input shaft
#1
input shaft
I installed an ls1 input shaft and front cover on my lt1 t56 the shim kit d&d sent has all the same size shims. with one shim the input shaft is tight no end play. without the shim its real sloppy side play and end play? Is no end play ok? I had a new bearing installed and it seems to be bottomed out on the shaft the same as the old one so I am not sure if i should go ahead and install.
#2
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I installed an ls1 input shaft and front cover on my lt1 t56 the shim kit d&d sent has all the same size shims. with one shim the input shaft is tight no end play. without the shim its real sloppy side play and end play? Is no end play ok? I had a new bearing installed and it seems to be bottomed out on the shaft the same as the old one so I am not sure if i should go ahead and install.
TICK and thesource are 2 members here on this board that know ALOT about the T56 and will be along shortly to help ya out.
#3
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The shim kit should come with 2 dozen+ various thickness shims for each of the input and the countershaft. You must measure the end-play with the trans front plate assembled, no shims under both races, and a dial gauge on the mainshaft and counter shaft with tailhousing removed. After you measure the end-play, add enough shims to get the desired (stock or performance) value.
You can't just wiggle the input and feel it out, and expect it to perform as desired..
You can't just wiggle the input and feel it out, and expect it to perform as desired..
#4
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The shim kit should come with 2 dozen+ various thickness shims for each of the input and the countershaft. You must measure the end-play with the trans front plate assembled, no shims under both races, and a dial gauge on the mainshaft and counter shaft with tailhousing removed. After you measure the end-play, add enough shims to get the desired (stock or performance) value.
You can't just wiggle the input and feel it out, and expect it to perform as desired..
You can't just wiggle the input and feel it out, and expect it to perform as desired..
Or, 85MikeTPI will come by and give you the info you need as well
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Actually I have done enough of them that I can usually "eye ball" the proper shim out of the pack and its right on the money . I like to set my units up with a little preload on the main shaft and just about zero on the cluster gear .
#7
i actually got my parts from gearbox not d&d. They told me to just set the endplay in the input shaft using a jig and a dial indicator. They mentioned nothing about the tail shaft. Also they told me I could just check how much play was in the old one and get this one close but I didnt feel that comfortable with that
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I did know thesource would be around shortly
On this topic, since I do have my midplate and input shaft off right now, and since I am going through the tranny:
What are the clearance/tolerance's for the tranny? I have teh PDF file on teh T56...are the clearances located in the manual? I mean, I am gonna go check, but was just wondering if you guys knew off the top of your head, if they were?
On this topic, since I do have my midplate and input shaft off right now, and since I am going through the tranny:
What are the clearance/tolerance's for the tranny? I have teh PDF file on teh T56...are the clearances located in the manual? I mean, I am gonna go check, but was just wondering if you guys knew off the top of your head, if they were?
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#10
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i actually got my parts from gearbox not d&d. They told me to just set the endplay in the input shaft using a jig and a dial indicator. They mentioned nothing about the tail shaft. Also they told me I could just check how much play was in the old one and get this one close but I didnt feel that comfortable with that
My $0.02
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I always start by using the factory shim . If it feels good , I leave it alone . If its too loose , I pull the front plate off and add a shim that I feel is correct . 9 times out of 10 , I never even use a dial indicator on them . By the time you break out the indicator , mock it up and reshim it ..... I'll have the unit finished and the customer will have it installed in the car .
Building a T56 is not rocket science . While end play is important , it is not required to be perfect by any means . I like to set my units up with about .010 load on the main shaft and zero on the cluster gear . On the T5's , I like to load both the cluster and the main shaft assemblies . It helps with cluster gear walk and case flexing .
I do the same thing with differentials , over the years after doing so many , I have developed a "feel" for them . Its something you learn hands on , not something you can read in a book or off TTC's website .