Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

It seems that every person that offers a clutch for the LS-1 offers a flywheel of some sort. Is the stock flywheel that bad, or is it just something else to sell? I understand the weight savings aspect, but for 1/4 mile racing, a lighter flywheel isn't always better. It seemed no one offered flywheels for the LT-1, and everyone was content with the stock unit. Just wondered how the demand got so high for so many people to start offering them.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Stock flywheels are fine. I ran mine resurfaced about 5 times, no biggie. I don't buy into the 500 dollar Alum. flywheel BS, waste of money.


josh

z98

You got it when you said for drag racing a lightweight flywheel isn't all that great.

But some of us do more than drag race our cars

black_z

iTrader: (4)

About how much does it cost to have a stock flywheel resurfaced?

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Local shop here charges $35 to resurface front and resurface the mounting side where it bolt to the crank. I just wanted to make sure the stock flywheel wasn't junk.

black_z

iTrader: (4)

Why would anyone even buy an aftermarket steel one then, if the stocker is usually fine to be resurfaced.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Alum. flywheels are good for dyno queens and Auto-X'ers. Other than that, a steel stocker is fine.

Some shops claim that you need a billet steel flywheel for some disks, but I ran the roughest disk material that RAM had to offer on my stock flywheel with no problems.

Josh

Stick only

DON'T let them resurface the crank flange! This may cause the flywheel to runout and be out of balance on reinstall. The flywheel should be located on the crank flange when it is surfaced to insure minimum runout.

z98

How about highway racers?

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

I'm not quite sure I catch your drift. I don't see how lightly surfacing the mating side of the flywheel could hurt. I would assume if you resurface to level on the front, you would want the same on the back? Or are you refuring to the actual crank itself? Just not catching what you mean by runout.

97M6Formula

iTrader: (6)

I thought only the lt1s were externally balanced?

Stick only

The surfacing method is my main concern. The proper way to surface the flywheel is to grind it parallel to the crank flange. If the flywheel is located on this flange when it is ground, it will be parallel to that flange, and thus when bolted back to the engine will not run out. Runout is checked by putting a dial indicator on the face of the flywheel and rotating the flywheel to make sure you are within about .003". If the flywheel runs out excessively, the clutch will in effect 'wobble' which could cause imbalance or erratic release.

If the flywheel were, say, cut in a lathe, its highly likely that a parallel surface will not be attained, and cutting the crank side of the flywheel flange could amplify the problem. My main point is, find a reputable place to grind the flywheel using the proper surface grinding machine and cutting the flange will not be necessary...

The other issue on changing to aftermarket flywheels is safety. I personally would not care if one of our customers used the stock flywheel, but would NEVER recommend it. Using a pressure plate other than the factory metric pattern/drive pins, the clutch cannot properly locate unless it is redrilled for the aftermarket unit. Steel is best for drag/street apps, aluminum for road race, autocross, or apps where you want to use the engine as a brake. MOST aftermarket flywheels are SFI approved, meaning explosion resistant, which is a good cushion of safety on our cars that do not have a scattershield available...