jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

I decided to do the drill mod to my 2001 camaro ss and within 15 minutes of starting I broke the clutch pedal spring!!! So I put everything back together and gave up only to start doing it again 5 minutes later. The master cylinder took almost a hour to get out and even longer to get in and this was with two people working on the thing. So we finished up almost 6 hours later and the clutch pedal has no pressure,We bled the the system through the quickconnect but not through the bleeder valve.Would renting a mighty vac work?or should I just get back in there in the morning and use the bleeder valve?

gsxr1k2

iTrader: (6)

I'm probably not much help for ya but I would recommend Ticks upgrade. Pretty cheap for the performance and Life of your tranny, trust me I wish I would have done it earlier.
http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...dy/hydraulics/

Kev70ss

iTrader: (4)

when I did the drill mod I didnt have pressure right away. It took about 30 times of opening and closing the bleeder valve to get it just right. I would try the bleeder valve before the vacuum

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Master cylinder is relatively easy to get out...its getting it back in thats the hard part, since you can't see anything to line up the u-bolt into the holes.

How exactly did you bleed the system "through the quickconnect"? The proper method to bench bleed it is to open the quick connect fitting with something small (5.5mm socket works perfectly), stroke the master pushrod all the way inward, and then close the quickconnect and release the pushrod. Do that until there is no more air coming out.

Then you need to attach the system back on the car and bleed it through the bleeder screw so that the slave can be purged of any trapped air. The proper method for that is to push the clutch pedal to the floor, open the bleeder, let the fluid/air out, close the bleeder, and then pull the pedal back to the top of its travel and repeat. Do that until only fluid flows out of the bleeder, with no air at all. Also make sure to keep the master topped off, if you let it go dry you will need to start all over, from square one.

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

I did that part with the quick connect but didnt even know that I was supposed to then go through the bleeder valve(I didnt read the directions fully)..hopefully tomorrow will go alot smoother haha, I just hope all of this was worth it.

And for some reason my master cylinder wouldnt budge no matter what we tried, we tried prying from the engine bay to tapping from the inside. Then we knew something was up and decided that maybe we should give up 'cus it would be helllll to get her in if getting her out was being sucha pain.and we were right

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully this will help with pedal feel and if needed ill pay someone to install the tick peice next time, and with my luck it probally wont help haha

the hardest jobs are the ones where the instructions state "use your fingers as your eyes"

heavy6.0

iTrader: (69)

a mighty vac will help you a ton!

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

Ok so ill bleed the clutch the traditional way and ill also mighty vac just as back up...is that cup thing on a mighty vac supposed to be full?or empty

black00ssFL

iTrader: (24)

I tried the drill mod too..... I have a Tick Master on the way.

BTW the reason you had trouble getting the mc out is cause if the star lock on the U bolt.

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

Ive been trying to get pressure back into the clutch but it doesnt seem to be working!Im having someone press and hold the clutch while I open the valve and then I close it and he brings the pedal back up..weve done this a ton of times and nothings working

black00ssFL

iTrader: (24)

That's cause you're doing it wrong. Open bleeder, have friend push clutch pedal, close bleeder when he's to the floor and before he lets it back up.

CarlC

iTrader: (9)

Agreed.

Unless the bleeder is open during the downstroke there will be little to no fluid movement. Plus, let the pedal up slowly after the bleeder is closed. It took four strokes for mine with a drill mod'ed bench-bled MC/line and new T/O bearing.