msd opti....
msd opti.... hey, my car has an msd opti on it...and cap and rotor. My car stutters at about 4200 rpm's, and it drives me crazy. im pretty sure it never did it until after the msd was installed. It still has the warranty on it,but i would rather not have to pay to have it done again. (dont have the space or tools at my house to do it...damn condos.)
Has anyone had a defective brand new MSD opti/cap and rotor? Thanx
Has anyone had a defective brand new MSD opti/cap and rotor? Thanx
The MSDs arfe know for the rotor comming apart, my 1st one did it in the middle of a run with an SS and it pissed me off...took me forever to figure out what it was, but it's a simple fix, pop the ca off, catch the screws and put locktite on the screws....FYI: this needed to be done before it was installed on the car...Some assembly required
The MSDs arfe know for the rotor comming apart, my 1st one did it in the middle of a run with an SS and it pissed me off...took me forever to figure out what it was, but it's a simple fix, pop the ca off, catch the screws and put locktite on the screws....FYI: this needed to be done before it was installed on the car...Some assembly required
Sure you dont have any coolant leaks (like maybe through the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump, leaking onto the opti)? Been seeing alot of those lately killing optis....
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thanks for another quick reply man...i havent noticed any coolant leaks at all. it has a CSI EWP with about 3k miles on it
edit--- also, pretty much everything else on the car is new as well. only things that arent new are the o2 sensors(which need to be changed, but shouldnt affect WOT..), and the MAP sensor which i tested for voltage and it was within spec
edit--- also, pretty much everything else on the car is new as well. only things that arent new are the o2 sensors(which need to be changed, but shouldnt affect WOT..), and the MAP sensor which i tested for voltage and it was within spec
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah, if it was your O2s it would be affecting power output all over the place not just after 4200rpm at WOT...
Dont happen to have a fuel pressure gauge or know anyone who has one that you can hook up real quick? Id be interested to know what your FP would be (as this is quite a bit easier to check first before having to tear open your setup again to check the opti).
And as someone said above, did you loctite the rotor screws on the MSD? It was common (I think they fixed it now) for the screws to back out at high RPM, but it seems like it stopped happening.
Word to the wise, most people who claim the MSD isnt a quality piece have never seen/used one. I have one and its awsome, if it was crap it wouldent be on my car. (I also encourage you to check out my thread entitled "Just picked up an MSD opti, would you like my opinion?" it has all the info you would need and MANY first hand reviews of the MSD from people who HAVE ACTUALLY RUN IT AND SEEN IT
)
Dont happen to have a fuel pressure gauge or know anyone who has one that you can hook up real quick? Id be interested to know what your FP would be (as this is quite a bit easier to check first before having to tear open your setup again to check the opti).
And as someone said above, did you loctite the rotor screws on the MSD? It was common (I think they fixed it now) for the screws to back out at high RPM, but it seems like it stopped happening.
Word to the wise, most people who claim the MSD isnt a quality piece have never seen/used one. I have one and its awsome, if it was crap it wouldent be on my car. (I also encourage you to check out my thread entitled "Just picked up an MSD opti, would you like my opinion?" it has all the info you would need and MANY first hand reviews of the MSD from people who HAVE ACTUALLY RUN IT AND SEEN IT
) Last edited by Fixxer99TA; Aug 19, 2008 at 02:02 AM. Reason: 3am jibberish
Yeah, if it was your O2s it would be affecting power output and NOT overheating.
Dont happen to have a fuel pressure gauge or know anyone who has one that you can hook up real quick? Id be interested to know what your FP would be (as this is quite a bit easier to check first before having to tear open your setup again to check the opti).
And as someone said above, did you loctite the rotor screws on the MSD? It was common (I think they fixed it now) for the screws to back out at high RPM, but it seems like it stopped happening.
Word to the wise, most people who claim the MSD isnt a quality piece have never seen/used one. I have one and its awsome, if it was crap it wouldent be on my car. (I also encourage you to check out my thread entitled "Just picked up an MSD opti, would you like my opinion?" it has all the info you would need and MANY first hand reviews of the MSD from people who HAVE ACTUALLY RUN IT AND SEEN IT)
Dont happen to have a fuel pressure gauge or know anyone who has one that you can hook up real quick? Id be interested to know what your FP would be (as this is quite a bit easier to check first before having to tear open your setup again to check the opti).
And as someone said above, did you loctite the rotor screws on the MSD? It was common (I think they fixed it now) for the screws to back out at high RPM, but it seems like it stopped happening.
Word to the wise, most people who claim the MSD isnt a quality piece have never seen/used one. I have one and its awsome, if it was crap it wouldent be on my car. (I also encourage you to check out my thread entitled "Just picked up an MSD opti, would you like my opinion?" it has all the info you would need and MANY first hand reviews of the MSD from people who HAVE ACTUALLY RUN IT AND SEEN IT
) Dont mind me, was helping someone else with the overheating problem and got that stuck in my head. That + 3am = me need sleep. 
I will edit my last post so nobody else gets confused
The loctite is very important, make sure if you take it apart to check you use red loctite. Many of the earlier MSD optis came apart because there was nothing used on the threads holding the rotor in place (theres only two small screws, revving like some people do they can back out EASILY).
I will edit my last post so nobody else gets confused
The loctite is very important, make sure if you take it apart to check you use red loctite. Many of the earlier MSD optis came apart because there was nothing used on the threads holding the rotor in place (theres only two small screws, revving like some people do they can back out EASILY).
I firmly believe that the MSD billet opti is a much, much, better product than OEM. It didn't fix my high rpm rotor eating engine, but I still would recommend it over OEM, any day.
My bastardized LTCC/MSD seems to be working just fine.
D has his opinions, and everyone gets to hear them, all the time.
My bastardized LTCC/MSD seems to be working just fine.
D has his opinions, and everyone gets to hear them, all the time.
