Monster Clutch.. Short Pedal??
#1
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Monster Clutch.. Short Pedal??
Finshed installing my Stage 3 Monster clutch last night..
The pedal throw seems shorter than the stock clutch. Is this right??
So far I like it.. Catches real low kind if hard to get used to.
I got the lightweight flywheel and VERY glad I did...
The pedal throw seems shorter than the stock clutch. Is this right??
So far I like it.. Catches real low kind if hard to get used to.
I got the lightweight flywheel and VERY glad I did...
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It sounds like you are having a hydraulic issue, these cars are real funny
with the hydraulics. If you still have the original master cylinder, chances are that is why your pedal is low.
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with the hydraulics. If you still have the original master cylinder, chances are that is why your pedal is low.
.
#5
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Yeah, could be couple different things, your MC being one of them. You get your hydraulics bled correctly and fully? When you get the extra $$$, just because the the stock MC is crap, and to take full advantage of your Monster, you might want to step into a Adj MC.
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I might be able to shine a little light on your situation. I have spent the last 3 days trying to fool with my car and hydraulics. I put in a monster stage 3 and like you, I drove my car over to my friends house and all hydraulics worked fine that morning. Well after install the pedal was super soft and just couldnt get the right pressure. I ended up pulling the line from the master to the slave off the slave, you can then try to press the clutch down lightly, mine was stiff as a rock which told me the master was fine.
I ended up getting a new slave and pressure was better but still not right. So finally yesterday we modified the resevoir cap and drilled out the breather hole just a little bit. Then we got an adapter to fit on an air compresser nozzle that was a cone shape and stuck the small end into the cap on the reservoir. Then open the bleeder on the slave and we put some pressure to it pushing the fluid through. We went through 3 reservoir tanks full and went out to test it. Everything worked like clockwork after that, and just fyi my pedal is still very soft but the clutch is operating normally. Just something to try if you think your having issues.
I ended up getting a new slave and pressure was better but still not right. So finally yesterday we modified the resevoir cap and drilled out the breather hole just a little bit. Then we got an adapter to fit on an air compresser nozzle that was a cone shape and stuck the small end into the cap on the reservoir. Then open the bleeder on the slave and we put some pressure to it pushing the fluid through. We went through 3 reservoir tanks full and went out to test it. Everything worked like clockwork after that, and just fyi my pedal is still very soft but the clutch is operating normally. Just something to try if you think your having issues.
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Just because you pull the master-line from the slave and get a stiff pedal doesn't mean the master will have enough pressure when the line is connected.
The stock hydraulics are only good for a stock LS1 LS6 clutch, anything above that, the stock master cannot keep up, not even with LS7 clutches
let alone a Monster Stage 3.
You put in one of the best trick hi-po clutches available with many~many satisfied customers. The cure for the soft peddle blues is a Tick Master.
Those push way more fluid than the stock master, plus they are adjustable.
.
The stock hydraulics are only good for a stock LS1 LS6 clutch, anything above that, the stock master cannot keep up, not even with LS7 clutches
let alone a Monster Stage 3.
You put in one of the best trick hi-po clutches available with many~many satisfied customers. The cure for the soft peddle blues is a Tick Master.
Those push way more fluid than the stock master, plus they are adjustable.
.
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#9
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Just because you pull the master-line from the slave and get a stiff pedal doesn't mean the master will have enough pressure when the line is connected.
The stock hydraulics are only good for a stock LS1 LS6 clutch, anything above that, the stock master cannot keep up, not even with LS7 clutches
let alone a Monster Stage 3.
You put in one of the best trick hi-po clutches available with many~many satisfied customers. The cure for the soft peddle blues is a Tick Master.
Those push way more fluid than the stock master, plus they are adjustable.
.
The stock hydraulics are only good for a stock LS1 LS6 clutch, anything above that, the stock master cannot keep up, not even with LS7 clutches
let alone a Monster Stage 3.
You put in one of the best trick hi-po clutches available with many~many satisfied customers. The cure for the soft peddle blues is a Tick Master.
Those push way more fluid than the stock master, plus they are adjustable.
.
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Yes the master should be able to keep up, i have the drill mod done and many other numerous cars on this forum can use an OEM master with aftermarket clutches. You shouldnt "have" to spend another 300 or more for an adjustable master or make your stock one adjustable. I ran a spec 3 in my car for 2 years, banging gears with a much stiffer pedal and had no problems with any of my hydraulics along with many other people for that matter. I'm just providing something that worked for me and just ended up being air that was hard as hell to get out.
The master should be able to keep up but it doesn't...
Understand that GM upgraded the stock hydraulics for 2001+ F-bodies because 2001+ F-bodies were equipped with a stiffer C5 Z06 clutch.
A new stock GM replacement clutch will not usually work on a pre-2001 F-body. It requires the upgrade of all the hydraulics.
With that said ... those hydraulics were designed for a stock GM replacement clutch. Anything other than that is beyond what the stock hydraulics can truly handle.
I guess we all know more than GM and other drivetrain engineers.
