whats the avg 500rwhp build cost!!!
02-12-2008, 03:07 PM
#21
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These kind of threads make me laugh a bit..No offense to the OP, but I think its better to pick an ET/MPH goal and shoot for that...dyno numbers can be so easily manipulated and more often the dyno numbers and the trap speeds don't add up...
Having said that, 500rwhp is achievable N/A usually with a good SR and properly ported heads with a stout bottom end to handle the rpms (there's a thread in this section of an AI SR set up making 500rwhp on pump gas...)...But then you have to factor in M6 or A4 for driveline losses etc, etc...I've seen guys with 500 rwhp trapping 125 mph and I only make 375 rwhp and trap 121..Don't get too bogged down in the number...dyno hp is not nearly as impressive as track numbers, imho...
--Alan
Having said that, 500rwhp is achievable N/A usually with a good SR and properly ported heads with a stout bottom end to handle the rpms (there's a thread in this section of an AI SR set up making 500rwhp on pump gas...)...But then you have to factor in M6 or A4 for driveline losses etc, etc...I've seen guys with 500 rwhp trapping 125 mph and I only make 375 rwhp and trap 121..Don't get too bogged down in the number...dyno hp is not nearly as impressive as track numbers, imho...
--Alan
amen to that! i could sell my motor, but not for 5k. it made over 500 through the factory exhaust. et and trap is what it is all about. if it were all about dyno #'s there would be no need for drag strips
02-12-2008, 05:18 PM
#22
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this would be similar to the other dude's 500 rwhp engine:
this is JUST the engine. Add in $1000+ for a good set of headers, y-pipe, and catback/cutout. you're going to need a good rear to plant all the power, think $2500 there. the trans will need to be built. I don't know what 6 speeds go for but my 4L60E was locally built for $900. Clutch/converter will be pricey. My yank PT4000 goes for about $800 brand new. suspension all around to help put all the power to the ground. quick add up in my head exceeds $1000 for quality parts. Full dyno tune would be needed, that would be around $300-$500.
You're looking at about $20,000 NOT including the purchase price of the car.
Code:
Total: $7,599.39 Part Cost Description Block $400.00 4 bolt main LT1 block Pistons $1,095.00 Mahle forged flat tops, 5cc valve reliefs 4.030” bore Piston Rings - Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package Wrist Pins - Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks Rods - Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods Rod Bolts - ARP rod bolts – incl with pistons Crankshaft - Stock 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft Engine Machinework $700.00 Balance rotating assembly, bore cylinders, line hone, check clearances Main bearings $79.39 Clevite 77 Rod bearings $22.00 Clevite 77 Cam Bearings $18.00 Clevite 77 Cylinder Heads $1,975.00 Ai 200cc CNC heads Intake manifold $425.00 Ai street/strip ported stock intake manifold Camshaft - Ai Custom Solid Roller Cam Valve springs $795.00 PSI 1200 Series Endurance Spring w/ Xceldyne Ti-17 Locks & Retainers Retainers - incl Valve Locks - incl Head Gaskets $35.00 Mr Gasket 5716 .026” thick head gaskets Head bolts $100.00 ARP head bolts Rocker $1,575.00 Jesel Sportsman Series Shaft Mount Rocker System Push rods - Ai 4130 One Piece ChromeMoly Hardened Pushrods 3/8" Dia. .080" Wall Lifters - Morel UltraPro HIPPO (High Pressure Pin Oiling) Solid Roller Lifters Gaskets $150.00 GM gasket set Injectors $280.00 Racetronix 36lb injectors
You're looking at about $20,000 NOT including the purchase price of the car.
05-07-2008, 09:47 AM
#25
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This question is so loaded and mean different things to different people, it's like asking how much will my 10 bolt last. Some people make them last a long time with a lot of power while others blow them with a stock motor. Cheapest would be to take a stock RA and upgrade pistons and cam/valvetrain and then just spray it. Would be daily driver reliable when not on the spray and have parts to handle a healthy shot at the track. Many people over build **** all the time for what they want to do, I did it with my first motor, but I'm learning it's not needed and it's a lot easier on the pocket book.
05-07-2008, 10:08 AM
#26
I took out a 10K loan to build my 96 Camaro and I have sadly learned 10k don't get you anywhere when you want to be bullett proof and fast at the same time.
My Powerglide with manual valve body (forward pattern) trans-brake and 3,500 B&M Stall = $1,300.00 and no you most likely will not get one for that cheap.
9 inch rear end = 1k just for the housing and some Moser 31 spline axles and that don't include the 3rd member.
Then gotta measure for drive shaft and get a shifter and a cross member and then you might as well get a torque arm and some wheels and drag radials = $1,800.00 - $2,400.00
And that didn't even cover anything for the motor. Hope this helps you out!
P.S. Nitrous is cheap horsepower you can buy, just don't get retarded when picking jet sizes!
My Powerglide with manual valve body (forward pattern) trans-brake and 3,500 B&M Stall = $1,300.00 and no you most likely will not get one for that cheap.
9 inch rear end = 1k just for the housing and some Moser 31 spline axles and that don't include the 3rd member.
Then gotta measure for drive shaft and get a shifter and a cross member and then you might as well get a torque arm and some wheels and drag radials = $1,800.00 - $2,400.00
And that didn't even cover anything for the motor. Hope this helps you out!
P.S. Nitrous is cheap horsepower you can buy, just don't get retarded when picking jet sizes!
05-07-2008, 10:18 AM
#27
well if you only wanting 500rwhp buy a new or used vortech S trim kit for $1,500-$3,700 and then full exaust $500, alky control methanol injection $500, mild blower cam $300, upgrade injectors and versa fueler$600, custom dyno tune $300-$500, and the 2.75 blower pully $100 which will give you around 10psi and let her roll! i had some ported heads with a T400 and made right at 550rwhp but minus the heads and you should stil be at 500rwhp with an M6!
05-07-2008, 10:34 AM
#28
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To simply answer the OP, I say no matter what route you go it's gonna cost you at least 10K......
I did my last 355 and on a 150 shot it made 525 RWHP for about 8-10K....... Which is why I say 10K is doable...... It was pretty reliable.....
I did my last 355 and on a 150 shot it made 525 RWHP for about 8-10K....... Which is why I say 10K is doable...... It was pretty reliable.....
05-27-2008, 11:55 PM
#29
Depends on which route you go. Heads and cam with bolt ons is generally cheaper than forced induction, but not as much power. For me procharger is the way to go. I have a 2002 trans am with a stock motor, full exhaust, and my p-1sc-1 and i have 538.2 RWHP. I am getting an f-1 procharger, and am currently selling my procharger. Polished plenum and head. 6k miles. Easy driven. No boost leak, belt slip. nothing but power 4000$ obo. This is probably the best bang for the buck your going to find for reliability without killing your motor. Let me know if your interested. I could even help put it on your car!
05-28-2008, 08:03 PM
#30
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i have 4k in my basement in AFR's and a new forged 385 i got for a deal that would cost 4k to build, 1900 for my 12 bolt and another 1900 for my t56 1300 for a good clutch damn...this is looking bad. for me to get mine running it will cost me another 3k running right probably 3500
05-28-2008, 08:38 PM
#31
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I wouldn't build so much for top power, but for a damn good setup. My friends 98' Z had a medium size cam, stock heads, little rear suspension work, th350(I think) converter, and about 150 shot of juice, and some good tires. Ended up besting a 580whp Kb Cobra. Its more with what you can do with your power. He also ran 10.90s-11.10
