air in system...Please help!!
i then go out for a test drive, still working fine going in and out of gear with ease when just criusing. as soon as i go WOT, it wont go in secondwithout a bit of force. so i force into second and the clutch wont return all of the way to the top.

i start back home and now have to slam it in gear for first and reverse. Just to get to where i can even slam it in gear i have to pump the clutch about ten times.
after driving for a while just criusing, it frees up and it fine until i go WOT.
Ive bled it and replaced components and bled it some more. At this point id like to drive it off of a cliff but somehow keep managing to try other things without getting too frustrated.
PLEASE HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM!!!
The proper procedure is to push the clutch pedal to the floor, open the bleeder, bleed the air/fluid out, close the bleeder valve, and then pull the pedal back up to the top. Repeat until pedal has good feel to it when pressed and released with bleeder closed.
i did it the exact way that you said the first time. then i talked to a friend that works at a speed shop and he said to do it the way i just stated because i didnot bench bleed the master before installing it. he said i may be able to pull the air out through the slave.
also i talked to another friend and he explained to me how to gravity bleed it. whats a good length of time to gravity bleed.
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i did it the exact way that you said the first time. then i talked to a friend that works at a speed shop and he said to do it the way i just stated because i didnot bench bleed the master before installing it. he said i may be able to pull the air out through the slave.
also i talked to another friend and he explained to me how to gravity bleed it. whats a good length of time to gravity bleed.
You can "bench bleed" the master while its installed in the car actually, its not very hard.
What you need to do is disconnect the quick connect fitting from the slave cylinder. Make sure you DO NOT push the pedal down while the fitting is disconnected or you will blow the master. Next, take a very small (like a 5mm 1/4 drive socket) and push it into the end of the quick connect fitting - this will open the fitting and let the fluid out. While holding the fitting open with the socket, push the clutch pedal to the floor, hold it, and then release the quick connect so it closes. Check that the master is full, and repeat. Do this until you get nothing but fluid coming out of the line. Then you can reconnect the line to the slave and finish bleeding the system normally.
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thanks for help

i guess the only thing i have left to come up with is that i have a leak somewhere. i wanna just drive it off a cliff at this point.
Also, I've installed several master cylinders (brake and clutch) and never bench bled any of them, and I've never had a problem - ever.
Also if you're insistant on not getting an adjustable master cylinder to see if it fixes the problem you can try getting a MitiVac from autozone and pull air out through the master cylinder... probably won't pull any out though, and if it does it will go slow as all hell. These are actually just intended for use on bleeding brake calipers/slave cyls and hold a constant vacuum to make it a one-man job, but they can work the other way around too.
Last edited by ProductionS14; Dec 3, 2008 at 10:07 PM.
i am using a friends mity vac and does about as much good as bleeding it the old fashioned way.
whether adjustable or not the new master should work.... right
it is fine in all gears when just criusing. once i go WOT the peddle is spongy again and its a bitch to get in all gears. clutch reservior did not come with the master cylinder.

