Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

stock pulley, original owner never changed it either..

didint think of pulling the plugs, good idea,, thank you. I guess i should run my ses light (i always have one, p0480, fan relays, dont ask, cause i cant solve that one either) to be sure its my only my one normal code. ()
I did change my plugs probably early last spring.... kinda the same time i started my rear project...so thats worth a look.

ive never done a leak down test b4, but im sure i can find some info on here somewhere.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

just to give anyone that has helped/looked an update, i will be starting a new thread (to condense down the info to give us a fresh start to my old issue) once i get back from my motocross show in Redbud Michigan this weekend (July 4th weekend)

i will try to have all the possibles listed, and am hoping to grow some brass ones to get the car on some stands and start and rev the car to the 1800 rpm mark to hopfully see something, if its coming from down there anyways.. (can a misfire really make her do this) im a newbie, and this car of mine has been very educational in the art of troubleshooting

i want to thank you all for the great suggestions, and as always, keep em comin.

Wayne the Vibration King (he-he)

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

UPDATE: 8/27/2009

After having a unrelated issue fixed by Eric at Midwest Chassis and Performance (he rebuilt my grinding while turning posi), he did verify that my 30000 mile clutch is at fault for my vibration issue. (Eric is a hell of a guy, and recently my hero) Once i get the $ together for a clutch swap (hopfully during the 2009 winter season) i will be posting up the "Im finally vibration free" ending to this old thread. Wish me luck on my first clutch swap, and thanx for all your help to those that offered it!!!

Wayne

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Good to hear. Mine is doing the exact same thing at 1800 rpm (but ONLY at 1800 and then goes away) and my Spec 3 has about 25k miles on it.

Looking at the Monsters, but I really liked that Tex I had...and they look the same from the pics actually...both made in Texas..hmm...

Do you have a poly trans mount?

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

nope, runnin the stocker.

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

did you ever get a new clutch? Did it fix the problem?

tvrbo

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=99ssleeper;12136866]Good to hear. Mine is doing the exact same thing at 1800 rpm (but ONLY at 1800 and then goes away) and my Spec 3 has about 25k miles on it.[QUOTE]

I'm also experiencing this, at about 2800 though. Did you solve this by clutch replacement?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I always appreciate feedback and information...but if there was no vibration after the clutch was initially installed there is little likelyhood that it is clutch related. Nothing relative to clutch function is going to check balance. You mention that the shop verified that the clutch as the issue. How exactly did he do this? Did he spin the parts on a dynamic clutch-balancer?

Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

i have the exact friggin problem w/ my C5 right after my install of a Spec 3+ & SLP steel flywheel its at 2000rpms and goes away but i'm sure the vibes are still there. This clutch has about 20 miles not 20k miles. I had a disengagement issue so i ordered Tick adj MC and that fixed that but vibes were still there. So i knew it had to be the clutch so the vibes weren't there before so i removed everything again and sent it all to Speed inc and Larry balanced it and it was 14 grams off but i just got it back and haven't installed it all again but i will and let you all know. Truthfully after seeing what they did to balance it i don't believe it will fix anything at all, so then what do i do.......

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

Why don't you think it will work? Try running it just on the flywheel to see if the vibes are there. If they are gone, add the disc and PP and see if they are still gone. No sense it putting all back together to find out that it still vibrates and this way you can eliminate the clutch assembly as a vibe source.

Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

as bad as the vibes were i just figure 14 grams was very little to correct it, i really hope it'll fix it.
This may be a dumb question but how do i fire up the car without all the drivetrain back in? i mean there are alot of sensors to be plugged back in that i'm sure the car will get pissed off when i fire it up, and also if i don't reinstall the all the exhaust 2 O2 sensors wouldn't be functioning....... i do like that idea though that way i can't 100% eliminate the problem or at least know exactly what is out of balance.... let me know what you think

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

You really only need your front O2 sensors. All you have to do is make sure the flywheel is on, either manually push the clutch safety switch or push the one way valve in on the master cylinder line (part that goes into the tranny) and have someone else push and hold the clutch to the floor. Then fire it up. Make sure the car is supported and stable though.

P.S. 14 grams is a significant amount when you're spinning at 6000 rpm.

Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

yep thats cool, i think i will do that. I'll install the balanced flywheel/PP soon and if it vibrates i'm gonna kill myself lol
I'll let you know. Thanks!

silver6speed

I had the same prob with my z , centerforce df pucks came apart !

tvrbo

iTrader: (2)

i have that clutch and i think those weights are my issue too. Pulling the trans tonight and checking it out, will post my findings later.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

still vibing,,, i think my flywheel is the culprit as my clutch works fine,, /spec 3, now almost 40 thousand miles,,,,, im going to pull the tranny sometime this late summer, early fall to finally figure out if its the reason or not,,, i can now feel a pulsing in my clutch pedal when i push it down...

Wildponcho

I too have this problem, I just bought a 2002 ws6 t/a, 418 eagle bottom end, Centerforce clutch, Vibration changes with engine speed. Previous owner thought it was a wheel, but happens sitting still, clutch in or out. This thread has been very insightful. I too think it could be in the clutch flywheel area, I recieved all the paperwork for the engine balancing. So got my fingers crossed it is not the engine. Did anyone ever figure out their issues? The engine has no noises, great oil pressure and tons of power. All work done 2300 miles ago. Gonna dig into it in a week or so after the holidays.

BALLSS

you have a new "bottom end"..quite possible the motor is now "internal" balanced which means the FW and PP need to be "neutral" aka zero balanced also...or you motor will shake like a dog shiating razor blades

M1SERY

i had the same issue in mine , i noticed vibration at same rpm, mine vibrated with the clutch pushed in , after changing mounts still had it , after exhausting countless hours chasing and reading , i started pulling belts off the front of the motor, and when i pulled the belt off the ac the vibration went away,

mine was a little tricky mine got worse after trans rebuild. i had put a different front yoke on my drive shaft so where the ac left off the drive shaft inbalance would pick up. also if you put an red poly trans mount on yours you my want to take out the steel spacer, i found that mine with the steel spacer raised everything enough to make the exhaust rub the bottom of the car and when i found it just bout rub through the brake line

good luck,
hope it helps

and this may help if it is the ac u may notice it dont vibrate at wide open throttle the compressor is suppose to kick out at WOT ,so in others words you would not feel vibration at wot , but just easing around tring to diagnose the problem u would.