Longtubes or Hurst + LCA relo. brackets?
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TECH Junkie
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From: Rapid City, SD
Longtubes or Hurst + LCA relo. brackets? I really am close to getting some Pacesetter longtubes soon, but my friend advised to get a Hurst shifter and LCA relocation brackets ASAP before headers. (wheelhop sucks). I've got sportline springs, and unsure of the shifter, but its not stock I believe, and feels nothing like an amazing Hurst.
Which part would you guys upgrade first? So far i've only got the BBK TB, Ram air box, Hooker Aerochamber + cutout. I also have a Pacesetter 3" ORY thats been in my closet since February. Either one that I get it may be another month until I can buy the other pieces.
Which part would you guys upgrade first? So far i've only got the BBK TB, Ram air box, Hooker Aerochamber + cutout. I also have a Pacesetter 3" ORY thats been in my closet since February. Either one that I get it may be another month until I can buy the other pieces.
Well, with the LT's, you're going to have to get a tune. You don't have to, I guess, but you'll probably have the SES code without one, and running pretty rich. So, there's another $125+. Or just around $75, if you have a cable and laptop, and can have a tune e-mailed to you. Or free, if you can do it yourself. You're not really going to see any difference with the Relocation bracket and Hurst shifter though. I'd get some aftermarket LCA's before relocation brackets anyways. My vote is for Pacesetter LT's. But, either way, it's still up to you.
Teching In
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if the hurst is a much shorter throw than the one you have on your car now, then you will probably shave more tenths off your 1/4 mile time with that. if you dont really care about ET's, get longtubes. you will get more power and also a better exhaust note.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Rapid City, SD
I raced my friends 02 WS6 A4 last night with lid and catback w/ no cats. I was right on him from 40 to about 100, never leaving his rear bumper. The next 2 races i constantly missed 3rd, and I think its because of this shifter or heated clutch fluid, it was in the slot for 3rd gear but wouldn't go in soon enough. And 2nd shift is good spin and hop for me.
I do plan on getting a mail order tune sometime after heads but not right away..
I do plan on getting a mail order tune sometime after heads but not right away..
I can't seem to recommend the slp shifter with a short stick to people enough. Real cheap price wise but is a great combination. I'm really baffled why no one ever suggests it, perhaps everyone just jumps on the hurst/b&m train of thought. I've never missed the 2-3 shift. So get longtubes and a affordable shifter.
I can't seem to recommend the slp shifter with a short stick to people enough. Real cheap price wise but is a great combination. I'm really baffled why no one ever suggests it, perhaps everyone just jumps on the hurst/b&m train of thought. I've never missed the 2-3 shift. So get longtubes and a affordable shifter.
Do you have DR's? Because I've heard before that doing LCA's without DR's is basically pointless and you're not going to see any difference really, because the tires won't grip well enough anyways.
Shifter is the first mod you ever do! The stocker is junk for bangin gears, unless you granny shift. If that's the case you need an a4 lol, no but really the shifter will greatly reduce the chance of missing gears, bending shift forks, and tearin up syncros!
No, I'm on street tires still. I thought I would see a little difference but oh well. Tires are expensive.
I would do Long Tubes just for the sound difference but LCA's made a nice difference for me. If it were me I'd get the LT's then next I would get some LCA's and some LCA Relocation Brackets so you can get back the lost suspension geometry you have with those springs. Your traction should improve alot. Also throw in an adjustable panhard if your rear is off center with those springs.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Rapid City, SD
Another good point. It's got a nonadjustable PHR on it, axle sits a little to the right. Owner before me installed it
I can't tell what shifter this has, but it's got a 6.5" short stick, and 2nd and 4th hit the console. A stock one shouldn't do that
I can't tell what shifter this has, but it's got a 6.5" short stick, and 2nd and 4th hit the console. A stock one shouldn't do that
Actually, the stock one will with a short stick. I hear about it all the time. Most people switch to the factory Hurst atleast to keep it from happening. Mine was very close to hitting with the stock shifter.
When you do the longtubes, I would change out those Bosch Platinum +2 plugs for some NGK TR6s if you are still using the N20. TR5's if you aren't.
A good shifter should be the first mod for M6 cars as stated above. Makes a huge difference for fast shifting. Good luck with the car.
A good shifter should be the first mod for M6 cars as stated above. Makes a huge difference for fast shifting. Good luck with the car.