streetsurfinseth

i had air in the clutch system and it wasnt making clutch pressure so i went and bought a master cylinder. After bleeding the hell out of it, there was still a ton of air in the system somewhere. So i went out and got a slave cylinder. installed the slave and proceeded to bleed the **** out of the system for like 1 and a half hours. seemed fine.

i then go out for a test drive, still working fine going in and out of gear with ease when just criusing. as soon as i go WOT, it wont go in secondwithout a bit of force. so i force into second and the clutch wont return all of the way to the top.

i start back home and now have to slam it in gear for first and reverse. Just to get to where i can even slam it in gear i have to pump the clutch about ten times.

after driving for a while just criusing, it frees up and it fine until i go WOT.

Ive bled it and replaced components and bled it some more. At this point id like to drive it off of a cliff but somehow keep managing to try other things without getting too frustrated.

PLEASE HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM!!!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Are you sure it's Air in the Lines, how does the Fluid look in the Resevoir?

streetsurfinseth

crystal clear.

streetsurfinseth

and it also doesnt seem to be going into the system when its bled.

ProductionS14

Do you have a remote bleeder? Maybe an adjustable master cylinder would fix this problem... my buddy on his SS had a similar issue and bled it maybe 50 times before he got the MC and fixed the issue. Not a gaurantee. haha.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

How are you bleeding it??

The proper procedure is to push the clutch pedal to the floor, open the bleeder, bleed the air/fluid out, close the bleeder valve, and then pull the pedal back up to the top. Repeat until pedal has good feel to it when pressed and released with bleeder closed.

streetsurfinseth

i have someone in the car pumping. when the pedal pumps up or after about 20 pumps, he tells me i crack bleeder as he slowly pushes clutch down to floor. then once at the floor i emmediately close bleeder and repeat.

i did it the exact way that you said the first time. then i talked to a friend that works at a speed shop and he said to do it the way i just stated because i didnot bench bleed the master before installing it. he said i may be able to pull the air out through the slave.

also i talked to another friend and he explained to me how to gravity bleed it. whats a good length of time to gravity bleed.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Not bench bleeding the master is probably a large part of your problem.

You can "bench bleed" the master while its installed in the car actually, its not very hard.

What you need to do is disconnect the quick connect fitting from the slave cylinder. Make sure you DO NOT push the pedal down while the fitting is disconnected or you will blow the master. Next, take a very small (like a 5mm 1/4 drive socket) and push it into the end of the quick connect fitting - this will open the fitting and let the fluid out. While holding the fitting open with the socket, push the clutch pedal to the floor, hold it, and then release the quick connect so it closes. Check that the master is full, and repeat. Do this until you get nothing but fluid coming out of the line. Then you can reconnect the line to the slave and finish bleeding the system normally.

streetsurfinseth

awesome. finally i know how to bench bleed the master. lmao. thanks man i will do that right away and have a response as soon as i get a result. probly a few hours or so.
thanks for help

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

No prob, let us know how it goes.

streetsurfinseth

ok... i bench bled the **** out of the master and plugged it in and bled the **** outta the slave. both of which failed to do too much good. i got into it for a test drive and just cruised and it was fine. as soon as i went WOT it wanted to be a bitch and not go into gear again. once i slow down and start driving normal again, just fine. uurrrrgh

i guess the only thing i have left to come up with is that i have a leak somewhere. i wanna just drive it off a cliff at this point.

streetsurfinseth

anyone know????? its soooo frustrating

ProductionS14

Apparently didn't read my post? My friend had this exact same problem on his SS... got an adjustable master after doing what you just did about 30 times and hasn't had a problem since. If you don't have a remote bleeder, I'd go ahead and get one for the next time you pull the transmission off. Makes bleeding SO much easier.

Also, I've installed several master cylinders (brake and clutch) and never bench bled any of them, and I've never had a problem - ever.

Also if you're insistant on not getting an adjustable master cylinder to see if it fixes the problem you can try getting a MitiVac from autozone and pull air out through the master cylinder... probably won't pull any out though, and if it does it will go slow as all hell. These are actually just intended for use on bleeding brake calipers/slave cyls and hold a constant vacuum to make it a one-man job, but they can work the other way around too.

streetsurfinseth

i have a brand new master cylinder installed already. not adjustable but new. shouldnt just crap out just like that.

i am using a friends mity vac and does about as much good as bleeding it the old fashioned way.

whether adjustable or not the new master should work.... right

ProductionS14

no... not really... not for sure... i don't know why the ******* master isn't OEM adjustable ... i've done clutch installs on nissans/hondas and had to adjust the master cylinder/pedal engagement point to get it to feel right, sometimes clutches just act differently than other clutches i guess and need more input or throw to them, don't know why that would be but it for sure 100% fixed his problem, extremely similar as the one you're describing, on his SS. Sucks but... maybe you should look into it.

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

how does the clutch feel in 3rd, 4th, and 5th, 6th? did you grind any gears b4 this happened? and very stupid question, forgive me, did you get a clutch resivor or did you get a brake master cylinder?

streetsurfinseth

i was actually gonna go ahead and get an adjustable one but didnt have the money. so i went ahead and got oem 01-02 master and slave and installed them. im just saying that the is still spongy at WOT so id think that it would be something to do with air.

it is fine in all gears when just criusing. once i go WOT the peddle is spongy again and its a bitch to get in all gears. clutch reservior did not come with the master cylinder.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

did u remember to put the black rubber back on the resovoir cap for the clutch fluid? wont hold pressure unless its on.

streetsurfinseth

sure did... thanks

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

ok clutch res. and master cylinder are two different things on these cars, if u got the master cylinder, that doesn't help with the clutch system, master cylinder is completely seperated from the clutch.