I then took my AFR 8000 spring base that was originally on a set of LT1 AFR 210cc heads and dropped it on there. It cleared with room to spare. I can tell there is obviously some sort of issue as 806 heads have 8mm ID guides, but maybe someone switched them, and had to install a larger OD guide? I'm also wondering how much horizontal clearance I should have with regards to the ID of the spring base and the OD of the guide. I know you have to fit a valve seal on there and I'd rather not have a set of heads that leak oil.
Any help in regards to setting up my heads would be greatly appreciated.
I am also still looking for cage measurements. I had a few people say they would measure them for me, but I haven't heard anything back yet. I'd like to know if this cage I have will fit in my car before I take the effort to drive it across town.
07-02-2009, 09:05 PM
#394
I still need some help on some things and decided to post a picture that I had been talking about for a long time. My friend and I have been continuing to work on stripping the wrecked car in my garage. As of now all of the interior panels, wiring, steering column, dash board, heater lines, and brake booster are out of it. We are on a temporary break because I got all four of my wisdom teeth removed earlier today. It isn't bad yet, but I'm sure it will be.
I now have some time off of work so I am going to try and figure out a few things for this car as I'm going to have plenty of free time.
1. I still need the cage measurements. If anyone could help me out with this I could figure out if I could actually use this thing. I no one can pull through I'll probably end up calling someone even though I can't talk that well right now and struggle through it.
2. I need assistance in figuring out how much clearance I should have in regards to the valve spring seats. That's something I could actually get started on so I'll probably shoot Brian Tooley a PM and have him help me out. I need to talk to him anyways so it is an added advantage.
Quite a few pages ago I was working on the interior harness of the car. I had a lot of questions that went unanswered so I just started chasing wires and trimming. Here's everything I managed to get out of the interior harness of the car:
It is quite a bit of wires and took me a very long time to get them out. I'm guessing it is probably in the 15-20lb range, but I'm not sure.
I now have some time off of work so I am going to try and figure out a few things for this car as I'm going to have plenty of free time.
1. I still need the cage measurements. If anyone could help me out with this I could figure out if I could actually use this thing. I no one can pull through I'll probably end up calling someone even though I can't talk that well right now and struggle through it.
2. I need assistance in figuring out how much clearance I should have in regards to the valve spring seats. That's something I could actually get started on so I'll probably shoot Brian Tooley a PM and have him help me out. I need to talk to him anyways so it is an added advantage.
Quite a few pages ago I was working on the interior harness of the car. I had a lot of questions that went unanswered so I just started chasing wires and trimming. Here's everything I managed to get out of the interior harness of the car:
It is quite a bit of wires and took me a very long time to get them out. I'm guessing it is probably in the 15-20lb range, but I'm not sure.
07-03-2009, 03:35 PM
#395
Second time typing this.... 
After seeing 3rdgen92maro's bucket of wires and a lot of extra free time due to my teeth, I finally decided to go out and weigh my box of wires that is pictured above. These are all the extranious wires I removed from the interior harness. The car still has all of the wiring for the power windows, locks, AC, brake, head, interior, and tail lights. The only semi comfort related thing I removed was the stereo wiring. My car never came with a head unit and had after market speakers that I ended up selling. I also needed to space of where the head unit goes to fit my gauges so it worked out.
Here's the current updated list of all of the crap I've removed from the car so far.
Front Bumper Support = 25.375 lbs
Fog lights and brackets = 4.0625 lbs
Cruise control, cable, and throttle cable cover = 4.4375 lbs
Air pump and brass fittings = 5.9375 lbs
Stock horns = 1.875 lbs
Stupid siren and loud horn = 2.5 lbs
Stock Y pipe and single cat = 21.1875 lbs
Frame horns = 5.125 lbs
Fender metal = 1.25 lbs
Rear Seatbelts = 4.1375 lbs
Aftermarket Speaker Wiring (will be added to considering there is a ton more of it) = .25 lbs
Carpet = 29.0375 lbs
Windshield washer fluid reservoir with water = 8.0625 lbs
Heat shields beneath the car = 2.1875
Soon to be useless exhaust hangers = 2.00 lbs
Rear Seats = 22.4375 lbs
Random exhaust hangers, brackets, nuts, and bolts = 9.25 lbs
Front Speakers = 2.75 lbs
Rear Speakers = 3.25 lbs
Front Speaker Brackets = 1.25 lbs
Interior brackets including (rear seat brackets, antenna bracket, rear seat belt brackets) = 3.875 lbs
Security System Hood Lock = 2.6875 lbs
Antenna + Wire (not including the actual metal rod) = .25lbs
Stock catback = 50.1875lbs
Rear Armrests = 4.21875lbs
Extra Metal Trimmings = 1.00lbs
Emergency Brake System = 12.125lbs
Door Fiberglass = 1.90625 lbs
Door Crash Bars and Brackets = 17.5625 lbs
Window Regulator Metal = 1.8846535171744791666666666666667 lbs
Driver's Air Bag = 3.625 lbs
Passenger's Air Bag = 9.46875
Heater Core (empty) = 1.03125
AC Tube = .09375
Black Mat = 10.03125 lbs
Airbag Crash Sensors = 1.53125 lbs
Mat that is Underneath the Dash Pad = 2.34375 lbs
Heater Core Hoses = 2.0125 lbs
Front Sway Bar = 15.09375 lbs
Plastic Shrouding = 4.968749 lbs
Power - Manual seat slider = 14.4375 - 10.8125 = 3.625 lbs
EGR and EVAP parts = 1.625 lbs
Interior Harness Extranious Wiring = 14.50 lbs
Grand total to this point = 322.009699 lbs + all the stuff I still have to either cut out or weigh.
