***Ai 383R long block with TFS 215 heads goes 9.6@139.9mph NA ***
#41
Man.. It's like Deja Vu'.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=29
Knew i seen that line somewhere before...
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=29
Knew i seen that line somewhere before...
Everytime Rick's car runs the number, people post "But his car is magic." The only thing extra ordinary from his parts list, is a competent and dedicated driver. My response to the arguments is always the same. In every one of these threads, I tell it like it is.
You all fantasize that Rick or Ai is misleading the public or playing games or using a ringer. I think Ai lists on their website that the average person won't duplicate these results. The average person won't put the time, money or effort into the cause. But any person that is willing to do so, could duplicate this setup and with time do the same thing.
Here is an exact quote from their site:
“Here's a rundown of the modifications on Rick's bolt-on 94 Trans-Am. It's a fantastic example of what a highly efficient topend is capable of in a properly set up car. The only "trick" here is a competent and competitive driver willing to put in the necessary seat-time to dial-in the combination detailed below. To be 100% clear, performance like this is duplicable, but don't expect to throw the parts on your car and run these numbers right off the trailer. Again, this example is put forth to verify that the potential of our LT1 Production Casting based offerings is second to none. Any setup, from street to full race, will take significant time on the track to reach it's potential!”
Taken from here: http://www.advancedinduction.com/Abare.html
#46
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
The reason these results are not the norm is because people like to dismiss things like a point of compression, 19 points more octane and 400lbs as trivial.
The average person is incapable of intelligent comparison of things and instead relies on "feel good BS" and pretends it is data. There are lots of cases about other stuff breaking and it gets dismissed as a fluke no matter how many times it happens, but the right folks deny the problem and stoke a few ego and it all goes away.
Don't believe me go look for threads about water and optis.
The average person is incapable of intelligent comparison of things and instead relies on "feel good BS" and pretends it is data. There are lots of cases about other stuff breaking and it gets dismissed as a fluke no matter how many times it happens, but the right folks deny the problem and stoke a few ego and it all goes away.
Don't believe me go look for threads about water and optis.
#48
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
There was really nothing streetable about Overton's car. It's ridiculous to compare it to this setup. Last I checked Overton still had the record of being "fastest N/A" for what was done? So why the fuss?
#50
Alright ... I'll say it now. I appoint myself the supreme authority on the subject.
I don't care if you drive it in the street every day and take your mom to her doctor's appointments.
You transition from street car to "race car" if (not all items apply to this particular car)
- You replace any of your windows with lexan
- You remove major interior panels (annoying kickpanel excluded)
- You drive around on slicks all the time
- You remove any significant amount of the forward or rear chassis/body and replace with sheet metal or tubes.
- You run a cam that can't idle under 1200RPM or needs to be adjusted every few months.
- You require race fuel
- You have anything bigger then 4.11s in the rear
- Your car can't survive a 2 hour trip around a major metro area at rush hour.
- Your rings destroy your cylinder walls in under 20K miles
- You replace your perfectly good leather/cloth adjustable seats with race seats.
- You "swiss cheese" anything on the car
- Open headers
I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it.
But to say "Yeah, I run 9's in my street car" when your car looks like a freakin' tin can with wheels on it is BS.
There done .... </discussion>
#52
11 Second Club
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW Chicago burbs
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Alright ... I'll say it now. I appoint myself the supreme authority on the subject.
I don't care if you drive it in the street every day and take your mom to her doctor's appointments.
You transition from street car to "race car" if (not all items apply to this particular car)
- You have anything bigger then 4.11s in the rear
I don't care if you drive it in the street every day and take your mom to her doctor's appointments.
You transition from street car to "race car" if (not all items apply to this particular car)
- You have anything bigger then 4.11s in the rear
#53
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
To some who want to nit pick the **** out of it. Could Overton's car perform like it did on the track on 93 octane? Again I ask, since Overton still is reigning champion why are you trying to take away from this accomplishment? Is it an insecurity thing? I don't get it.
#56
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (43)
I'll give Ricks car props, it's apparently a good combination
And not taking anything away from it, there are many that have done it before him, quite a few years ago in either race trim or street trim
So be it, they are all great accomplishments that have cost them alot of money and time, that's what it boils down too..
#57
10 Second Club
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Alright ... I'll say it now. I appoint myself the supreme authority on the subject.
I don't care if you drive it in the street every day and take your mom to her doctor's appointments.
You transition from street car to "race car" if (not all items apply to this particular car)
- You replace any of your windows with lexan
- You remove major interior panels (annoying kickpanel excluded)
- You drive around on slicks all the time
- You remove any significant amount of the forward or rear chassis/body and replace with sheet metal or tubes.
- You run a cam that can't idle under 1200RPM or needs to be adjusted every few months.
- You require race fuel
- You have anything bigger then 4.11s in the rear
- Your car can't survive a 2 hour trip around a major metro area at rush hour.
- Your rings destroy your cylinder walls in under 20K miles
- You replace your perfectly good leather/cloth adjustable seats with race seats.
- You "swiss cheese" anything on the car
- Open headers
I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it.
But to say "Yeah, I run 9's in my street car" when your car looks like a freakin' tin can with wheels on it is BS.
There done .... </discussion>
I don't care if you drive it in the street every day and take your mom to her doctor's appointments.
You transition from street car to "race car" if (not all items apply to this particular car)
- You replace any of your windows with lexan
- You remove major interior panels (annoying kickpanel excluded)
- You drive around on slicks all the time
- You remove any significant amount of the forward or rear chassis/body and replace with sheet metal or tubes.
- You run a cam that can't idle under 1200RPM or needs to be adjusted every few months.
- You require race fuel
- You have anything bigger then 4.11s in the rear
- Your car can't survive a 2 hour trip around a major metro area at rush hour.
- Your rings destroy your cylinder walls in under 20K miles
- You replace your perfectly good leather/cloth adjustable seats with race seats.
- You "swiss cheese" anything on the car
- Open headers
I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it.
But to say "Yeah, I run 9's in my street car" when your car looks like a freakin' tin can with wheels on it is BS.
There done .... </discussion>
I just saw this thread and agree w/ the streetcar rules I basically built my ls1 car with the same thing in mind. BTW Joe o's car is no street car it even has a fiberglass dash. Here are a few pics of my car which I feel I am on the very edge but the car is streetable.