LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

My motor is down at the shop and I am about 3 grand deep into it. Most of the money hasn't been spent yet and I have a couple expectations from the end result.

I want reliability or at least something that I can take to the track and beat it up and then drive it around town.

I would really like to see somewhere between 350 - 400 at the wheels. 400 would be awesome.

I already spoke with the builder and we think were going to go with a forged steel crank, eagle H beam rods, and JE pistons. What do you guys think about this setup?

More importantly heads. Keeps the stockers and just work them out? AFR? Trickflows? Edelbrock?

Let me know.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

If you are going to stay N/A buy the lightest, best quality rotating assembly that you can afford. The heads would be dependant on your cam choice and the rpm range that you want the motor to run in.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

I would like to see this motor stay at least with the stock 6200 rpm redline but if I could get it even higher that would be great!

do you have any reccomendations on the rotating assembly or does what i have down seem pretty good?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Are you building a 355? 383?

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

Rebuilding the 350. Nothing more. I was thinking about 383 but egh, I really dont want to break the bank on a 383 build. Id rather just put the money into phenomenal parts for a 350 then to put the money into the work that goes into a 383 and put sub par to mediocre parts in it.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I see. From what you listed, you should have a stout short block. As for the heads, if you have the money, AFR's are nice pieces, if not, P&P heads with the right cam can get you to your 400rwhp goal. Advanced Induction and Elliot Portworks are two places that I know of.

qwk93ta

iTrader: (13)

My 93 T/A, M6 put down over 370 RWHP with a hot cam and ported stock heads.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

DART PRO1 heads are also nice.. i know because i have em

YodiBrodi

go look at the prices for forged cranks and you'll see the price for a 3.48" stroke will be identical to a 3.75" stroke. the crank throws being the difference between a 383 and 355. only cost difference btween the two is the block might need a little clearance work on a 383 . 6" forged i-beam rods are more than adequate at your desired power level and cheaper than h-beams, eagle parts... eh. some ppl are fine with them, others hate them. with the heads, as long as your cores are in good shape, ported stockers are more than capable of making the power you want. keep learning, asking questions, reading and researching before you decide how you want to build your new engine. know every part you need and know why you chose each part and how it will help or hinder your engine's ability make power reliably. building an engjne is a lot like getting tattoo. do it too hastily or cheaply and you will never be pleased with the work.

91rs355

iTrader: (27)

I'm running Callies Compstar 6'' rods and crank on my 383, in my opinion their a better piece than the eagle stuff and about the same price. As for heads I like the AFR's and that's what I'm running on my motor, but reworked stockers are ok too.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

so there is no issue regarding reworked stockers flowing well even with a 383 setup? i just dont want to button the motor all up and realize that my engine is choking for air (383 setup) with some ported stockers and be like damn i shoulda got some new heads.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

possible to go 383 and throw the LT4 heads/cam on? big numbers to be made or waste of time and money? just a thought

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

The LT4 cam would be a very mild cam in a 383. I would definitely step up to a larger cam.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'd build a forged 383. It was said before, but the price on a forged crank is usually the same depending on the stroke. What's the point of having the best parts in a forged engine if you don't plan on boosting or spraying it?

+1 and they are really cheap.

fastburn

im in the same boat,doing my research on building my lt1 up.

however i plan on spraying the car so forged is the only way to go for me.i found a local guy selling a 0 mile shortblock.has a callie crank,oliver rods,billet 4bolt main caps,forged pistons but we dont know what the comp will be with the stock heads.

i plan on porting the stock heads/intake and runnning a very strong 355 bottomend.um and juicing it.

looks like 6" rods in this shortblock.machine shop is puling a piston/rod to get the details on the parts.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like your best bet, would be port the stockers, from either Lloyd or AI, and get a custom grind cam. You'll want to tell (your choice shop) your goals for the car, street time,etc.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

If you are planning to run N/A, the stock crank is fine. Several companies make light weight rods, wrist pins, and pistons. For the power levels that you want you really don't need a super heavy duty rod, so you can save a little money there. JE makes great pistons. I am sure that they offer some light weight options.

Good Luck,

Daren

fbody_chris

does anyone know about how much power a LT1 would get if i did a eldebrock LT4 top end and a hot cam and .40 over piston no change in stroke, BBK headers and 2500 stall?

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Everyone seems to think the Edelbrock LT4 Package is a huge waste.... I dont know if there are any real world cars out there yet to prove it a waste, however, as much success as the LE and AI guys have I see no reason to turn to Edelbrock anyway... I too would be interested in REAL power numbers from this kit tho..

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

A friend of mine local recently took the LTX Extreme Street Title at the 08 LTX Shootout with a 383 on Ported Stockers... Runs well into the 10s on that setup...