Is it OK to go no T-Stat??? Opinions...
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I just replaced my water pump about a week ago.
This idea came into mind.
Would it be OK to run without the termostat???
Would it hurt anything?
Would it run cooler?
Has anyone tryed this?
It's in right now, but just wondering...
This idea came into mind.
Would it be OK to run without the termostat???
Would it hurt anything?
Would it run cooler?
Has anyone tryed this?
It's in right now, but just wondering...
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There was a thread recently about this, if I knew the name I'd say search it. But maybe just search keywords for it.
The jest:
No T-Stat in a carb motor isn't a bad way to go, fuel injection is a different story. Run a T-Stat, but a 160 and then get your fans tuned for it or run a manual switch. In the summer if you really want, run straight water as it has better cooling properties than antifreeze. And yes, many have tried it.
The jest:
No T-Stat in a carb motor isn't a bad way to go, fuel injection is a different story. Run a T-Stat, but a 160 and then get your fans tuned for it or run a manual switch. In the summer if you really want, run straight water as it has better cooling properties than antifreeze. And yes, many have tried it.
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Seriously, the thermostat was designed, even before we were all born, for a reason.
And that reason is to allow the coolant to sit and absorb the heat from the
engine, then as the temp rises beyond the thermostat's rating, the spring
collapses and allows the heated coolant to move into the radiator, where the
heat is dissipated into the atmosphere, the thermostat closes, and the cycle
begins all over again.
If you remove the thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to cull the
engine's heat. Additionally, the LT1 engine is designed to run at its optimum
at around 200*
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Put that idea out of your mind ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Seriously, the thermostat was designed, even before we were all born, for a reason.
And that reason is to allow the coolant to sit and absorb the heat from the
engine, then as the temp rises beyond the thermostat's rating, the spring
collapses and allows the heated coolant to move into the radiator, where the
heat is dissipated into the atmosphere, the thermostat closes, and the cycle
begins all over again.
If you remove the thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to cull the
engine's heat. Additionally, the LT1 engine is designed to run at its optimum
at around 200*
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Seriously, the thermostat was designed, even before we were all born, for a reason.
And that reason is to allow the coolant to sit and absorb the heat from the
engine, then as the temp rises beyond the thermostat's rating, the spring
collapses and allows the heated coolant to move into the radiator, where the
heat is dissipated into the atmosphere, the thermostat closes, and the cycle
begins all over again.
If you remove the thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to cull the
engine's heat. Additionally, the LT1 engine is designed to run at its optimum
at around 200*
So it will run Hotter?
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Yea, forgot about the lubricating properties of the antifreeze.
Also, good idea to run Distilled Water (the stuff people use in their Irons) as it doesn't have the minerals and so forth that cause calcification and can eat aluminum.
Also, good idea to run Distilled Water (the stuff people use in their Irons) as it doesn't have the minerals and so forth that cause calcification and can eat aluminum.
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I see you're in Houston. I live in Cypress and drive to downtown and back
every day (40 miles each way), so I know what you're saying. I run a
50/50 mixture of Dexcool/water and Purple Ice, with a 160* thermostat,
and a Meziere pump (not that the pump really matters).
My temps run anywhere from the 1/4 mark to just above the 1/2 mark on
the temp gauge. The 1/2 mark is 210*, which is "normal" for the LT1. The
temps run higher in stop-n-go traffic, 1/4 mark on the freeway in mid-day heat.
At what temps are you running? And in what conditions?
every day (40 miles each way), so I know what you're saying. I run a
50/50 mixture of Dexcool/water and Purple Ice, with a 160* thermostat,
and a Meziere pump (not that the pump really matters).
My temps run anywhere from the 1/4 mark to just above the 1/2 mark on
the temp gauge. The 1/2 mark is 210*, which is "normal" for the LT1. The
temps run higher in stop-n-go traffic, 1/4 mark on the freeway in mid-day heat.
At what temps are you running? And in what conditions?
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Wait, are you guys serious? Antifreeze has lubricating properties more than water? Um no. If that were so then the entire auto industry would run straight antifreeze b/c it can withstand higher heat and cold conditions, the fact is - antifreeze has very little lubricating properties thus a 50/50 ratio is recommended for both the lubrication of the waterpump (via water. go figure) and the temperature handling of antifreeze.
