Why so many flywheels?
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From: Shreveport, LA
Why so many flywheels? It seems that every person that offers a clutch for the LS-1 offers a flywheel of some sort. Is the stock flywheel that bad, or is it just something else to sell? I understand the weight savings aspect, but for 1/4 mile racing, a lighter flywheel isn't always better. It seemed no one offered flywheels for the LT-1, and everyone was content with the stock unit. Just wondered how the demand got so high for so many people to start offering them.
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From: Shreveport, LA
Originally Posted by black_z
About how much does it cost to have a stock flywheel resurfaced?
Alum. flywheels are good for dyno queens and Auto-X'ers. Other than that, a steel stocker is fine.
Some shops claim that you need a billet steel flywheel for some disks, but I ran the roughest disk material that RAM had to offer on my stock flywheel with no problems.
Josh
Some shops claim that you need a billet steel flywheel for some disks, but I ran the roughest disk material that RAM had to offer on my stock flywheel with no problems.
Josh
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FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: columbia, sc
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Local shop here charges $35 to resurface front and resurface the mounting side where it bolt to the crank. I just wanted to make sure the stock flywheel wasn't junk.
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From: Shreveport, LA
Originally Posted by Stick only
DON'T let them resurface the crank flange! This may cause the flywheel to runout and be out of balance on reinstall. The flywheel should be located on the crank flange when it is surfaced to insure minimum runout.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: columbia, sc
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
I'm not quite sure I catch your drift. I don't see how lightly surfacing the mating side of the flywheel could hurt. I would assume if you resurface to level on the front, you would want the same on the back? Or are you refuring to the actual crank itself? Just not catching what you mean by runout.
If the flywheel were, say, cut in a lathe, its highly likely that a parallel surface will not be attained, and cutting the crank side of the flywheel flange could amplify the problem. My main point is, find a reputable place to grind the flywheel using the proper surface grinding machine and cutting the flange will not be necessary...
The other issue on changing to aftermarket flywheels is safety. I personally would not care if one of our customers used the stock flywheel, but would NEVER recommend it. Using a pressure plate other than the factory metric pattern/drive pins, the clutch cannot properly locate unless it is redrilled for the aftermarket unit. Steel is best for drag/street apps, aluminum for road race, autocross, or apps where you want to use the engine as a brake. MOST aftermarket flywheels are SFI approved, meaning explosion resistant, which is a good cushion of safety on our cars that do not have a scattershield available...
