Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

UUMMM...

I was not trying to indicate that anybody was stupid. I tried to present all the facts about this swap. I’ve done this swap with great results and I’m sharing my experiences with others. This website has given me a wealth of knowledge and I try to give some back when I can.

There was some dyno testing done and it was documented here:

http://www.ws6.com/mod-14.htm

This test was done with the standard flow 35 GPM pump. Myself and I'll bet most others would opt for the higher flow 55 GPM pump. If there's any gain due to lower coolant temps, it'll be greater with the 55 GPM unit.

Note that their testing showed the stock pump pushes only 25 GPM at 6,000 RPM.

Don't forget that underhood temperature, the thermostat trying to maintain a set temperature level and the condition of the radiator will have an effect on cooling abilities, the pump is just one part of the system.

Suggestions and experiences posted here are subject to one's interpretation and application. Reader beware that his/her results may vary.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You kids don't get it.
I know that the electrics result in a RWHP gain I just insist on correcting people who missunderstand how that gain is achieved. I see no gain in allowing bad information to continue to spread. You go further on less money if you have a true understanding of hows and whys.

Like ABA383 noticed by cruise rpm the temp is slightly higher now, that is because the electric moves LESS water. I am not saying it is an inadequate amount I am just saying it is LESS. I will even say that the mechanical likely cavitates at high rpms which is a bad thing. Good chance I will buy an electric pump this year even I just think it important to understand things.

Look at the individuals arguing with me. They are NOT knowledgable guys, guys like Paul and ABA know what they have done and understand how gains were achieved, you see them happily running electrics but not making these claims of more flow and crap.

You should understand too that the electrics are free flow rated and the mechanical flow info we have from SAE is as restricted by the block, thermostat and all.
Someone has already posted the flow chart from SAE.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....1&postcount=63

joer6

do you have to plug off the hole in the block from the water pump drive or can you just leave it open? also were do you get this painless install kit. thanks for any help.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Paul, I do not know where they got the 25gpm thing but the 60+gpm info comes from an SAE article on the LT1 cooling system.
They said
"the stock pump is rated to flow 25gpm at 6000rpm."
To me it sounds as if they did not test that, they found the info somewhere and quoted it, which is fine if we could get some info on the source. I wonder if it was tested at 6000 pump rpm as opposed to 6000 engine rpm like the SAE documentation.
Personally I will take SAE documentation over most other sources.

Do the electrical to HP conversions and figure out how much HP these little electric WPs are putting out, then go and compare to say sump pumps or some other readily available pump that you can see HP and GPM info on.

Please someone else go check the math on it since people don't believe me. All the conversions from amps at a certain voltage to HP are available online easy to find.

caldercay

I have been running a Meziere for about 6 months (about 5k miles)
and have had zero issues with it. Certainly easier to change out when
it goes than changing out that water pump.

caldercay

I would plug the hole if you've removed the pump drive. The knurls on
the shaft extending out of the timing chain cover became stripped,
which is why my water pump quit working. My solution was to get an
electric pump (Meziere), so I wouldnt have to break down the front of
the engine to replace the water pump drive gear. I've left the drive
gear where it is for now (until I break into the engine).

If you've removed the drive gear from the timing chain cover, you should
definitely plug that hole or dirt and gunk will get in the timing chain. If
you have left the the drive gear in, just let it be.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Paul, there is only one poster here that called others stupid, and it was not you.
Second, everyone realizes that a pump that runs at a standard gpm, no matter the rpm, versus one that will vary at rpm, will flow different amounts at different rpms. No brainer, and not sure why it is even brought up by anyone, especially "experts".
FWIW, I believe in numbers; dyno and track times.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

OK guys, from the linked thread above, post number seven:

I did back to back same day dyno testing on a Mustang dyno last year..On my combo switching from a stocker to a Meziere got me 9-10 rwhp across the entire tested rpm range...It does run a wee bit hotter during cruise than it did before because the EWP runs at a constant speed rather than the mechanical which fluctuates with engine speed...For the same reasons it runs cooler at idle and in traffic and in the staging lanes...

Thanks for the link, it kinda proves that an EWP does add power. In the entire thread, there are several good links about this topic such as: http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/htmls/waterpump.html

My car is a daily driver. I've driven from NYC to Canada. I'm pushing 20,000 miles with the Meziere. Open the radiator cap and the coolant's gushing through. Does it pose a heavier load to the alternator? Certainly. Less overall load on the engine? It must as everybody that has done a dyno A/B test shows gains.

Hell, I even have the Meziere EWP on my 600 HP Monte and it never overheated or had any problems.

I'm having good success with the EWP on my DD. By all acounts and other's who've done testing have shown real world HP gains. I think it's a good upgrade. I haven't had any problems or issues whatsoever.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Like I said they do result in more power to the tires, my argument is about all the FALSE statements that is moves more water. Maybe try reading slower.
What I am saying does not disagree with the link Paul posted either.

Bersaglieri

iTrader: (13)

My stocker went bad. I got a brand new GM waterpump. It went bad in a year. I put a CSR in, that was 50k miles and 4 years ago. It makes more power and I like it. End of story.

-Dustin-