LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

ramp for lowered F-cars

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Old 05-17-2008, 04:57 AM
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Question ramp for lowered F-cars

what and where to get ramp(s) that'll clear the low slung/ lowered nose of F-bodies?
rhino ramp any good??

thanks.

Last edited by Toronto_LT1; 05-17-2008 at 09:27 AM.
Old 05-17-2008, 06:38 AM
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If you're a "DIY"er, get a piece of 2x10 wood, about 10 ft long. Cut it in half, to give you two 5 ft. long pieces. Put a 45 degree taper on one end, and you've got a cheap 2" high "ramp". If you want more height, you can cut and taper a couple more pieces of 2x10 and make a "stepped" ramp. A piece or two of no-slip carpet mat on the back will make sure it doesn't slide.

It might not be the "trickest" tool in the garage, but A) it works; and B) it's not all that expensive.
Old 05-17-2008, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Toronto_LT1
[B]what and where to get ramp(s) that'll clear the low slung/ lowered nose of F-bodies? rhino ramp really work??
My brother has ramps similar to Rhino ramps - personally, I dont like them.
They have no "gripping material" on the bottom, so when the front wheels
touch the ramps, and you give a bit of gas to move up on the ramp, most
times, the ramps slide (the car pushes them).

The safest thing, if you want those, is to secure the "back side" of the ramp
up against something like the concrete lip of the garage floor (you know,
where the driveway makes the transition to the garage floor), that way the
ramps wont move. The other option, say, if you want the car in the garage,
is to use a couple of 2x4 x however-long-you-need-them pieces of wood
that you would lay from the wall to each ramp's backside. Whatever you
do, you need something to keep the ramps from sliding as you're trying to
drive up the ramps.

As an option, and what I opted to do, was to build wheel stands. You can
see one of them in this photo:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...37393294327586

I made four of them, allowing me to get the car's wheels 12" off the ground,
which gets me a bellypan height of about 18". (The metal jack stands you
see in the photo are placed only to keep the body from moving). Each of
those stands are "height adjustable" - each stand consists of three sections,
which stack on top of each other, so I can choose at what height I need the
car - so for tranny, exhaust, etc work, I go to full height.

This means, of course, that a floor jack is required to jack the wheels up
and slide the stands under each wheel. I picked up a low-profile 3-ton
jack stand from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94629

I spent a total of just over $40 for the wood and screws at Home Depot for
the stands. (Also includes the bolts that holds each section to the section
below it). Safety was my biggest concern, which is why I opted to build
these units, versus using jack stands.

If anyone is interested, I'll do a write up on the stands, complete w/photos.
Old 05-17-2008, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
If you're a "DIY"er, get a piece of 2x10 wood, about 10 ft long. Cut it in half, to give you two 5 ft. long pieces. Put a 45 degree taper on one end, and you've got a cheap 2" high "ramp". If you want more height, you can cut and taper a couple more pieces of 2x10 and make a "stepped" ramp. A piece or two of no-slip carpet mat on the back will make sure it doesn't slide.

It might not be the "trickest" tool in the garage, but A) it works; and B) it's not all that expensive.

This is what I do. I have two 4 foot pieces of 2x10" with a bolt through the top of each. I have two steel ramps. The bolt from each 2x10 goes through a hole in the ramp to make the ramp longer. I just drove the car up the 2x10s and onto the ramps. I have the ramps held in place with a couple of old pieces of wood braced against the lip where my driveway meets my garage floor. Works perfectly.
Old 05-17-2008, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Toronto_LT1
[B]what and where to get ramp(s) that'll clear the low slung/ lowered nose of F-bodies?
rhino ramp any good??
I've used Rhino ramps for a while now... I got the 8000 version at Autozone, and I'm pretty sure they sell them at Wal*Mart too. I think I paid around $40. Never had a problem with them slipping on my concrete garage. I've even taken them to a self-service car wash (to pressure wash underneath the car), where the ground was wet and soapy, and they didn't slip. They have a square rubber pad at the front edge of the ramp, which the weight of the car compresses and holds it in place. I've used steel ramps a long time ago, and they would slip. These have worked perfectly so far.
Old 05-17-2008, 11:32 AM
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I use rhino ramps, and my cars lowered an inch.
Old 05-17-2008, 01:30 PM
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I just use a jack and jackstands . . . . >_>
Old 05-17-2008, 01:33 PM
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I want ramps so I can jack the car up and set them on the tires... tired of having the thought of the creeper knocking a jackstand out...
Old 05-17-2008, 01:34 PM
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I have Rhino Ramps, my car used to be a bit lower than it is now (I have a fully adjustable ground control kit) and I couldn't get in on the ramps. So I jacked one side up at a time, put the ramp under each wheel..or you could use jack stands as well..same difference.

Now that I raised my car about 1/2" or so I can get in on the ramps and they work just fine.
Old 05-17-2008, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshiedoom
I want ramps so I can jack the car up and set them on the tires... tired of having the thought of the creeper knocking a jackstand out...
I can't seeing THAT happening... A 2-1/2 ton car (even the front and say 1ton) would put MORE than enough pressure on the stands so you can't knock them out. Now, if you left the jack in and just a smidgen higher than the stands, yea you could knocks them around/over. If I'm under the car for any length of time, I slip in the stands and lower the car onto them.



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