Building a quick little s10 as cheap as I can and figured a T5 would handle the power if shifted respectfully.

I can fab minor things. How easy is it to mate a T5 to a 5.3? I haven't been able to find a t56 for under $1k.

 

If you were to build a T5 with a 2.95 ratio and it was world class , it "might" hold the power in a light vehicle . Getting one done for under a $1K will be tough unless you build it yourself .

 

Well, I figure I would pretty much keep the 5.3 stock to keep most of the low end. I like torque. If I find its wasted then I may put a little bigger cam in and change to a ls1/ls6 intake. So the motor shouldn't make any more than 350hp. A friend of mine has gone through about 15 T5's in the past 7 years in his mustang, but he drives it like a race car and smacks the hell out of the shifts, and worst of all, downshifts the **** out of it. I have other vehicles to "beat", I won't be smacking shifts nor will it have sticky tires on it.

Now I've heard the mustang T-5s are stronger than the GM ones. Most mustangs and 305s made about 300 ft/lbs. Stock 5.3 makes about 325. There are plenty of guys running a T5 behind 350s as well, but drive nicely.

Of course the weakness is a factor, but if its a cheap enough install, its worth it to me.

I'm trying to figure out total cost of install.

 

youre better off with a T56. trying to use a T5 just doesnt make sense plus the effort into making one work is far and beyond the simplicity youll get from using a t56.

 

I'm looking for people that can actually tell me what it would involve so I can make a cost comparison, not theories.

I'm fully aware of the T5 and T56 capabilities.

 

There is a guy on the V8RX7forum that has a 5.3L/T5 combination in his second gen RX7. If you already have a GM T5 then its a relatively simple process. You will need a traditional BBC bellhousing which can accommodate a 14" flywheel. A GM T5 will already have the correct bearing retainer diameter and input shaft length. It will also have the 1 1/8x26 spline input shaft. You will need to use the LS7 style pilot bearing. If you want a hydraulic clutch setup, then you will have to get a hydraulic throw out bearing. Essentially it will be the same as mating a TKO, Richmond, or Muncie to an LSx engine. If you look at the link in my sig I mated a Richmond 6spd to an L92. The issues around using a T5 are the same.

Andrew

 

Sounds like good news. 14" flywheel being the standard sbc 168 tooth? Will it bolt right up to the crank?

So then a standard T5 clutch will work too correct? I'd like to use a cable for simplicity.

Ls7 pilot bearing, genius.

 

You just have to use the standard LSx style flywheel. Either LS1/s or LS2/7 and the respective clutches. Flywheels go with engines...clutches go with flywheels. So you would use an LSx flywheel and clutch, as long as the T5 is the GM style that has the 26 spline input shaft.

Andrew

 

You've been a big help. Without looking are there any lsx clutches that are cable operated? I would like to use a pretty weak clutch....

And will any bbc bellhousing work or are there only certain ones?

Thanks a lot, you're the guy I've been waiting to talk to.

 

Clutches don't care how you release them. There is no such thing as a cable clutch, hydraulic clutch, etc...It is just a clutch. How you release it depends largely on the vehicle that you are working with and personal preference. If your S10 had a manual transmission then I suspect it used a hydraulic clutch release system. So unless you want to rework your pedal it would be easiest to keep the hydraulic setup. Howe makes a hydraulic throw out bearing that works with T5s. You will need to confirm the diameter of the bearing retainer snout get the right bearing. Standard GM is 1.370" Fords are a little bigger.

http://www.howeracing.com/DriveTrain...w-HydStock.htm

SBC and BBC bellhousings have the same bolt pattern, but the BBC bellshousings had more rook to accommodate their larger flywheels. LSx flywheels are the same diameter at BBC flywheels. You can even use a Lakewood or other steel bellhousings, as long as the can accommodate a 14" flywheel.

Andrew

 

Then I guess my question is will a throwout bearing for a cable actuator work on a clutch that was meant for hydraulic.

 

Yes. What's the love affair with the cable? Does the S10 use a cable release?

Andrew

 

No, I don't have the S10 yet, but chances are its going to be an auto. I've just never been a fan of hydraulic clutches, especially GM's. Cable should be cheaper too.

The whole goal is to build a quick and reliable DD for cheap and keep things as simple as possible. That's just the goal for the project. I don't have much experience with stick trans.

If I do get an S10 with a hydraulic clutch, it would def be easier to stay hydraulic.

 

The T5 input shaft splines are the same as the LSx?

 

If it's a GM style T5 then yes.

Andrew

 

I'm looking for some info on this to, but I can add a little to this thread. I have never seen a RWD Gm vehicle with a cable operated clutch. The problems related with hydraulic clutchs in this thread probably relate to the common LS1 clutch hydraulic issues. These don't really exist in a standard master/ slave combo like an S-10 would have and would by far be the simplest swap. Also the GM T5 behind the V8s are 26 spline, the V6 RWD versions are 14 spline.

 

ive heard from the V6 crowd that the T5 is a pansy as far as gear strength. I've talked to many people that break gear after getting over 300hp with the V6. I've talked to one that broke 3rd on a basically stock V6... 3rd apparently is notorious for being ridiculously weak.

 

As has been stated earlier, you will want the stronger 2.95 gearset. The T5s that went in earlier S10s were NOT what will survive this install. Most GM T5s did NOT have a 26T input spline. I think 14T was common.You may be able to buy a disc that works, however. S10s used an external slave-style hydraulic release. If you are grafting a release system into your S10( you said it would likely be an auto) it would be far better to take an entire sysetm from a donor vehicle( preferably an S10). Cable releases are NOT a prefered way to go . They stretch ane constantly go out of adjustment as well as make noise and can have some pretty high efforts.Stick with a hydraulic release system.

 

T5s are weak. But, if you don't powershift, smack gears, and launch hard, they will last. In a light vehicle, with non-supersticky tires and 350hp or less, I think plenty of fun could be had with it.

I thought the camaro t5s were 26 spline?

As long as the tires are the weak link, I wouldn't have to upgrade the rear, driveshaft, u-joints. Let 'er out respectfully, and once its engaged, and all driveline slack is taken up, let 'er eat!

The truck wouldn't be a 60ft king, or even very good for a race. But it sure would put you in the seat and get great gas mileage. 300+ hp and 2800 lbs. It'd be as quick as a gutted mustang with a mild motor or an ls1 fbody with bolt ons. Not slow at all.

I've seen a good amount of T5s behind 350s.

 

Uhh yeah me too LOL!!! My dad's sbc 94 scsb s10. Probably only made like 300ish fwhp too.

Went through 4 of em. I toasted one on a 2-3 myself. One of them actually busted well after a clean soft shift in third at like 5k rpm. So easy shifting won't save your *** either.

Got sick of that and threw in a th400 and wow the truck was fun and faster because no more WORRYING ABOUT THE TRANSMISSION.

If you want to make it as cheap,fast, and reliable as possible you'll get the 4l60 out of the junkyard.

t-5 and 300lb ft = busted with ONE screw up.

And I do mean ONE. And possibly no screw ups it is that weak.


Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents you want to build what I've already done for the most part.