EL T1

iTrader: (1)

I searched for all kinds of tips. I know I have to bleed it and did with a Blue point radiator fill tool. Theres no way there is air in the system.
Parts replaced: Water pump (parts store)
radiator
180 t-stat
radiator cap (GM)

A mechanic who installed the radiator hooked up a guage with a sensor in the drivers side head. He removed the factory sensor. At idle the gauge will peg 250 degrees within a minute. Although i touch the tank with my hand. barely warm to the touch. I dont know what else to do. Any thing else you can recommend?

BTW the oil pressure gauge. where should the needle be at idle?

95camaro383

i had the same problem with my car, it said it was overheating but the radiator wasnt hot... i didnt think i had a air pocket in it but i did... i drain all the fluid and redid it again didnt overheat since then

EL T1

iTrader: (1)

I just did that today. yesterday I tried to bleed it and nothin came out. The temp got way too high so i just shut it down. I still had the bleeder open and it kept letting air out, for maybe 30 seconds. And then i tiny bubble came out.

EL T1

iTrader: (1)

Do you think running the car without a maf will have anything to do with it?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Here is what I would do. Let the car completely cool down. Open up the radiator cap. Loosen the bleeder screws. Unbolt the thermostat housing from the water pump. Remove the thermostat. Fill at the water pump until full. Replace the thermostat and bolt the housing back on. Fill at the radiator until you see coolant coming out of the bleeder screws. Tighten the screws. Top off radiator, replace cap, and you should be all good.

EDIT: All while be extremely careful not to saturate your opti!

No.

EL T1

iTrader: (1)

ok. I will try this. But you say "screws". Is there more than one bleeder? The only one im aware of is the one on the t-stat. Thanks!

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

There should be one on the heater hose that goes to the top passenger side of the water pump.
http://shbox.com/1/bleeders.jpg

EL T1

iTrader: (1)

Ok. I did exactly what you said. Started the car and when the temp got to 190, I opened the bleeder. A little dribble of water came out of both of them. Closed it up. but the temp on this gauge kept rising. Although after I did what you told me the temp went up alot slower than previous times.

If i can get a scantool hooked up to this car can I read the actual temp through the PCM. Do those laser temp testers work?

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

The pcm uses the gauge in the water pump. The dash uses the one in the head.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Don't open the bleeder screws when the car is hot. Only use it when you are filling up the cooling system after the car has cooled off completely. If temp went up slower, you probably got alot of air out of the system. It may take a couple of more top offs to get the car fully filled. Are the fans coming on? You know that on a stock tune the car will go all the way up to 226* before the fans come on and the guage will hover at ~210* at idle after a long time.

EL T1

iTrader: (1)

Well i did have them open while i was filling. But after i started it and the temp was rising I just opened them thinking there may be some air.

So i should repeat the filling process?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Yeah. Fill the car with the bleeder screws open, after the car has completely cooled off. Top off the radiator and let the car idle. The temp should rise gradually to ~226* and then it should fluctuate but stay there. Make sure the fans are on at that time. If it stays around there without going into the red, then you are in the clear.