WEll, it being the 4th of July i cant call them, and my tranny is still awaiting parts for another rebuild. I got the tick master yesterday and thought what the hell i will just get it put in now, one less thing to do when i get the tranny done. Install was easy no issues. I decided to attach the rod and heim joint to the pedal. Now the directions say to start at the lowest point of adjustment, so i have the rod and joint threaded all the way down. When i hooked it to the pedal it is just about to the floor. Is that normal. The instructions say it might be halfway down its travel, but it is really maybe less than an inch from the floorboard. Granted i dont have the tranny in yet and cant do any adjustments yet, but this just doesnt seem right to me.

 

Thats how mine was. What i did was i adjusted it out so there would be a little travel in the pedal, then started the car and tried to put it in gear. Basically following the instructions. But your right it is a bit wierd.

 

at least i am not the only one. HOw high does your pedal sit after you got it bled?? I would think it would be weird having the clutch halfway down in the travel when it is bled.

 

I have heard that on the Tick MC that most of the time, you need to adjust pretty much all teh way out to get the pedal up where it would be "normal" on a stock setup. Are you saying you have it all the way out, or in? If in, obviously screw it out some more. But, from sounds of it, you are saying you already have it all teh way out, and pedal is still low, right?
Is MC mounted flush with firewall? Not in a bind, and crooked? Or anything like that?

 

ya, mine was like that too... well I was sure it was going to be so I just started from half way up and could tell right away that it needed more travel because it wouldn't go into gear easily like it should. no brainer... you will see easily enough once your trans is back in.

 

Mine is just a little bit lower than my brake pedal. But at the moment its not shifting smoothly into gear. Its like its catching a little. Ill need to adjust it out when its not pissing rain.

 

master is mounted fine, it is adjusted all the way in now. The directions stated to start with it all the way in and i was just wondering if anybody elses pedal was almost to the floor when they started. I know it will need to be adjusted way, way out. Hopefully i can have the tranny done and back in early next week. I am curious how the master will work, i never really had any issues with the stocker.

 

OK, well when you get it adjusted out some, your pedal will back to normal then. They PROBALY tell you to start with it all the way in, JUST as a starting point, and that way, you keep adjusting out, until you get the pedal to where you want it.

 

precisely

 

that is kinda what i was thinking, they wanted with starting so low. Shouldnt have any chance of overextending it that way.

 

i just installed my Tick master this week-end. I have about 1/3rd less pedal travel than before. I removed the spring on the pedal like the instructions said. I started with the shorted adjustment possible on the turnbuckle and as I adjusted the turnbuckle out the pedal moved out. I ended up with the clutch pedal even or slightly lower than the brake pedal. Pedal feels real firm and as I said I lost about 1/3rd of the pedal travel up top.
The real pain was trying to install the remote bleeder line. I had the car on a lift and was able to remove the oem bleeder valve but I think that was a mistake as there was NO WAY I could get the little fitting from the remote bleeder back in the slave. I couldn't even get the origional bleeder valve back in so I ended up doing the drill mod to the floor board and now I have an access hole so I don't even need a remote bleeder line.

 

Mine was an original (proto-type) and we did fine with the clutch pedal a little lower, but then we need to adj it out to the max.

 

i havent removed the return spring yet. I might once i get the tranny back in.

 

i got the tranny back in and the master bleed today, feaking wow. I cant belive how good the pedal feels. A little heavy, but damn good. Now i will have to give power shifting a try. I still have to mess with the adjustment a little. It is just a shade lower than my brake pedal now though and it feels good. I did see that i forgot to remove the factory return spring, is removing that really a big deal?? Awesome job Tick.

 

Well finally got to drive the car this weekend and clutck feels great with Tick M/C. I can power shift now without any pedal fade. I did get an SES light after driving about 50 miles. It seemd that the clutch pedal arm was not engauging the switch that keeps the car from starting when the clutch is not pushed in. In other words the car would start without pushing in the clutch pedal. Popped the switch out and adjusted and now works great. My question is will the SES light go out on it's own after a few cycles or will I have to get it turned off?....Tick, you should include this switch adjustment in the instructions.

 

I haven't seen an ses code from this...but a few people have called wondering why their cruise control stopped working. Either way its a simple thing to adjust and we should add it to our instructions. The switch that keeps the car from starting is the lower switch.

rpmauto, thanks for the positive feedback! I would go ahead and remove that spring just so there isn't any issues with the way the pedal returns. About 30 seconds with a long flathead screwdriver and it will pop right out.

 

OOps, my bad. The switch that I adjusted was the one for the cruse control.

Thanks Jonathan