Drill mod ? ok... You're still limited by the amount of fluid and pressure a stock m/c can provide.
If you don't want to go with a Tick, try a brandnew pre-bled GM m/c.
Regardless of what you say, I can almost guarantee the problem
is in your m/c. I can't remember how many times I've seen and heard about the hydraulics working fine until a new clutch is installed and than they no longer function properly.
Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to help.
.
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understandable and I forgot to mention i got the upgraded m/c for the 01-02 cars and have had that in. In that case if he is still on the stocker that could very well be the issue. I still had his similar problems with the upgraded master and just ended up being air
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Those are good points on all fronts.
These hydraulics can be a little strange at times.
I put in new hydraulics with a new GM LS6 clutch and than later a Spec 1.
It worked good until I installed an LS7 clutch. I had the lower pedal travel after that. I tried bleeding and couldn't get it right.
I decided to try a Tick and that solved my problem. It's been about 2K since than. I know it's pricey but I'm glad I made the investment. I love it, my car has never shifted so well.
I'm not a Tick or Monster salesman, I just think they make good products for our cars.
.
These hydraulics can be a little strange at times.
I put in new hydraulics with a new GM LS6 clutch and than later a Spec 1.
It worked good until I installed an LS7 clutch. I had the lower pedal travel after that. I tried bleeding and couldn't get it right.
I decided to try a Tick and that solved my problem. It's been about 2K since than. I know it's pricey but I'm glad I made the investment. I love it, my car has never shifted so well.
I'm not a Tick or Monster salesman, I just think they make good products for our cars.
.
#13
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You guys (bearcatt and miller456) both make good points, and I am sure the drill mod has helped many when they had problems banging gears withthe stock MC.....
BUT, I agree with bearcatt in that the TICK MC is a superior product over the stock MC (even one with teh drill mod performed), as teh TICK is DESIGNED for performance, while the STOCK MC is one that is designed for exactly that, a STOCK setup. You start asking it to do what it was not designed to (disengage a HD PP) you are gonna have problems with it.
Again, teh stock MC with the drill mod will help, but is not a replacement for a TICK (or teh like) MC.
BUT, I agree with bearcatt in that the TICK MC is a superior product over the stock MC (even one with teh drill mod performed), as teh TICK is DESIGNED for performance, while the STOCK MC is one that is designed for exactly that, a STOCK setup. You start asking it to do what it was not designed to (disengage a HD PP) you are gonna have problems with it.
Again, teh stock MC with the drill mod will help, but is not a replacement for a TICK (or teh like) MC.
#14
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You guys (bearcatt and miller456) both make good points, and I am sure the drill mod has helped many when they had problems banging gears withthe stock MC.....
BUT, I agree with bearcatt in that the TICK MC is a superior product over the stock MC (even one with teh drill mod performed), as teh TICK is DESIGNED for performance, while the STOCK MC is one that is designed for exactly that, a STOCK setup. You start asking it to do what it was not designed to (disengage a HD PP) you are gonna have problems with it.
Again, teh stock MC with the drill mod will help, but is not a replacement for a TICK (or teh like) MC.
BUT, I agree with bearcatt in that the TICK MC is a superior product over the stock MC (even one with teh drill mod performed), as teh TICK is DESIGNED for performance, while the STOCK MC is one that is designed for exactly that, a STOCK setup. You start asking it to do what it was not designed to (disengage a HD PP) you are gonna have problems with it.
Again, teh stock MC with the drill mod will help, but is not a replacement for a TICK (or teh like) MC.
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yes it should be slightly stiffer than stock, however mine is def. not. I spoke with steve for a long time on my issue and he stated on paper its supposed to be stiffer than stock but its not un heard of to have a softer pedal.
#17
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Many people say they cannot tell the difference in our pedal feel and stock, others say it is stiffer. On "paper" it is 8% stiffer.
It sounds to me like you are genuinely having hydraulic issues. More than likely there is an air pocket in line that you are not getting out. This is precisely why I purchased a $300 pressure bleeder that pushes the fluid out and recirculates clean fluid in at the same time. This makes bleeding any car a 10 minute job and guarantees no air in the system.
My advice to you is to check for leaks and find a shop that uses a pressure bleeder. The Level 3 should engage about mid way through the peddle travel and be slightly stiffer than the stock setup.
It sounds to me like you are genuinely having hydraulic issues. More than likely there is an air pocket in line that you are not getting out. This is precisely why I purchased a $300 pressure bleeder that pushes the fluid out and recirculates clean fluid in at the same time. This makes bleeding any car a 10 minute job and guarantees no air in the system.
My advice to you is to check for leaks and find a shop that uses a pressure bleeder. The Level 3 should engage about mid way through the peddle travel and be slightly stiffer than the stock setup.
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Oh, I know you were, and that is why i said that you had good points, and I know you weren't arguing about the stock vs tick either.
I too, was just putting in my .02 is all.
That is why I said that the stock MC with teh drill mod HAS it's place, and HAS helped many in a bind (ie, no $$$$), but in the end, it is still a stock MC.
But again, I agree with you.