LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

LS1s sound like crap. They aren't good sounding motors. I'd be ashamed to have a loud exhaust in an LSx. I also think they lose in the looks department. Hence me buying my LT1. I LOVE the LT1 Trans Ams and Formulas.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Love my Lt1! Even more, now with JUICE!

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I dont think the times are that great I was running those times but at 103mph in my old auto with just full exhaust but maybe your DA is high? I would think you should be a high 12 with those mods.

JHL88

they do sound like crap especially compared to LT1's and new edge mustangs. but they are great performers. the only thing i dont like about LT1's is how pointy the nose is and it does look a bit more cheaply made but nonetheless, more aggressive

1994Z28Lt1

iTrader: (1)

are you ******* kidding me???

the the reason you run a cooler stat, with a cooler running engine the intake temps will be cooler and you can get away with running slightly more timing i dont know why you guys dont get this

peak power usually occurs with a spark timing slightly before detonation, with a cooler running engine you can run slightly more timing

1994Z28Lt1

iTrader: (1)

you seem to forget as a whole the engine (if receiving adequate air flow) will be on average of 20 degrees cooler allowing a slightly larger window before detonation occurs, thus being able to advance timing slightly and because of running cooler temps even on stock tuning the engine wont detonate as easily and there would be less of a chance for the computer to pull timing

im not so sure if you really know the proper operation of a thermostat

wouldn't have to wait as long before the engine "starts cooling down" ?? its being cooled the entire time running through the bypass/heater core/oil cooler if you have one, the thermostat opens when the temperature of the antifreeze reaches the either 160 or 180 whatever stat you have

if you have a cooler running engine you are able to run more timing safely which equals more power

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Ok, I kind of understand what you are saying now, but what I'm saying is that just simply switching the thermo is not going to significantly affect the consistent temp your engine runs at. Especially if you still have the stock fan settings, the engine is still going to warm up after the thermo opens, and it will ultimately reach nearly the same temp. The fans turning on earlier can reduce that, and that is why they are usually recommended to be tuned when putting in a lower temp thermo.

Basically the "so you installed a 160 thermo, so now you can run more timing" idea is a false attribution that is not really accurate.

1994Z28Lt1

iTrader: (1)

you're looking at this wrong it doesn't cool the engine more as far as BTU's, it allows coolant to escape the stat at 160 degrees instead of 180! if the coolant running through the engine is on average 20 degrees cooler guess what happens to the rest of the engine? especially the heads! 20 degrees cooler!

its not rocket science if the coolant is allowed to escape to the radiator at a cooler temp (with enough airflow) the entire engine will be at a lower temp

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

I figured that post would just be confusing so I deleted it lol.

Anyway, yes when the coolant first touches the motor it will be 20 degrees cooler. But wait! what's going to happen to the coolant when it touches that hot *** motor? It's going to warm up! that's right. You are still not understanding this. Changing to a 160 deg thermo (thereby letting the coolant escape 20 deg earlier) DOES NOT MEAN you have an engine that will be running on average 20 degrees cooler.

The engine is still going to warm up. If you let it idle etc on the stock fan settings, it's still going to reach the same final temp. It will take longer to get there though, because the coolant flows through the motor earlier. Again what I'm saying is that the thermo changes the rate of cooling, not the amount of it.

1994Z28Lt1

iTrader: (1)

sure in town when your radiator isn't getting enough airflow to cool the engine enough to allow the stat to regulate the temp, it will rely on how your fans are set, and if you still have them on stock settings you wont see any difference in town as to what temp the engine runs.

but on the highway when airflow is not a problem your temp will hover around what your stat opens at

and if you are tuned for that 160 stat, the tuner will program the fans to come on at a lower temp, which will again keep you engine cooler than stock

either way with a proper tune you engine will run cooler with a 160 degree stat than the stock 180 degree stat, this allows the tuner more room for advancing the timing and possibly even leaning it out some to produce more power

how do you think a good tune actually makes more power? find a happy medium between spark advance and fueling

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

LS1's rule.

1994Z28Lt1

iTrader: (1)

tell me this.... what gets cooled on an lt1 first? The heads! which is really what matters

also think about this....

once the thermostat opens whether its a 180 degree stat or a 160 degree stat there isn't a restriction to coolant flow

the coolant is going to flow at the same rate with a 180 stat or a 160 stat, therefore you can assume that since the flow rate is the same and the only thing that differs between the two is at which temp the coolant enters the engine, that the engine with the 160 degree stat the coolant will leave the engine cooler than an engine with a 180 degree stat

(keep in mind this is assuming enough airflow to keep the temp hovering around the temp at which the stat opens)

strkt_&_blwn

iTrader: (10)

It's kinda weird I have almost the same setup as you do in your LT1 car. built 383 with a D1, and I also have a Silver 2000 T/A. That's crazy. here's a pic of mine.





but to get back on subject it is kind of irritating to see the same numbers out of an LS1 car that has less than half the time and cash invested. But you know what they say if you can't beat 'em join 'em.

darrensls1

I was at the track and heard a LS1 that sounded bad ***. Turned out the guy had AFR heads, MS4 cam and true duals. I would have been proud to own that car.

Hence why I am having ETP 215's, Street sweeper cam and true duals put on my car. And I'll be damn proud to have that loud LS1 making sweet music to my ears

And the track times will be nice too

sleeperMULLET

iTrader: (4)

I would much rather have a LS1 instead of sinking thousands into a LT1.

Coolant temp has alot to do with the A/F ratio, thats why there is a ECT for the PCM.

LT14LIFE JT

iTrader: (1)

To get back on the subject, your times are a little off with the mods you have. Depending on your DA, you should be in the high 12s.

And, c'mon guys! It's like you're giving up on the ole' LT1....I've owned 8 LT1 camaros and will own more in due time. I'm not an LS1 hater, but regardless or whether they are faster or not, I like the LT1 better. And some of you are thinking it takes heads/cam to run 12s. LMAO! Don't you realize that the bolt on record is 11.80? I've ran mid-high 12s all day long in my full weight(plus a cage), bolt on LT1, with no tune in August heat! It just takes a little insight and some time.

Good luck with you car and hope to see you in the high 12s with some traction/tuning.

LT1_T/A

iTrader: (2)

thanks....i will be in the 12's soon!!!

darrensls1

And the LS1 bolt on record is 10.6. Just one more reason for the OP to be hatin on the LS1

N20Dave

iTrader: (7)

Let me know when you LS1 guys are ready to run against my LT1 for pinks...

LT14LIFE JT

iTrader: (1)

I was merely stating that you don't need heads/cam on an LT1 to run 12s. I could care less what the bolt on LS1 record is. It's supposed to be faster. All aluminum, 6-bolt main, 6.125" rods, .500 lift cam, 230 cfm 15* heads, all from the factory. If they were anything alike, and it being faster, I could see your point for bragging. You don't see us LT1 guys going to the TPI forums and bragging about LT1s, do you?