sandovalt1

iTrader: (2)

i have a 95 LT1. im getting tired of all the tune. i heard ill pick up a couple of tenths and a few mph at the track. my idea is to put a victor jr, and a 750 demon. any hints or help ???? its a built 355 with ported LT1 heads

black383

i was debating this as well.. i tired of all thses frickin senosors, and check engine lights... carbs are nice and simple

sandovalt1

iTrader: (2)

yes they are alot more simple.... and i think it will help my time slip a little

black383

yea, thats why prostock still run carbs and NASCAR

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Only way a carb will run better is if the computer tune is wrong or there is a mechanical issue with the injection. In racing where injection is allowed it is used. In both Pro Stock and NASCAR it is banned by rules.

You want to go carbed, whatever, just don't pretend it is in any way shape or form better.

hammrman31

i agree. i own a modded 71 z28 and a slightley modded 95 z28. for overall consistant street performance the 95 wins. and i think it has the potential to compare whith a carbed motor up to a high level. i love my 71 [bought in 1972' but the newer injected motors can be tuned to the level of your total combination, and stay that way. unless you are able to access the services of mr. jenkins stay were you are at. carbs are very hard to tune. sorry everybody i,m just an old fart

bigdan1

this post sounds funny to me ...cause i'm going all the trouble to convert my project to EFI because i'm fed up of retuning carbs for different aplications ,altitude difference etc...

just look around ever seen a 425 net Hp 6.1L in the good old days naaaa!!

and i remember ( I was 20 ) did we f...ck around trying to get those carbs to run without any isuues !

keep EFI
Dan

caldercay

I'm in agreement with "hammrman3" ... my first Z was a 69 Z ( bought new, but unfortunately dont have it anymore). My current is a 95 Z convertible. At times, I wish I had a legacy motor, carburated and with a "regular" distributor.

In those days, we only worried about carb jetting, intake manifolds, and points/dwell/TDC. Today, we have to rely on the computer to take all the sensor input and decide what to do with injection, radiator fans, timing, and so on.

I think the frustration with most folks, and I'm guilty of it too, is that the computer is a "black box" ... if something goes wrong with our computer-controlled car, we are at a loss with what is wrong, unless we have the tools to diagnose and re-tune. It's much more expensive to go that route (digital diagnostic tools and tuning packages).

I've also seriously considered converting the 95 Z to a non-computerized layout, which will never happen because a legacy GM 350's distributor will bang up against the firewall/cowl.

But seriously, in the long run, the computer controlled LT1 will run more consistently and accurately with all its electronically controlled parts.

z28_theantirice

iTrader: (2)

This is why having a laptop with Datamaster or EFI Live is absolutely a necessary tool for anyone intending to modify or work on a fuel injected car. Should be apart of your tool box like any other tool

bricez28

ive had two carbed cars... ******* starting them in the winter? stalling? ugh. nonsense

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Datamaster is probably the best $95 you can spend if you want to maintain and modify a 94-5 LT1 car, I don't know what I would do without it. A cable is $45-65 and a laptop to run it can be had for $100 because requirements are modest.

jakesz28

iTrader: (9)

I would only go carb if it is strictly for drag racing. EFI and a laptop go hand in hand. Plus you said it was a 95. Tuning software for 94-95 is cheap. Tunercats works without vin locking. I was running low 12's this year on the motor and went 10.9 on the bottle. Even with 4.10's, 3600 stall, and the cam I was still getting 16 miles to the gallon. With no tuning problems even strapped it to the duno to check AFR and it was right on.

sandovalt1

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys i really needed other opinnions. i run the car mainly on the street and once in a while on the strip. i have LT1 edit, just need to buy the cable. thanks for the info. i didnt know which way to go. now another question. i have a built 4l60e. when i put it back in from being freshned up it doesnt want to shift with the pedal to the floor. it just goes in the rev limiter untill i let off a little bit then it shifts, but if the rpms drop to much it down shifts back. does it have something to do with the tune or the tranny is bad ??? im thinking about going th350 or 400 any help with that ??? thanks

sandovalt1

iTrader: (2)

thanks alot again w/ the carb vs. EFI

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The 4L60E CAN be built to take serious power, just a relatively few shops are capable.

I have over 4 years/45K miles on my ProBuilt Automatics, car was cammed when I put it in and has been under the current power for the better part of two years. Most people trust locals or the latest fad shop that thows expensive parts at it rather than really understanding and making it work. Either way they blow them up regularly and want to go three speed.

The 4L60E has an awesome first gear and the OD and lockup are wonderful for a driver, the only bad thing is the 1-2 ratio split BUT a good stall makes it no big deal.

sandovalt1

iTrader: (2)

i like the 4l60e the extra gear is nice around here (south houston) running around on 26 or 28 10.5's is hard to do w/ the police and running around with 17's, drag radials, and a low gear isnt to fun w a 3 speed.

RaggedRides

iTrader: (8)

If you stick with an overdrive transmission, the carb isn't all that bad. I've been driving my Firebird for about two years now with a 400/TH400 combo. It's pretty damn reliable and trouble free, except for having to pump it a bit when it's cold outside. Honestly, it's not as bad as everyone says.

If you know a little about tuning a carb, you can get by with one. Not to say I'd choose this route with another daily driver, but as an extra car it wouldn't be bad at all. I like the simplicity of the set up when it comes to tearing it down to work on something. You simply move it aside and go for it without fiddling with miles of wires and sensors. The drawback is, however, you need to know how to work with it if you don't have a tuner. I can't find many people around here to tune the thing. Sometimes I wish I could hook it up to a laptop and see what's wrong.

It wouldn't get terrible gas mileage if it weren't for the damn three speed.


If I had the money, I'd look into an aftermarket fuel injection set up. There's alot of nice systems out there for the money. When it comes to doing this swap on an LT1, it's just hard to see why you'd bother. Unless you have alot of money tied into the engine, I wouldn't mess with it. For the trouble, swapping in a decent Gen I small block wouldn't be half bad. It'd bolt up to the mounts, transmission, and exhaust.



All in all, the old school way isn't half shabby, but I don't know if I'd try to convert an LT1. It'd be cool to see though!

sandovalt1

iTrader: (2)

i do have a 396 LT1 i sold the harness and computer with the roller. so i'm going with a carb on that. its going to be a track car. the motor is going in a buddies coupe

RaggedRides

iTrader: (8)

I guess you're just trading in one set of hassles for another, so it's a choose your poison scenerio.


I thought about running a carb'd LT1 in my Firebird, but couldn't see the trouble in trying to convert it to an old school distributor when Gen 1's are all over the place for dirt.


If I had a half assed decent LT1, I'd finger out the bugs and get it running right.



However, as they say, different strokes for different blokes.

nighthawk15

An LT1 with a carb is little more than an SBC with a more limited after market. Personally, I would stay injected, but that's just me.