I still have the engine harness that controls the head lights, turn signals, battery, ABS, etc.... to cut on. If I can get about 10 lbs of wiring out of that harness I will be pretty happy.
I also have a lot more work to do on the chassis. Once the cage goes in I can cut out a lot of the structural metal that you wouldn't normally mess with, holesaw the seat sliders, and install some different seats. Once all is said and done I have figured that I have another 567ish lbs that I can take out of the car. I am going to have to add around another 215ish lbs back into the car amongst the turbo system, cage, harnesses, carpet, relocating the battery, and a few other things.
Overall after messing with those calculations it should be slightly lighter than I anticipated at 2826.99 lbs with me, AC, cage, ps, turbo system, iron block, TH400, all of the interior panels, and dual stage fuel system in it. I'm sure there's a few things that I am missing on both sides, but I'm figuring it should end up around a 2850-2900 lb race weight.
After seeing 3rdgen92maro's bucket of wires and a lot of extra free time due to my teeth, I finally decided to go out and weigh my box of wires that is pictured above. These are all the extranious wires I removed from the interior harness. The car still has all of the wiring for the power windows, locks, AC, brake, head, interior, and tail lights. The only semi comfort related thing I removed was the stereo wiring. My car never came with a head unit and had after market speakers that I ended up selling. I also needed to space of where the head unit goes to fit my gauges so it worked out.
Here's the current updated list of all of the crap I've removed from the car so far.
Front Bumper Support = 25.375 lbs
Fog lights and brackets = 4.0625 lbs
Cruise control, cable, and throttle cable cover = 4.4375 lbs
Air pump and brass fittings = 5.9375 lbs
Stock horns = 1.875 lbs
Stupid siren and loud horn = 2.5 lbs
Stock Y pipe and single cat = 21.1875 lbs
Frame horns = 5.125 lbs
Fender metal = 1.25 lbs
Rear Seatbelts = 4.1375 lbs
Aftermarket Speaker Wiring (will be added to considering there is a ton more of it) = .25 lbs
Carpet = 29.0375 lbs
Windshield washer fluid reservoir with water = 8.0625 lbs
Heat shields beneath the car = 2.1875
Soon to be useless exhaust hangers = 2.00 lbs
Rear Seats = 22.4375 lbs
Random exhaust hangers, brackets, nuts, and bolts = 9.25 lbs
Front Speakers = 2.75 lbs
Rear Speakers = 3.25 lbs
Front Speaker Brackets = 1.25 lbs
Interior brackets including (rear seat brackets, antenna bracket, rear seat belt brackets) = 3.875 lbs
Security System Hood Lock = 2.6875 lbs
Antenna + Wire (not including the actual metal rod) = .25lbs
Stock catback = 50.1875lbs
Rear Armrests = 4.21875lbs
Extra Metal Trimmings = 1.00lbs
Emergency Brake System = 12.125lbs
Door Fiberglass = 1.90625 lbs
Door Crash Bars and Brackets = 17.5625 lbs
Window Regulator Metal = 1.8846535171744791666666666666667 lbs
Driver's Air Bag = 3.625 lbs
Passenger's Air Bag = 9.46875
Heater Core (empty) = 1.03125
AC Tube = .09375
Black Mat = 10.03125 lbs
Airbag Crash Sensors = 1.53125 lbs
Mat that is Underneath the Dash Pad = 2.34375 lbs
Heater Core Hoses = 2.0125 lbs
Front Sway Bar = 15.09375 lbs
Plastic Shrouding = 4.968749 lbs
Power - Manual seat slider = 14.4375 - 10.8125 = 3.625 lbs
EGR and EVAP parts = 1.625 lbs
Interior Harness Extranious Wiring = 14.50 lbs
Grand total to this point = 322.009699 lbs + all the stuff I still have to either cut out or weigh.
I still have the engine harness that controls the head lights, turn signals, battery, ABS, etc.... to cut on. If I can get about 10 lbs of wiring out of that harness I will be pretty happy.
I also have a lot more work to do on the chassis. Once the cage goes in I can cut out a lot of the structural metal that you wouldn't normally mess with, holesaw the seat sliders, and install some different seats. Once all is said and done I have figured that I have another 567ish lbs that I can take out of the car. I am going to have to add around another 215ish lbs back into the car amongst the turbo system, cage, harnesses, carpet, relocating the battery, and a few other things.
Overall after messing with those calculations it should be slightly lighter than I anticipated at 2826.99 lbs with me, AC, cage, ps, turbo system, iron block, TH400, all of the interior panels, and dual stage fuel system in it. I'm sure there's a few things that I am missing on both sides, but I'm figuring it should end up around a 2850-2900 lb race weight.
07-03-2009, 04:31 PM
#397
Thanks, I'm not really making much progress, but more figuring out everything I need to do and the order to do them in. The car is going to take another year or two, possibly more to complete. I have it figured at around $21k in parts and other things that I need. I have a few things that should shave off a few thousand, but it is going to take a while.
07-03-2009, 05:24 PM
#399
Thanks, I am pretty good at being patient. My formula hasn't moved in 25 months and this car is years from being finished.
I also noticed that a bunch of my earlier pictures are down. I am going to try to go back through them and rehost them.
I also noticed that a bunch of my earlier pictures are down. I am going to try to go back through them and rehost them.
07-03-2009, 07:21 PM
#400
.I am a firm believer in spending the time to get it built correctly, and not cutting corners or settling for sub par parts just to save time or money. If you're gonna do it, do it big
.