T56/9 in
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T56/9 in
I just did a swap and now my car shifts alot notchier.
Along with the swap I put in a tunnel brace mounted torque arm, and switched drive shaftswith a buddy until we could put the other u joints in the other drive shaft.
She shifts fine at wot and very slow shifts (the time it takes to push the clutch in twice and then shift) but notchy on regular driving.
Any idea why this is happening?
Along with the swap I put in a tunnel brace mounted torque arm, and switched drive shaftswith a buddy until we could put the other u joints in the other drive shaft.
She shifts fine at wot and very slow shifts (the time it takes to push the clutch in twice and then shift) but notchy on regular driving.
Any idea why this is happening?
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#9
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Did you check driveshaft length?We've had alot of cars that needed a shorter driveshaft because the 9" pinion was closer to the tranny than a stock rear. There tranny would get notchy because the shaft is bottomed out in the tranny.In extreme cases that could also take out the thrust bearing in the motor.
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ok i messed with it today and it seems I must have messed up with the pinion angle I got it set accurate at -2.5 it took the notchieness away at normal driving I havent driven her much yet but enough to know that normal driving she shifts better. It felt a little different on wot but not to sure yet but i guess I will have to make adjustments for racing. I'm new to this end of the car but it's interesting and I could only learn more.
I did check the drive shaft got a about an 1.5in of play. I guess I just did the adjusting wrong. oh well wont forget. thanks
oh and I just put -2.5 on the pinion the ds is 3.5
I did check the drive shaft got a about an 1.5in of play. I guess I just did the adjusting wrong. oh well wont forget. thanks
oh and I just put -2.5 on the pinion the ds is 3.5
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Maybe I am misunderstanding you here, but if not, you did that wrong.
Let's see if this works:
Place angle finder on bottom of driveshaft and write down the reading.
Remove driveshaft.
Rotate the pinion so that the ujoint caps on the yoke are pointing up and down.
Set the angle finder on the face of the yoke where the u-bolts go through. Sometimes the face of the yoke is not perfectly flat so I lay a socket lengthwise where the ujoint caps fit then put the angle finder on the socket.
Read the angle and write it down.
Determine the difference between these values then decide which way the pinion needs to be rotated to achieve the proper pinion angle
Let's see if this works:
Place angle finder on bottom of driveshaft and write down the reading.
Remove driveshaft.
Rotate the pinion so that the ujoint caps on the yoke are pointing up and down.
Set the angle finder on the face of the yoke where the u-bolts go through. Sometimes the face of the yoke is not perfectly flat so I lay a socket lengthwise where the ujoint caps fit then put the angle finder on the socket.
Read the angle and write it down.
Determine the difference between these values then decide which way the pinion needs to be rotated to achieve the proper pinion angle
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I meant it was getting better but since then and more driving it hasnt. I messed with it more today and i cant seem to fn figure it out. I let the car back down to check it and it was 5 on the drive shaft and -2.5 still on the torque arm wtf. how did the ds change? Im done with this until the week end its f annoying when you cant figure something out thats simple and im over looking something especialy when its my daily driver. Am I missing something? what do i have to loosen up to adjust the t/a? I'm taking the angle measurements like bmr and the sticky here says. I'm doing something wrong