"Stock Internals" Build
"Stock Internals" Build As some of you may already know, I am working with the youth from my church to build and campaign an LT1 drag car. We have decided to run a "stock internals" combination to start with. The goal is to run a 11.30 with stock factory parts.
Yesterday the kids tore down the motor so that it can be hot tanked and honed. The starting point for our project is the 186 mile motor that came in my 1995 Formula. In a past life it ran 7.94 in the 1/8 th with stock internals and 7.10 cam only. It has been sitting in my shop for about twelve years.
This shot is of the guys tearing the short block down. They will be doing all of the work on this project.
I will update this thread regularly and we will share all tricks and secrets, so that people on a budget can duplicate our results.
Yesterday the kids tore down the motor so that it can be hot tanked and honed. The starting point for our project is the 186 mile motor that came in my 1995 Formula. In a past life it ran 7.94 in the 1/8 th with stock internals and 7.10 cam only. It has been sitting in my shop for about twelve years.
This shot is of the guys tearing the short block down. They will be doing all of the work on this project.
I will update this thread regularly and we will share all tricks and secrets, so that people on a budget can duplicate our results.
Last edited by GIZMO; Jul 10, 2009 at 10:31 PM.
Thats pretty cool to have kids involved like that, it will definatly keep them out of trouble.
btw, would you happen to know Willie Mylin? He has a stock eliminator camaro (blue 3rd gen) and runs most of the races here in the south. He actually works with me, his father in law also has a vert 1st gen that also runs one of the stock eliminator classes.
btw, would you happen to know Willie Mylin? He has a stock eliminator camaro (blue 3rd gen) and runs most of the races here in the south. He actually works with me, his father in law also has a vert 1st gen that also runs one of the stock eliminator classes.
That is Veronica's SLK350. She is a good sport. I have five bays and she is parking outside for now!
The deal with the kids is that they have to work to get to play. I work with an organization called DYA (Disabled Youth Awareness). We are a group of racers that take disabled kids to the races. We also do site visits at local schools. The youth group has to participate in one DYA event for every race that they run.
The deal with the kids is that they have to work to get to play. I work with an organization called DYA (Disabled Youth Awareness). We are a group of racers that take disabled kids to the races. We also do site visits at local schools. The youth group has to participate in one DYA event for every race that they run.
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Fresh from the machine shop! (The block has been honed and align bored. The rings are low tension stock replacements from Total Seal. The crank has been turned 30/30 and the rods now have ARP rod bolts. The rotating assembly has been balanced and the heads have been blueprinted to NHRA specs. by Jeff Warren).
Stock bore.
Modified filter adapter (The by-pass is plugged so that all of the oil gets filtered).
Torquing the mains.
This core donated it's stock cam (During the build we realized that we had an early cam with the short dowel. This motor is a 1995 with the long dowel pin).
Installing the pistons (Note that the oil returns have been tapped and restrictors have been installed [race only mod]).
Cylinder heads (Stock unported heads with a three angle valve job, ARP rocker studs, and LT4 valve spring. ARP head bolts and stock head gaskets).
Finished long block (Note the stock rockers with poly-locks).
Stock bore.
Modified filter adapter (The by-pass is plugged so that all of the oil gets filtered).
Torquing the mains.
This core donated it's stock cam (During the build we realized that we had an early cam with the short dowel. This motor is a 1995 with the long dowel pin).
Installing the pistons (Note that the oil returns have been tapped and restrictors have been installed [race only mod]).
Cylinder heads (Stock unported heads with a three angle valve job, ARP rocker studs, and LT4 valve spring. ARP head bolts and stock head gaskets).
Finished long block (Note the stock rockers with poly-locks).
Last edited by GIZMO; Jun 22, 2008 at 08:04 PM.
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Specs. have been added. The short block cost was $718.00 for cleaning, machine work, fitting, and balancing. Rings, bearings, timing chain, rod bolts, etc. were $475.95. The work on the heads was donated by Jeff Warren. The oil pump, pick-up, and drive are stock for Vortec trucks. The pick-up is welded. All of the other parts were parts that I already had in stock which can easily be priced at Jegs or GMPP. The cam is stock and new stock lifters were used.
Last edited by GIZMO; Jun 20, 2008 at 09:26 PM.
An odd question for ya, but that is the first time, that I've seen the "modified filter adapter." Why is this done? Do you recommend this for race only or street/strip? Anything bad, happen once this is done?
How the **** did you run 7.10 with a cam only? I want details!
How the **** did you run 7.10 with a cam only? I want details!
Tall slicks, 4.88 gears (12-bolt), TH-350, 4400 converter, DFI, open headers, no power acc., factory light weight Formula.
Blocking the by-pass is a good way to assure that all the oil passes through the filter. The down side is that, if the filter collapses and clogs the flow, there is NO oil getting through. I've seen several Fram street filters and some others brands collapse internally, especially when synthetic oil is used and the temperature is below 50 degrees. If it's going to collapse, it typically does so on a cold start up and if you don't catch it, there go the bearings. Watch the oil pressure or, better yet, wire in a warning light. As a guard against filter failure I leave the by-pass in place and change oil more frequently. 20 runs on an oil change, maximum.
Blocking the by-pass is a good way to assure that all the oil passes through the filter. The down side is that, if the filter collapses and clogs the flow, there is NO oil getting through. I've seen several Fram street filters and some others brands collapse internally, especially when synthetic oil is used and the temperature is below 50 degrees. If it's going to collapse, it typically does so on a cold start up and if you don't catch it, there go the bearings. Watch the oil pressure or, better yet, wire in a warning light. As a guard against filter failure I leave the by-pass in place and change oil more frequently. 20 runs on an oil change, maximum.
I'm down to the point at which I'll probably switch my own car to a System 1 filtration system. As you know, the clogs are the result of a filtration medium breakdown, not by accumulated crud. When you cut one open after such a problem, the paper has turned into a gooey, slimy mess. I lost my first Fram about fifteen years ago and I've seen a dozen or more Frams come apart since then. Fortunately, I caught mine before it got the motor. Some have not been so lucky. At first, I switched to AC Delco and stayed with that until they scared me away when the cheaper and cheaper designs started showing up. Some of my guys use Wix or Napa Gold filters and they seem to be holding up but with more and more manufacturers going off-shore, who knows how long that quality will last.
If we're going to run the Pomona and Phoenix races in February we have to be ready for some chilly weather. Almost 100% of the failures have come in what we call "winter" weather and most seem to come on fresh filters early in the morning when it's the coolest.
Good luck with the project.
If we're going to run the Pomona and Phoenix races in February we have to be ready for some chilly weather. Almost 100% of the failures have come in what we call "winter" weather and most seem to come on fresh filters early in the morning when it's the coolest.
Good luck with the project.
