I have done enough searching to think that either my master cylinder or my slave is shot but I just can't get a clear idea of which is more likely the problem.

Here's the problem my clutch pedal is stuck to the floor at all times. I can manually move it back up but if you put pressure on it it will just fall back to the floor. I have bled the system and it wasn't effected at all. I can't put the car into any gear but it will start with clutch pressed and run in neutral. I'm guessing that's just because of a safety sensor or something but it always gives me hope the clutch is still engaging.

I now plan to look into the master then move onto the slave but if anyone has a definitive idea about what is wrong it would make me feel a lot better. Would hate to replace master just to find its the slave. I'll probably try to take these projects on myself which should be fun lol. As of now oil, brakes, and air filters is about as far as I've gone before. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I would say that it sounds like the slave cylinder is bad but if it has absolutely no pedal at all and falls back to the floor then it is probably something else. I'll just tell you my experience. When my factory 2000 slave went out (the upgraded slave is 01+), the pedal would stick to the floor when shifting at high rpms. But, I could pull the pedal back up with my foot and pedal pressure would return to normal. So not exactly like yours.

Now, I recently bled my clutch after changing everything the clutch. We pumped the clutch pedal keeping pressure on the pedal, opened the valve, and pushed the pedal to the floor. We then closed the bleeder valve, or so we thought, and started pumping again. The pedal went straight to the floor and would not regain pressure for anything. What happened was when we started pumping the pedal with the bleeder valve open, it sucked in so much air that I don't think hours of bleeding would do anything. We had a compressor so we just took it down to ten lbs and forced it out the top with the bleeder valve open. Pedal came back immediately. We then did two more rounds of manually clutch bleeding by pumping the clutch and made sure we fully closed the bleeder valve this time. Came out perfect. Took five minutes using the compressor.

Now, if your pedal went to the floor and stayed there just by driving around and not changing the clutch like in my experience, I would say replace the slave to start. If it's still doing it then its definitely the master. If your slave is the factory year 2000 version, you need to change it out regardless so if it doens't fix it, don't worry, it needed to be done anyway. And I would not bother putting in a factory non-adjustable master cylinder. Get an aftermarket unit with better, larger hydraulics that can move more fluid for better high rpm shifting. The factory master is fine for street driving but not when you're getting on it.

 

Thank you that is what I was afraid of. I'll probably end up just saving and try doing a m/c,slave, and clutch install lol. I figure whats the worst that can happen the poor TA isn't moving anywhere as she sits right now anyway.

 

I don't know of any car that is even slightly fast running on factory hydraulics. Replace them and don't look back. I did a Mcleod adj master but alot of people like the Tick. The problem is the Tick doesn't seal against the firewall and lets in wind noise. That would drive me crazy.

 

There is no "cheap" way to diagnose a bad MC or slave. Really only option (when in doubt) is to replace teh MC first (since it is teh easiest to change), if it fixes it, great, if not, then move to teh slave.

Now, if you see or have fluid loss at one of the locations, then obviously that can help you diagnose it.

Other than that, you would need to pull them off, and find some place that has a way of checking pressure/volume of each (good luck with that) to determine which is faulty...and by the time you do that (if you are successful), you probaly spent more time and money than going ahead and buying new one's.

 

Anyone have any opinions on the ram adjustable m/c? At the price it seems worth a shot but does it include all the hardware? I just don't see how it's half the price of the others and just as good lol.

 

i had the same problem and i replaced to mc and it solved the problem

 

Thanks you guys for your help. I'll be replacing the master with a ram as soon as I find time away from work in the next few weeks. Would grab a Tick but afraid I'll need a slave or worst after replacing the m/c. With the Ram m/c and a new slave would run about the same as just a tick. I really hope I don't end up regretting this decision though, I haven't really heard much about the Ram and everyone raves about the Tick.