ls7 clutch problem??
Key notes: blackish fluid, pedal engagement near floor, empty feel near top of pedal.
near floor should be alarms flying off in your head that something is seriously fubared. That means when trying to release the clutch, you need to all but use the ENTIRE master cylinder's volume to disengage it. Even then you are not guaranteed a complete disengagement. Stop driving, bleed the system. If it doesn't return to normal ie around 1/2 way and stay that way, I'd check for leaks. The master test is the easiest, disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave, try to push the pedal, if the pedal isn't rock hard and allows a good amount of movement, the master is faulty. If it stays rock hard, its the slave.
Sponsor pimp ahead: Get the tick master if its the master.
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I drove an additional 120 miles after that, 80% highway, but it never moved anymore than that until I swapped out my master to a newer piece which moved it up a bit more.
Highway miles mean nothing for the clutch break in because its NOT slipping. Think of the break in period as similar to brake pads. With brake pads, you do short stops getting material on the rotors and slowly work your way up to higher speed stops, but not putting in full stopping power until then. The clutch has to do the same thing, but it is the opposite of a brake system in that its always engaged. The only time it has a chance to break in is when you are just engaging it ie from a stop. Higher speed shifts are like the high speed stops and you don't want to do that till later in the break in as you will not get even material distribution onto the flywheel/pressure plate that way.
Amber at six speeds inc. told me otherwise. Had my trans rebuilt and got a new slave. Found out my old one was sticking. Now it engages half way out or 5-6 in off the floor where its suppose too. 


