shifting issues after 9in. install..
#21
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ok guys... after a lengthy discussion with the tech at moser iv found the salution.... dont buy a locker with a 6 speed or manual trans. car... basically what slowhawk and dave mentioned earlier is 100% correct... the locker unloads too much when load is released ie: press the clutch. It is in fact like trying to shift with no load on the trans.! in turn, will destroy youre transmission in time.... wonderful huh? wish there was some kind of warning saying "dont use this in a manual car" ! for the ones that have the locker and 6 speed combo, including me... were basically fucked unless you get a heavy enough driveshaft that will keep the inertia spinning when the clutch is pressed or unless you have youre tranny faceplated like dave... only other option is to go auto, or buy a true track.. im pissed! all that work and money just to tear my built tranny up! sorry for the bad news guys but again, slowhawk and dave had it right on the money.. wish i would of known then, what i know now!
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well, after talking with bob at exotic performance i feel a lil relief about this whole situation.. hes gonna do what he can to get me out of this bind. were looking at going with the new "wavetrak" posi unit that moser just put out becuase the truetrak will not accept my 35 spline axles and the new wavetrak will and is supposed to be able to handle much more power.. of course it will probly cost me some out of pocket $ but is ok with me if it means not destroying my built trans. if you guys havnt dealt with EP before, i will assure you that their customer service is the finest out there! IV probly spent close to 6 grand there and any/every issue iv ever had with my build, bob and his team have been there for me and made every attempt to make it right even when most of the issues were becuase of my own dumbass faults! lmao cant say enough about the guy! you guys with the lockers and 6 speeds, if youre **** aint shifting right since the swap, id look into selling it to an auto guy and getting the posi.
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Yeah you should always research stuff before you buy. There are a bunch of people on here with M6's and lockers and this has been discussed before. I dont really even notice mine anymore unless I'm parking. As for it killing your "built trans" I wouldnt be so worried, I've had mine for over 5k miles on my bone stock 90k mile trans and it still shifts like butter (kinda)
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Hey Zman, good chat with ya today. That is why I like talking on th phone instead of the net. After talking with you, and you explaining your problem (as opposed to reading it in a thread) I got 2 different idea's of what you were talking about
. Maybe it's my reading skills!![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
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#28
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LOL gen414! you have plenty of time to get those retards at the sticker company to get it worked out..
Looks like I wont be heading to the track anytime soon after all. Gonna start taking that locker out and get the money together for that wavetrac.. Go figure that I would get layed off when I was so close to finishing my car!
unemplyment will barely pay for my house, much less get me a different rear end,clutch,driveshaft.. But owell, **** happens.. Anyone need a machinist or mechanic??
lmao
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LOL gen414! you have plenty of time to get those retards at the sticker company to get it worked out..
Looks like I wont be heading to the track anytime soon after all. Gonna start taking that locker out and get the money together for that wavetrac.. Go figure that I would get layed off when I was so close to finishing my car!
unemplyment will barely pay for my house, much less get me a different rear end,clutch,driveshaft.. But owell, **** happens.. Anyone need a machinist or mechanic??
lmao
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yeah, I just finished up the nitrous install on that Formula (beautiful car
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I am no expert but in my case, I replaced with Ls7 clutch, flywheel, throw-out /slave, pilot, rebuild transmission, lowered, and it shifted perfectly. Like butter! Then I put on the Moser 12 bolt w/true track, sway bar and shocks now I have the same notchy shifting issue. I feel like the drive-shaft is further away from the tail shaft then before. My only guess or process of elimination would be the drive shaft length. If you measure from the trans output seal to the center of the rear u-joint, you can have your drive-shaft resized. It will cost under $200 and will include the balancing as well. I am measuring mine on friday and taking it to be resized... I will let you know my results as soon as I get it done. I really hope for all of us, that it is the missing link to our puzzle... cross your fingers
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Got a custom driveshaft made!! Decided to go steel in preparation for big power.... anyways... Shifting still sucks... still notchy!!! I hope some one finds a cure because it really takes a lot of the fun out of driving my car
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