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You are doing it correct. The only thing now is what is the right gap for you to follow. That is why I have my question above as there seems to be many opinions. As long as mine will function as is I'm leaving it.
Originally Posted by FRC450
So came across this thread and its been very useful. I bought a WS6 from a guy who said he just put a new flywheel and clutch in it but he thought still needed Master Cylinder. Pedal was sticking to floor, car would not hold engagement and start creeping forward when clutch did work (cold)
I put on a Tick master and mittyvac all the air out. Pedal has no pressure. So pulled tranny. Sure enough SPEC clutch is installed. I bought a new GM slave and Tick remote bleeder. Popping those on but anyhow thought I post pictures of my measurements. According to me the correct shim is already installed ?
Yes, I'm using a quicktime as well as a slightly shorter ZR1 bearing. I have close to 1.00" piston travel on this slave. From resting height to finger/bell clearance, I have close to .550" travel before it bottoms out, but I also have a lot if cushion On the back end. With my last similar set-up, keislers spec was .125-.375". I was somewhere in the .2xx range, a .113" shim will satisfy me ar .280"ish
I'd like to bump this to thank you for this information. I have a t56 with a quicktime bell housing as well and I am measuring .450"+/- 0.015" , so very similar to your numbers. I thought I was going crazy. This will need a special spacer. And I am also annoyed by SNLPerformance -- please stop saying your clutch doesn't need a shim. You can't possibly know everyone's combination. Making comments like that misleads people. I have a monster clutch and I definitely need a shim!
Here's what I'm thinking. Might be overkill, but want to just copy the tremec/borgerwarner design. I think that register on the front plate of the t56 is there not only to ensure the slave is somewhat concentric but also to stop the chance of shearing the slave bolts (since the register would take the load).
Am I doing this right? 06 GTO motor/transmission with 68k miles. Monster stage 3 clutch with their lightened flywheel. Flywheel torqued down to 74 ft/lbs, clutch torqued down to 52 ft/lbs. Bell housing is snugged tight to the block, slave spring is removed.
This is 1.960"
This is 2.381"
Same pic but with flash on
2.381 - 1.960 = 0.421 which is pretty far off considering a lot of people say Monsters never need to be shimmed. This is my first time doing any of this though. I noticed that the fingers of the pressure plate start to curve in at the very tips. I assume I measure to the closest point?
Am I doing this right? 06 GTO motor/transmission with 68k miles. Monster stage 3 clutch with their lightened flywheel. Flywheel torqued down to 74 ft/lbs, clutch torqued down to 52 ft/lbs. Bell housing is snugged tight to the block, slave spring is removed.
This is 1.960"
This is 2.381"
Same pic but with flash on
2.381 - 1.960 = 0.421 which is pretty far off considering a lot of people say Monsters never need to be shimmed. This is my first time doing any of this though. I noticed that the fingers of the pressure plate start to curve in at the very tips. I assume I measure to the closest point?
They are sending me a new slave to try. If it specs out the same I will need to use shims (already ordered from tick just in case). Basically they said the slave measurement I made doesn't seen like my slave is tall enough.
in to learn. plus, what are some different, "measurement tools" are people using? i cant imagine there is much room on a f-car's trans tunnel for a carpenter's square to fit.
The new TOB from monster came. This one had a transmission side measurement of 2.017. While this was better it still required a shim. I had to use some longer 10mm bolts for the slave as well because I didn't feel comfortable re-using the stock ones. With the shim in there it was only biting by a few threads.
They gave me the whole unit. The black bearing part, the spring, and the metal part that bolts to the transmission. I don't recall if it had "ap" on it. I know it had the part# and some number stamped into it.
Was asked by a couple people about specs for the shim I used. Here are the dimensions. Any local machinist should be able to make it for around $50. If not, message me.
That design looks better. The tick plates are just big washers so there is some left/right play. I centered it the best I could. The CNC'd lip seems like a better design to me.