switched to royal purple (a little long)
05-16-2008, 06:58 AM
#21
......Also... doesn't GM sell an additive that you can put into the oil, which often quiets it down... and lubes all the seals, etc.? I can't remember what it's called... but I remember trying it years ago, in the Camaro as well as a Mazda MPV (don't ask)... and the drivetrain got a lot quieter. This may be a less expensive way to go.
It's called "EOS"...Engine oil suppliment. It's also highly recommemded for new engine break-in. Most GM dealers sell it at their parts counters.
Whenever I get a new car, I pour a pint bottle of the EOS in it, drive the car for 500 miles, then do an oil change. After that, change the oil every 2000-2500 miles. This has been my "MO" since I bought my first new car in 1971. I've never had any engine failures....
05-16-2008, 07:38 AM
#22
I had a very similar issue to the OP. I had Mobil 1 and running down the road I would get 30-35 PSI of oil pressure and then it would drop to 25 when I hit 5K. I put in Valvoline syntec 5w40 and the oil pressure is 50+ PSI cold and about 20 PSI hot idle. Now I get 40 pounds down the road and 50ish at WOT. Mobil 1 is good oil, but it is way too thin for anything with some miles on it. It also made me have a few leaks. Since the switch, I have not lost a drop of oil on the garage floor.
05-16-2008, 02:49 PM
#25
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a little update:
i put about 30 miles on the oil so far, and everything is still the same as the evening i changed to RP
one thing i did notice was my front and rear main seal used to leak a few spots a day on the floor of the garage, and thoes are gone.
i was thinking about how the M1 reacted with my engine, as opposed to newer LT1s and LS1s, and seeing how my oil pump may beed to be replaced and a white spring added, i would also think that with 155,000 miles my bearing clearances opened up a little, since oil pressure is a measurement of the backpressure through clearances in the bottom end.
i put about 30 miles on the oil so far, and everything is still the same as the evening i changed to RP
one thing i did notice was my front and rear main seal used to leak a few spots a day on the floor of the garage, and thoes are gone.
i was thinking about how the M1 reacted with my engine, as opposed to newer LT1s and LS1s, and seeing how my oil pump may beed to be replaced and a white spring added, i would also think that with 155,000 miles my bearing clearances opened up a little, since oil pressure is a measurement of the backpressure through clearances in the bottom end.
05-16-2008, 04:41 PM
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Hold on, wait wait wait, where the hell is 96Capriceknowseverythingaboutoil? Here's a topic concerning Royal Purple which I have endorsed along with quite alot of others and he's no where to be found?
Royal Purple is good stuff I've run it about 20k miles in my T/A and it had just about the same response as everyone else. It is expensive tho so when my oil gets changed b4 it starts this should be my last RP oil change (can't afford it).
Royal Purple is good stuff I've run it about 20k miles in my T/A and it had just about the same response as everyone else. It is expensive tho so when my oil gets changed b4 it starts this should be my last RP oil change (can't afford it).
05-16-2008, 04:54 PM
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i will be giving an update on mine tomorrow im deffently going to give it a try ill do it myself if i have time but i see wal mart carries it now Hope to see mu oil pressure come up some
05-16-2008, 04:57 PM
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I guess by next oil change if i have money laying around ill get RP instead of Castrol Full synthetic. and why are u guys running 10w-30 vs. 5w-30. my oil cap says 5w-30....
05-16-2008, 06:02 PM
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05-16-2008, 06:22 PM
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I dont think dwayne has ever stated he knows everything about oil The 5w30 vs 10w30 is a moot point for the most part. They're both 30 weight range oils at 100C. Unless you're driving the car in sub freezing temps, either works just fine in place of each other.
A UOA on the RP would be worthwhile. Interested to see results.
The 5w30 vs 10w30 is a moot point for the most part. They're both 30 weight range oils at 100C. Unless you're driving the car in sub freezing temps, either works just fine in place of each other. A UOA on the RP would be worthwhile. Interested to see results.
05-16-2008, 06:23 PM
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