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that it cools better than coolant/water mixture) - coolants prevent rust, among
its other [positive] properties.
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I see you're in Houston. I live in Cypress and drive to downtown and back
every day (40 miles each way), so I know what you're saying. I run a
50/50 mixture of Dexcool/water and Purple Ice, with a 160* thermostat,
and a Meziere pump (not that the pump really matters).
My temps run anywhere from the 1/4 mark to just above the 1/2 mark on
the temp gauge. The 1/2 mark is 210*, which is "normal" for the LT1. The
temps run higher in stop-n-go traffic, 1/4 mark on the freeway in mid-day heat.
At what temps are you running? And in what conditions?
every day (40 miles each way), so I know what you're saying. I run a
50/50 mixture of Dexcool/water and Purple Ice, with a 160* thermostat,
and a Meziere pump (not that the pump really matters).
My temps run anywhere from the 1/4 mark to just above the 1/2 mark on
the temp gauge. The 1/2 mark is 210*, which is "normal" for the LT1. The
temps run higher in stop-n-go traffic, 1/4 mark on the freeway in mid-day heat.
At what temps are you running? And in what conditions?
But, the funny thing is: before the pump went out, the car never went over the 1/4 mark.
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Wait, are you guys serious? Antifreeze has lubricating properties more than water? Um no. If that were so then the entire auto industry would run straight antifreeze b/c it can withstand higher heat and cold conditions, the fact is - antifreeze has very little lubricating properties thus a 50/50 ratio is recommended for both the lubrication of the waterpump (via water. go figure) and the temperature handling of antifreeze.
Reason when we don't run straight coolant is because it doesn't transfer heat as well. So while it has a lower freezing point and higher boiling point, it just simply won't cool the engine as well.
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Does distilled water cause oxidation too? I mean, I'd assume so, seeing as it's still H2O, but figured that the minerals and so forth are what really played a roll in all that.
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I know what distilled water is, hence me recommending it earlier, but I was asking about the oxidation even with distilled water. Saying that maybe the oxidation is tied in with normal tap waters minerals, and not just the water itself.
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Put that idea out of your mind ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Seriously, the thermostat was designed, even before we were all born, for a reason.
And that reason is to allow the coolant to sit and absorb the heat from the
engine, then as the temp rises beyond the thermostat's rating, the spring
collapses and allows the heated coolant to move into the radiator, where the
heat is dissipated into the atmosphere, the thermostat closes, and the cycle
begins all over again.
If you remove the thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to cull the
engine's heat. Additionally, the LT1 engine is designed to run at its optimum
at around 200*
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Seriously, the thermostat was designed, even before we were all born, for a reason.
And that reason is to allow the coolant to sit and absorb the heat from the
engine, then as the temp rises beyond the thermostat's rating, the spring
collapses and allows the heated coolant to move into the radiator, where the
heat is dissipated into the atmosphere, the thermostat closes, and the cycle
begins all over again.
If you remove the thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to cull the
engine's heat. Additionally, the LT1 engine is designed to run at its optimum
at around 200*
the thermostat was designed for several other reasons none of which is for letting the water sit stationary in the engine so that it can "absorb heat" this is a myth
if you let this happen steam pockets would develop and among other disaster causing things
let me assure you even when the thermostat is closed water is still being circulated very vigorously throughout the engine you just dont realize it because it because its going through the coolant bypass which is basically your heater core
the thermostat was designed in order for your engine to get up to operating temp as quickly as possible for lubrication purposes, keeping your *** warm purposes, burning off moisture in the oil, and back when carburetors ruled the roads do you think tuning an engine to run properly would be easier if it experienced a temp range of say 100-200 degrees or a nice 195 degrees +/- 5-10
and for the OP in stock configuration a thermostat has to be used because of how the cooling system is set up, if you have seen the thermostat for these cars its not your run of the mill sbc thermostat the extra mechanism at the bottom of the thermostat is used to block flow through that orifice when the thermostat is open, without a stat you could overheat and definitely not cool as efficiently
Last edited by 1994Z28Lt1; 06-05-2008 at 03:01 AM.