*PICS* Lt1 Hsr Design
As stated above, if the intake makes good power over stock and really shines with some heads/cam or maybe F/I then I will be coughing up whatever it takes to get it on my car.
hsr from holley as is, is abit over 300 dollars for base and plenum. i could see 500-600 for a modded one that fits. more r & d into designing better runners i can see 700.
i dont think you'll make much more power on a stock headed bolt on car over base LT1 intake. I can see more torque...you will make more lowend torque since the runners are longer but hp will be hard to change. not a big deal tho, more power under the curve with more torque everywhere will make the car faster. its not about peak hp as you should gain some on the lowend
This is more than just throwing A hsr on an lt1. The lt1 manifold is a lot like a mini ram. Now, on a L98 engine, the hsr and the mini ram are just about even when it comes to generating hp with the hsr having a good advantage in torque. With the lt1 starting off with a mini ram like intake, what can we do to the hsr to surpass the hp #s of the stocker and keep killer torque?
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hsr from holley as is, is abit over 300 dollars for base and plenum. i could see 500-600 for a modded one that fits. more r & d into designing better runners i can see 700.
i dont think you'll make much more power on a stock headed bolt on car over base LT1 intake. I can see more torque...you will make more lowend torque since the runners are longer but hp will be hard to change. not a big deal tho, more power under the curve with more torque everywhere will make the car faster. its not about peak hp as you should gain some on the lowend
i dont think you'll make much more power on a stock headed bolt on car over base LT1 intake. I can see more torque...you will make more lowend torque since the runners are longer but hp will be hard to change. not a big deal tho, more power under the curve with more torque everywhere will make the car faster. its not about peak hp as you should gain some on the lowend
I think the price is decent as long as the other two don't go up astronomically.
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Update on the price. For the stage1, if we DO NOT make it an air gap and leave the material in between the runners, the price will be in the $600 range. The stage 2 wont be too far from that. We can make the air gap another option.
if the other stages are really high flowing and air gap design, and such a big improvement over base HSR as from holley, hell i'd be interested in upgrading my current sbc hsr to your design. i'm gonna be looking for more performance over winter for next year, thats for sure
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Would the air gap be worth the price? Have you dynoed before and after air gap?
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1) The intake would not run as hot. Thats would be due to the fact that the aluminum that fills the base and surrounds the runners acts like a sponge for heat. It would be beneficial for folks that like running those back, to back, to back runs. There is a good difference in plenum and runner temperature between the air gap and non-air gap we've noticed.
2) It reduces weight, close to 5lbs.
3) It looks better. We were thinking about using a high polished plate on the bottom. It would give it a mirror like reflection from the bottom looking up.
For those that dont normally race their cars, and just want some extra power, they could save $100.
Did you ever answer if this will come complete with all the provisions for fuel lines (either new ones or ability to use the stock LT1 rails), throttle cable mount, and gasket kit?
Thanks
Thanks
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We can include all of that with the package. We think the stock fuel rails will fit.The pluming is the issue but we can make a kit for that . It will only need intake gaskets. The plenum is welded to the manifold so no gasket there. I'm not sure about the mount, we will know shortly though.
I guess it would be up to the individual whether it would be worth the extra $100. I dont think it would make much of a difference on a dyno but it does have its perks:
1) The intake would not run as hot. Thats would be due to the fact that the aluminum that fills the base and surrounds the runners acts like a sponge for heat. It would be beneficial for folks that like running those back, to back, to back runs. There is a good difference in plenum and runner temperature between the air gap and non-air gap we've noticed.
2) It reduces weight, close to 5lbs.
3) It looks better. We were thinking about using a high polished plate on the bottom. It would give it a mirror like reflection from the bottom looking up.
For those that dont normally race their cars, and just want some extra power, they could save $100.
1) The intake would not run as hot. Thats would be due to the fact that the aluminum that fills the base and surrounds the runners acts like a sponge for heat. It would be beneficial for folks that like running those back, to back, to back runs. There is a good difference in plenum and runner temperature between the air gap and non-air gap we've noticed.
2) It reduces weight, close to 5lbs.
3) It looks better. We were thinking about using a high polished plate on the bottom. It would give it a mirror like reflection from the bottom looking up.
For those that dont normally race their cars, and just want some extra power, they could save $100.
If these are 2 seperate operations what would the cost of them be individually and will you offer a package that both removes the water crossover and machines the air gap?
Sorry for the questions, just trying to educate myself. I'd love to see a pic of the HSR with the water crossover removed.