LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Common Engine Reassembly Mistakes

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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 10:29 PM
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Default Common Engine Reassembly Mistakes

Alright so i'll be putting my 355 together here in a couple weeks. I was just wondering if there was any helpful tips or cautions you guys could give me. This is my first motor and i want it to last, and not fail due to a newbie assembly mistake.
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 11:21 PM
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keep everything extremely clean. Take your time, its a good idea to mark each colt after its torqued. use good assembly lube on bearings. coat cam and timing set, push rod ends ect. Also prime the oil pump.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 10:02 AM
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If you're using a new crank (does not necessarily apply to reusing stock crank)
Make sure the crank is balanced, either internally or to match the flywheel/flexplate.
I just got burned on that. I trusted someone, and ended up with an extremely expensive
and running vibrator instead of a 400+rwhp motor.

Otherwise, use quality parts, double-check all fastners and gaskets and keep it clean.
A roll of shrinkwrap works well to keep everything clean when you finish working for the
day/week/session ...
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 10:48 AM
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What parts are you using? Which head gaskets, and head bolts? Makes a difference on how to assemble.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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make sure you let your lifters soak for a little while in some clean oil. it will help them pump up on start up.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by James Montigny
If you're using a new crank (does not necessarily apply to reusing stock crank)
Make sure the crank is balanced, either internally or to match the flywheel/flexplate.
I just got burned on that. I trusted someone, and ended up with an extremely expensive
and running vibrator instead of a 400+rwhp motor.

Otherwise, use quality parts, double-check all fastners and gaskets and keep it clean.
A roll of shrinkwrap works well to keep everything clean when you finish working for the
day/week/session ...
Thanks James. I can't wait to see the new 383. Yeah i'm reusing the stock crank, but upgraded to forged rods and pistons. So i had everything rebalacned externally. Its a M6, so i had two flywheels balanced with the crank so if i ever have to have my flywheel shaved, I'll have a back up. Which is probably overkill, but oh well.

Originally Posted by Pampered-Z
What parts are you using? Which head gaskets, and head bolts? Makes a difference on how to assemble.
ARP Main Studs, ARP Rod bolts, ARP Head Bolts, and Felt Pro Head Gaskets.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 09:33 PM
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don't put assembly lube on the BACK of the bearings. You don't want them to move. It sounds stupid, but I have seen it plenty of times
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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dont forget to make sure the metallic ball is present and set beneath the rear main cap (the one the oil pump bolts to)
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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Clean the block when you get it back from the machine shop. Don't assume the shop did a good job, because they never do. Double check all of your torque measurements and use the correct values for whatever you lube the fastener with. I prefer using moly lube that comes with the ARP fasteners.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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After cleaning the block, use thread chasers to clean out all threads in the block that involve torque specs. Lightly oil the threads and clean the bolts/studs before torquing. You will get a much more accurate results.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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check and make sure your dipstick tube lines up so that the dipstick will clear the windage tray. otherwise you will not beable to use a dipstick... like me (but as soon as i get the motivation to pull the pan it will be all good.)
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 10:04 PM
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Make sure no parts are left over. haha. Like rod bearing 1/2 shells.

Resist the tempation to delete the stock windage tray.
(windage trays will help keep oil pressure steady).

Karl Ellwein
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 10:10 PM
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OH and here is the biggest miss....
when you start your motor for the first time and its running but theres no oil pressure?

then you start to think??? did I put in the oil pump drive shaft,,, duh

i'm lucky its hasn't happen to me, but I read some stories about other people who have forgoten...
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 1994Z28Lt1
dont forget to make sure the metallic ball is present and set beneath the rear main cap (the one the oil pump bolts to)
do you have a picture of that by any chance?
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